Hayward GLX-PCB-RITE Replacement Main PCB Printed Circuit Board for Hayward Goldline AquaRite Salt Chlorination Systems

When I opened the pool this year it was a given that something would be broken or need to be replaced. True to form, a change of various O-rings was needed and the big issue was the salt generator was not working. My swimpure+ sale system issue was that the power light would not go on even though the flow control detector would blink until it determined water was flowing. After that, the generating light would come on for 5-10 seconds and then go out. No other LED lights would go on. After reading the comments here I felt confident to call Hayward to determine if this board replaced my older board. My swimpure+ salt system in several years old and the part number on this board did not match my old one. Turns out that this new board would work and after replacing it, the salt system started working. Two days so far and with electronics it is likely to break right away or not at all. When I got the board it did not have any of the plastic standoffs that you need to mount it in the box. Fortunately I was able to use the ones off the old board to mount it in the box as well as mount the LCD display. The LCD display has not changed and works with the new board. However, the new board is slightly off on the LCD board position so when I install the face plate I gently have to nudge the LCD, % generation knob, and diag button into place. Not a big deal.. but enough that I did it gently to avoid problems. The LCD board sits way off the main board so there is play in the plastic standoffs and the copper wires that connect it. Not enough of a problem for me to ding this very affordable fix. Now I will take the old board and see if I can do a little soldering as recommend in the comments to perhaps get a future backup board.

We needed a new circuit board for our Hayward system. Decided to do it ourselves. Easy 45 minutes to install. This Hayward brand board is working great so far.

It is time for me to upgrade my old r1.40 board that is more than 10 years and was not compatible with newer cells. I purchased this PCB along with a new display board. I disconnected the 220V AC input and removed the controller from the wall. I then carefully removed the old display board. Removed the old PCB from the controller. Transferred all of the plastic support pieces to the new PCB and installed the new PCB on the controller. Then I did a wire-by-wire transfer of connectors from the old PCB to the new PCB. Everything matched and no surprise. I then installed the four support "legs" for the display board and installed the new display board. One review mentioned about the rectifier, but it was not necessary to change anything on the Aqua Rite controller. New wires to the rectifiers came with the new PCB, reconnected them. The PCB came with AC input configured for 220V, same as my old board, so no reconfiguration is needed. After connecting AC to the controller and before powering up the turbo cell, I followed the instruction and verified the cell type setting is correct (it is -15 by default, which is the same cell I'm using.) I then connected the cell to the controller and powered it up. All came up normal and running immediately. I'll check again in a few days, but so far so good. Took me about an hour to do the work.

I build a pool about 7 years ago and put in the Aqua Rite chlorniator. It worked great for 7 years. I did replace the T-15 cell after 5 years, as expected. In this case, I knew i had a problem when my pool started to get yellow staining. I get my water tested ever to weeks, never had to worry about algae because the chlorinator is so consistent. I thought it was my flow control, be cause my symptoms were as follows: Turned on my pool pump, the led said "no flow", after about 30 seconds, the power and generating lights would come on for 2 seconds, then all the led's went blank. After inspecting the flow control valve(pulled it out and visually inspected), it appeared to be fine. So basically I guessed it had to be the transformer ($125) or the circuit board. After reading the threads online it appeared that most likely was the circuit board. I got the product via next day air and since I prime membership, it was only $3.99 for that. It took me about 45 minutes to hook it up. Make sure you take pictures before you unhook the wires. It started right up and works great so far. I have had it working now for about 2 weeks, with no issue. The default setting on this board is for T-15 cell. You change that if you have a diff one. fyi...After i pulled off the old circuit board, I did notice that one of the components was charred and broke off the board. The dealer wanted to charge me $400 for the board plus labor. Same my self at least $400.00 to do it myself!!

