General Electric WR55X10025 Refrigerator Temperature Sensor

It’s been 3 months since installing and working well so far.

Fix my problem for a very good peice

YouTube was my friend with this diagnosis and cheap repair.

This replacement thermistor worked fine and was delivered quickly. However, I feel the product listing above is a little misleading as it is not a Genuine GE OEM WR55X10025 part, but is instead an ERW55X10025 aftermarket replacement part made by ERP [Exact Replacement Parts, Inc]. It looks identical though and also performs the same function so overall I'm happy with it and would likely buy again.

The defrost heater was remaining on much longer than necessary. This periodically heated up the freezer compartment making the temperature vary wildly causing items in the freezer to continuously thaw and re-freeze. While the food was fine, albeit a bit soft at times, the ice cubes became one giant chunk of ice. During the thaw phases, water would drip or condense and then later re-freeze causing the ice maker and the ice dispenser mechanisms to become jammed with ice. The evaporator fan eventually got stuck with ice also causing the fan motor to fail. There was generally a watery, icy mess in the freezer compartment and ice cream was always soft.The faulty defrost thermistor was returning an abnormally low temperature reading therefore, during the defrost cycle, the controller would keep the defrost heater on thinking that the evaporator has not yet defrosted. Fortunately, the controller has an absolute heater on timer and would shut off the heater eventually. The freezer would then get cold again until the next defrost cycle where it will warm up again, about every eight hours.Replaced the defrost thermistor and the freezer is good as new.

My GE Hotpoint model no: HSS25IFMD WW fridge has gone out several times. The first time, it was the main board.It recently had a defrost issue again. I assumed the problem was the same as before, so I made the mistake of replacing the main control board again prior to first replacing several smaller, inexpensive parts. The board and the heating element were replaced but did not fix the problem. Then I replaced the defrost thermostat and the freezer temperature sensor. I'm not exactly sure which one of these two fixed my defrost problem, but since they were both inexpensive, I replaced both. My fridge works perfectly again.A couple things to keep in mind, you will need some wire strippers, wire nuts, and electrical tape to do these repairs correctly. Replacing this part is not time consuming or labor intensive at all. For installation instructions, search Youtube for installation videos.***IMPORTANT***Make sure you defrost the freezer coils before you expect this repair to take effect.My defrost problem was as a result of my freezer not going into defrost mode as it should. After installing these new components, I expected the defrost cycle to start immediately, which would have been evident by seeing the defrost heater come on. This did not happen which made me sick, because I thought my repair was a failure. It was not until I defrosted the freezer coils and started the freezer again that I saw the freezer go into defrost mode correctly.

It worked. Does what it’s designed to do. Plenty of cord length if you need it or you can trim it back. Used in an older GE fridge that wasn’t defrosting properly. Now it defrosts as it should.

I want to make sure people know this is NOT an OEM part. It is an OEM authorized part. You can get the real part for the same price so this was a bit of a let down. It came in an unmarked plastic bag but seemed to be roughly the same part even though externally they look different than the OEM one. No instructions provided but its basic 2 wire installation. I replaced this with along with the defroster unit and another sensor (which were both GE OEM btw) and my problem which was a constantly cycling condenser has been fixed.The picture and the description are accurate just be aware that you are getting a knock -off for the same price as OEM.