Traxda 202020 2" Front/2" Rear Lift Kit

I bought this kit and was a little intimidated to install it myself.. but I got it done in about 7 hours total. The instructions are crap if because they don't show pictures and use interchangeable terms.Things you will need. A floor jack with blocks, a jack stand or two. An impact wrench (i bought a $70 cheap electric), a good breaker bar (unless you have a good impact), Sockets: a 1.5 inch socket for hub nut, 1", 7/8" 11/16", 9/16" 10mm, 1/2". Open end Wrench 11/16" and allen wrench for the new bolt on the arm link. You will need a couple extensions to make the job easier. The rag for the hub boot. Torque wrench (if you don't have one that goes up to 250 for the hub nut, when you bring it in for an alignment ask that they torque them down. Mean while use your breaker bar as much as you can tighten them since getting it to 250 will take a lot. (Honda suggests new nuts every time they are removes.)The part that had me worried was that i was going to have to buy and put coil spring compressors on in order to spin the "strut base. However, you can either vise the bottom and twist the top of the strut or do it while it is still attached to the hub assembly.On the passenger side the plastic under the hood lifts up easily to get the bolts restarted on the new hub bolts when you are putting the strut back on. On the driver side I use a magnet to reach through the access holes in order to get the bolts started.. then used a 9 inch extension to tighten them down.The lower arm link bold on my old one would not come off on the driver side, the nut stripped out.. and I had to cut them off and it was tough to get to but The way the stabilizer bar moves easily so you can get a socket back to it.. is to have both tires off the ground. If i had a right angle impact socket it would have been sooo much easier.The back was the easiest to install.First take the bottom nut of the link bar.Removing the strut take the bottom of the strut out of the swing arm first and the strut will drop out the bottom easier.When putting the struts back in.. bolt and tighten the spacer to the frame first.Then put the top of the strut in the hole first. Loosely get the bolts of the strut to the spacer started.Attach the strut to the swing arm then tighten the top of the strut to the spacer.Attach the link rod back to the swing arm.Then attach the swing arm back to the hub bolt ( I used the jack to lift it up till the holes lines up).When you lower the vehicle down go and crawl under to tighten the link arms up. The tires will look like they are messed up.. But drive it around a little and everything will even out. My alignment was not horrible afterwards but a paid a lot of attention when I was spinning the strut base on the front, but i will want to get it in here soon and not drive a lot.The way this system works it makes your tires sit a little bit further in so you lose some wheel base and I think I'm going to buy some wheel spacers to put them back out the half an inch or so. The ride is a little changed as that the truck wobbles more when hitting big bumps, but I think this will be improved with the wheel spacers installed.Hope this helps!!!

Ok, I have a story to tell. I bought this lift kit for my 2007 Honda Ridgeline based off of the reviews I had read here. I am not a mechanic or a gear head so I had a local off-road shop install. They over charged me in my opion, and they told me my front Axel was cracked, so I had them replace that as well. When I went to pick my truck up the guy tells me that this 2" lift has thrown off the geometry of the truck. He tells me that I will feel "a little" shimmy when turning, but it goes away quickly and it's ok. Well, the shimmy was anything but little. This perfectly good truck is now almost undrivable. I took it back and they tried a few things, but still the same. I called Greg from Traxda that tried helping by calling the mechanic shop. He told them that it sounds like the CV joints, but they insisted that they had just replaced the front axle so it couldn't be that. After about two weeks of back and forward, I went back to the The mechanic and said that has to be fixed. They say the only thing that they can do is remove the kit. I agreed and they said that they would call me the next day. They didn't call and I decided to try one more thing. I drove to my little Honda dealership. They looked at my Ridgeline, and within 15 mins they didn't find the problem. It was the aftermarket axle that the mechanic had installed when you first installed the lift kit. They replaced both front axles in the truck drives like it new. Long story short, the lift kit is great and the support I got from Traxda was outstanding .

The media could not be loaded.  Installed myself, very straightforward installation but labor intensive. Plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to remove the struts. Avoid using aftermarket CV axles as they will surely cause wobble. I also changed my transmission mounts while I was at it which can improve things if your truck is high mile like mine at 215K

Took about 6 hours to install the kit in my garage. It would have only taken 4 but my sway-bar end-links were rusted and that was the biggest hold up. Otherwise everything fits great with zero issues. My front spacers must have been an updated version because they were orientated in the same direction as the stock tophat so there was no need to turn 180 degrees. Pro-tip for the rear install the spacers onto the frame first, then install the strut assembly. This will save time and make the install easier. As for ride height, the fronts gain 1.75 inch and the rear 1.5 inch. Ground clearance now at 9.5 inch (stock 8 in) with stock tires. I should have known it wasn't a full 2 inch kit as the box say 2 inch level kit. The truck rides like stock.

This review is for quality of parts and the way they were shipped only... have not installed them but from what I see there are other nice reviews about how they for and look installed , anyway as i received the package it looked good everything seemed packed great as i further took the parts out i started to notice the paint had been chipped I thought it was no big deal as I further dove into the rest of the parts I started to notice a pattern that only worsen from paint chipped to dings on the metel that seemed as they were smashed against a cancret floor but the most worrying on was the one were seemed like that took a a grinder to it straight down onto it screwimg up one of the bolts threads I'm upset. So to avoid any issues for the future I'll have to buy some paint and cover up the chipped paint to avoid rust. I just hope the bolt that was screwed on the threads holds up I'm still going to install it will try to leave a review in the future on how its treated me