Lumberjack Tools Tenon Cutter Kit for Log Furniture, 1.5" Cutter & Forstner Bit, Home Series Powder Coated Aluminum, 1/2" Shank, Dual Blades Create a Radius Shoulder Profile, Made in USA

Perfect, just what I was looking for deck renovation. Works well.

I absolutely love this tool!

This can become a tool you get addicted to using. Remember all that deadfall you had which you often just burned, well you might just do something different with it after getting this. I had a plum tree come down, along with a lot of other stuff, and I basically bucked it up and placed it on the wood pile. After getting this tool I thought about using it on some scrap pieces of wood to try it out. After about a week, I have about a dozen benches, saw horses, tools, etc. I had a big pile of scrap wood but that is almost gone now. I used an Alaskan saw mill and slabbed up some nice 4 inch thick boards and used those to make benches from maple and fir. I have attached a few pics. Notes: 1. You really need a good way to clamp down the wood you are using the tenoning tool on. It is impossible to hold by hand. 2. You really need a big drill to run the tenoning bit, one that has a handle to hold it with. If the bit grabs the wood, which it will absolutely do, you will feel like your arm is going to be ripped off if you dont use a handle. 3. Adjusting the tenoning tool to cut the tenons the right size is trial and error. It seems to cut the tenons just a bit too small. 4. The forstner bit is kind of hard to use. It has a nice long neck to it, a good thing, but it seems kind of dull when compared to other forstner bits on the same wood. For the price of the kit, this should be better. 5. The plan book is not so good. Its not bad either. It has some interesting plans but I think what would be more useful is if the company spent a bit of time creating some videos to go with the plans, as well as some videos that would help make some of the more complicated joinery that is possible, and maybe a few jigs to help build the items in the plans. 6. Dont run the tenoning bit in reverse WHEN you get it stuck. It will unscrew. Instead, get a softblow hammer and whack the bottom edge until it comes loose. If you hear the bit 'squeak' you might need to back it off before it gets stuck. You will understand this when you hear it and feel it. 7. There is no slot on this version of the tenon bit, so you dont really know how deep you have cut the tenon. The more expensive version has a depth slot. Not sure if that is really that important. Since I grab just about any piece of wood that looks to be the right diameter, I end up with very 'rustic' looking legs that sometimes splay all over the place. Because of this, I always start off with the legs extra long and cut the tenons to full length. Once inserted into the mortice, I either cut them to length and blind wedge them or flush cut them to the top and wedge them. Later I level the bench, mark the legs and cut them to length. Overall, this is a pretty nice kit.

Why did you pick this product vs others?: Works great. Need a decently powerful drill though.

Good tool. Used it for one project, will likely buy another smaller one for smaller branches. Works well but you better have a 9+ amp drill and a dang tight grip. They need to enclose a little shim to aid in setting this thing up. I have a shop full of tools and the necessary feeler gages to set it up, many people might not and it’s CRITICAL to it working well.

Made a great railing and is a great value

bought a set of smaller ones and now need the 1" & 2" Great way to make good solid connections. first project was a end table out of Birch. it was a great learning curve. HAHA makes me laugh every time i see it. But out second table came out AWESOME SOLID and squared up. order some extra blades when you get them. then can sharpen at leisure and keep working on projects.

Purchased for making porch rails for a rustic cabin porch. The Forsner bit was useless with the green wet logs I was using for rails, ended up using a spade bit instead. Two problems with the tenon cutter. First, it tended to jump around a bit and would nibble at the end of the tenon, had to toss out a couple of stiles because of this. Second, it took too much of a bite and tended to stall, which caused a drill motor to burn out. Possibly my fault as I found reading the setup instructions after the fact (hey, I'm a guy) that I could have shimmed the cutters. I think that would have reduced the bite, reduced stress on the drill motor, and possibly reduce the jumping around when starting a cut. Having said all that, the rails look great and I upgraded my old half-inch drill to a new hammer drill, so the project ended well.