Worked great replacing an old board from 2006. Don't waste your money with pool contractors, do it yourself

BLUF: I ordered a "Condition: Used - Like New - Item will come in original packaging" because it's been a good bet in the past and the price was awesome. I needed to replace a 15 year old R1.40 PCB that showed "PCB" error and wouldn't drive the chlorine generator. I eventually received a R1.59 PCB that appeared new and seems to be working, and I saved quite a bit of money. So I'm generally happy. But it was a process. I ended up getting 2 different PCBs. The first came loose in a box with a little bubble wrap. Definitely not the original packaging and definitely not "like new". It had some obvious wear at the mounting points and upon closer inspection I found the notorious thermistor was fried. Literally split like a stack of pancakes. I took pictures, repackaged, and returned it for a replacement. The second one arrived today. It was in soft mailing packaging. Definitely not "original packaging" and the pins that plug into the display PCB were bent. On a positive note the PCB did appear new so I straightened the display pins and installed it. It seems to work, but time will tell. Installation is easy after you watch a youtube video. The unit didn't come packaged with any instructions (or any paperwork for that matter). Mine only required a Philips-head screwdriver and 5/16" socket with ratchet. Took about 10 minutes. With the newer revision SW you do need to set the cell size before you plug in the cell; it defaults to T-CELL-15 (vs -3 or -9). Overall I'm happy but it took waiting a couple weeks and a little frustration getting here. But I did save some $ and have the satisfaction of another DIY project under my belt.

I was having a problem with the low salt value/indication of the system not matching the actual "as tested" value and found out that the new chlorine generator cell I purchased did not work properly with the existing circuit board. The circuit board was an outdated version and would not work properly with the cell. Called Hayward to find this out. I bought the new board model number as recommended by the Hayward tech. The instructions for replacing the circuit board were good. Would recommend buying this board verses a "knock-off" product that is cheaper because there is a lot more to do in the switch-out and if your not knowledgeable in electrical circuitry, it will be a problem for you. I would recommend taking a picture of the existing board/wiring before removing. That came in handy. I've had it installed for a little over a week and its working great! The salt value now closely matches the "as tested" value.

Easy install, just like the old one, except you need to change the jumper locations if your running 110 volts. You will get no display if you don't do this and wonder (like I did 'what's wrong with this thing'? There are videos on it and also a video to change the display to read in inches instead of metric.

Just installed this to replace my original PCB. I had already replaced the capacitor once on my original board, but the board was burned when it stopped working this time, so I bought this replacement. I didn't find anywhere to confirm 100% that this new board was the exact replacement for my G1-066012C-1 Rev. C, and even the manufacturer could not find my part number in their system. However, visual inspection of both PCBs indicated they were the same, so I took a chance. Ordered it last night with Prime, and this afternoon, about 18 hours later, it was here. We are back to generating chlorine now instead of adding powder. I recommend this PCB if you can confirm through numbers or visually that it is right for your system.

Remplacement facile à installer, par contre les instructions sont incomplètes! Après plusieurs essaies sans succès, les lumières vertes du Power ne s’allumaient pas… J’ai finalement lu d’autres commentaires pour comprendre que les fils pour le Power doivent être connectés dans le 1 et 3 et non 1 et 4 !! Aussitôt branché les 2 lumières sont allumées et le système fonctionne à 100%. Il y a clairement un manque d’instruction de la part du fournisseur. Le tableau dans la boîte est incomplet.

This replacement PCB worked well when installed. My advice to anyone buying this is to watch a YouTube video that details the installation as the written instructions miss a couple of key points. Several videos to choose from; most of them quite good.

Instructions for installing this new circuit board is incomplete. It is straight forward to replace all the wires to their usual contacts. However, you should note that out of the box you will see that there is a silver "jumper cable" between screws 2 & 3. In fact if you loosen these 2 screws you will see there are 2 of these jumpers. For a 110V installation you can leave them as they are, and your wires go under screws 1 & 4. However, you have a 240V system (T15 cell) they you have to move these jumpers so they are between screws 1 & 2 and screws 3 & 4. Then attach your power cables under screws 1 & 4 as before. If you do not do this then your display may come on, but the indicator lights won't work and the system is not functioning. To bad this was not included on the instruction sheet, as this would have save me a lot of headache! Hopefully, this review will be of some help to other purchasers!

Easy to replace, however, you need to check the jumper cable configuration otherwise if won't work on 240v. We have a 240V system with T15 cell so had to move these jumpers between screws 1 & 2 and screws 3 & 4. Then attach your power cables under screws 1 & 4 as before. This was not included on the instruction sheet but found this from someone else who reviewed the product.