Blue Lightning Magnesium Flexible Anode Rod, Hex Plug, 44"

The magnesium rod is great because it comes in sections that are linked with wire and no sediment jelly by product at the bottom of the tank. The sections make it easy to feed it into the top of the tank in a tight space as opposed to one piece long rod that may require you to take down the water heater to feed the rod in.We have an electric water heater and electric water heaters have a sacrificial anode rod that needs replacement. The anode rods job is to deteriorate in the water instead of the inside of the tank, hence the name sacrificial anode rod.Now there are magnesium rods like this one and aluminum rods. Our water heater came with an aluminum rod. Aside from the hazard of aluminum dissolving into the hot water and bathing, cooking, drinking, and showering with water that has aluminum dissolved in it, it has a by product during the sacrificial process.This by product is in the form of a jellyfish like substance that collects at the bottom of the water heater and could eventually reach the lower heater element (if you have 2, one at the top and one at the bottom) causing it to burn out. Also when flushing out the water heater using the spout at the bottom with a garden hose, it tends to clog because of that sediment.Save yourself the hassle and get a magnesium anode rod.

Here's what was left of the original anode rod in my 12 year old water heater. I just became aware of anode rods and that they should be replaced. Ordered this one and it was so easy to install. Grab a 1 1/16 inch socket from your toolbox and the biggest ratchet that you have. I say that because the old anode rod can be stubborn to loosen initially. Once you break it free then it's easy to keep unscrewing. This segmented anode is a genius idea since there just isn't enough space above your water heater to put a full length solid anode rod back in the water heater. The fact that this anise rod is segmented and therefore flexible makes it so easy to just insert it in the top of your water heater. Don't forget to put some pipe dope or thread tape on the threads before you put the new unit in.Here are the steps I took on my gas heater:1) close water supply line so that new water is not entering your water heater.2) I turned my temp control to "vacation"3) open the water heater drain valve and let it run for 1 to 2 mins. Then shut it off.4) access to your abode rod is likely covered by the water heater insulation. So, a razor blade or utility knife helps to cut away anything covering the 1 1/16 inch bolt head of the anode rod.5) use your 1 1/16 inch socket and ratchet to remove the old anode rod. If you dont have that socket size, head to your local home depot, lowes, Walmart or auto parts store to get one or Amazon.6) put pipe thread tape or pipe dope on the threads of your new anode rod.7) install new anode rod.8) change your temp control back to whatever heat setting you prefer (if you bothered to change it in step 2)9) open your water supply (from step 1) to let water back in your water heater.10) double check you dont have any leaks where the anode rod goes in.11) grab a magic marker and write the year you replaced the anode rod on top of your tank near the anode rod location so in the future you can see when you last replaced your anode rod. Good idea to check your anode rod every 4 years. May need to check sooner or later than that depending on how hard your water is.All done. Quick 5 min job. Super easy.

My 15 years old gas heater is Kenmore Power Miser 6.REMEMVER TO TURN OFF THE MAIN WATER VALVE, before removing the rod.This rod fits perfectly. I used a 27 mm socket and it is a perfect fit for the nut. I also used a 16" breaker bar plus a 20" pipe as the extension bar. I closed the cold water inlet, gas, and turn off the control knob to off/pilot lighting. Then I opened a hot water on a faucet to release the pressure and the hot water just kept flowing. I then closed this faucet and drain the heater for 2.5 gallon of water. Then, on to removing the old rod. It took several jolt to break the old rod nut open, once it was out, the water just shot out of the opening and I finally got to the main water valve to turn off the water to stop it. What I believe is that the cold water shut off valve was too old and not longer close correctly.Fortunately, the heater was in the garage and the water just pour out to the drive way with no damage. Then when I tried to relit the heater's pilot, I was not able to do so. some water got in to the heater vent and the burner chamber, so the pilot light observing glass fogged up, so I could not see if the pilot light is lit or not.Next, turn off the gas, remove the burner, dry up the piezo ignitor and the burner, check that it is working, vacuum the burner chamber dry, and then reinstall the burner.A one hour job turned into 2.5 hours..., at least the out come was good, so far. My old anode rod was down to bare wire!

This anode rod was exactly what I needed for a very tight install location rod looked good as did the clips and wire holding the sections together.Only knock was a sticker with the brand name was attached to the rod which took a substantial about of scrubbing to remove all the glue and paper residue. Either don’t attach a sticker or opt for a clean peel sticker if you must. Fingers crossed it looks good in 6-8 months when I check on it.

Still early for a review, but with the low ceiling level it worked fantastic instead of cutting down a full sized rod. Hopeful about it's durability since there was no definition about what the hinge material was made of. Seating it was a little bothersome but once started and tightened no leak was evident. So all in all two thumbs up.

Comes in a sealed thick clear polythene bag, tied with a rubber band .Patchy zones of flattened threads need more teflon tape.No instructions included.Sticker on the first segment must be removed prior to use.To remove the sticker glue left on the anode, WD40 worked fine.Still, the sticker should be put on the outside bag, not on the anode.

Ia bit overpriced I think for the fact it's a segmented Rod instead of a completely fixed rod and the thickness and overall length for the material you et...but it is as described.

Who puts a crappy long sticker on the actual bar? What does "certified frustration-free" mean as per their description? I'm frustrated i can't get the sticker off. I want my money back. You need to drink that water. The glue residue wont come off with soap and water. Wont come off with hand sanitizer. Won't come off with alcohol. Are these guys serious? The Glue was probably made from toxic soup. It's just a dumb marketing sticker, put it on the plastic packaging.