Fluid Film 1 Gallon Can Rust Inhibitor Rust Prevention Anti Corrosion Anti Rust Coating Undercoating Underbody Rust Proofing Corrosion Protection for Truck Snow Blower Mower Car Semi Tractor Bus

Should do what I need with keeping my new truck rust free for years.

I am in a perpetual battle with rust. I live in Michigan, and buy older high mileage cars for my family. I have tried many rust converter products. A neighbor told me about this product, so I bought a gallon to give it a try. What I like about it is the ease of application. I keep the gallon close by whenever I go underneath any of my cars and give a brush to anything that looks like rust, or even the signs that it could become rust... From an application standpoint, it goes on easily, covers well, and when I have gone back under the vehicle for other work, it seems to be holding up well. It's my first year, so time will tell if it holds back the rust. That said, I have found nothing that works hands down. Some products slow the rust down, but I have found nothing that stops rust in it's tracks. To give you an example of my yearly routine: Jack up the car on all four corners and remove the wheels: Wash the underbody, let it dry a few days, treat anything that looks like rust with a rust converter, give it a couple of days to dry, then retreat if required, or cover the treated area with rustoleum rust primer, give it a couple of days, then paint it with rustoleum shiny black paint. Then move to the next car, and the next car, and the next car. Repeat yearly. The one downside to this product that I can say so far, if it does not work, the are applied is oily/greasy and unlikely to be easily prepped for any other type of rust conversion/paint product.

This is my first experience with undercoating but since I bought a gently used Chevy 2500HD and I live in northern Ohio I felt that I should protect my vehicle for the long haul. Firstly, I overbought. I got 2 gallons and planned on doing my truck, a small suv and a Honda Fit. Well after heating up the oil and using a spray gun, I used a single canister which I believe to be about 32 oz on my truck, that figure counts for 2 coats as well. I’m not too sure on some of you saying you used a whole gallon because I can’t see how that’s feasible unless it was brushed on (definitely not spending that kind of time on that big of a vehicle.) all in all, I have plenty of product for the next few years at least. The viscosity from the cold initially was like pudding but after heating it up with a turbo heater it became very maple syrup like. Do that and you’ll have no issues. Use a tarp too! It protects from overspray and you can easily slide around on the concrete lolUpdate March 2019The rust proofing seemed to stay on during the winter. My fine mist did well from what the eye can see and as a tester to see how long it would last, I put it on the face of my tires much like a tire shine, and when I get my truck washed the tires still shine where I applied it! So screw all other tire foams just use this. I’ll be applying it again next fall for sure. Also it appears the price fluctuated based on demand by $10 so something to consider. I think the next time I apply the product I’ll try to find another way to make it very thin and sprayable, like a heating probe or a hot knife tool? I’m open to suggestions because kerosene is expensive and smelly. Good product!!

Resembles axle grease. It remains wet when applied, and does not dry. It is not a hard rubber material: It is dissimilar to an exposed bed liner coating like "Rhino". As far as I can tell, it does not seep or penetrate into the sheet metal seams by itself (I could be wrong). We thinned it 50/50 by volume with low-odor mineral spirits, and mixed it with a stick and with shaking. A plastic jar with a lid or a half-empty can works well. It may be beneficial to take the 50/50 mix to a paint seller and have them put the gallons on a shaker. We do not use a sprayer to apply it, but a one quart thumb-pump oil can from McMaster Carr. We bought a standard hose for oil, and for a sprayer had a brass one from McMaster carr that had a check valve built into it. Inside areas we used the flexi-tube squirter that comes on the oil can. My son was successful at staying quite clean using this system. The non-toxic rust proof we think is Lanolin, from sheep. We called it "Sheep Juice". It does not irritate your hands, washes out of clothes readily, and makes your skin soft like hand lotion. We have always used hand pumps to apply, with narrow nozzles you can apply through existing drain holes except for needing a 5/16" hole about 16 inches up from the bottom of the B-Pillar(coupe) or C-Pillar (sedan) so you don't have to keep pulling the lining out of the trunk. This small hole is covered by the door when you shut it. It is a maintenance task, slowing down rust as all rust-proofers work. The ones that cure (turn solid) only hold in water and cause the rust-through to be faster. For surfaces exposed to weather and splash I'd recommend some sort of paint (Rust-oleum and a brush?) as opposed to this rust-proofer. But on the plus side, It is easy to wash off (soap and water) so paint jobs can be easily touched up. In my opinion, it is the best it can be for a rust proofer. I have never found a magic rust-proofer that makes cars last forever in Michigan road salt, but I think this one can be part of an effective maintenance program for prolonging the life of a car or truck. Not needing to drill a bunch of holes, unpowered squirting equipment, non-toxic, and easy cleanup are advantages.