Sovol Creality Ender 5 Plus Silent Mainboard V2.2 with TMC2208 Drivers BootLoader Controller Motherboard for Ender 5 Plus CR-10S/ CR-10 S4/ CR-10 S5/ CR-X/CR-20/ CR-20 PRO CR-X 3D Printer

Took me about 45 minutes to change the board. To avoid mixing up the cables, I started removing one on the old board and moving it to the corresponding socket on the new board (boards have the same layout). Did that for each cable one by one. First time I turned it on, the screen was blank, but as soon as I flashed the CR-10S firmware (provided by Creality) with XLoader, everything seemed fine. The only problem was that it was attempting to use the onboard filament run out sensor (I had removed that long ago and replaced it with an octoprint solution). So I installed Marlin 2.0 and disabled the sensor from the code before flashing. Now the printer is so silent that I can leave it running at night without my wife complaining (printer is upstairs from the bedroom and it could previously be heard at night).Possibly the best upgrade I did to the printer so far.

Incredibly quiet. It was plug and play exactly as advertised. This really is an essential upgrade and it's a real shame creality don't ship it as standard.PSU fan noise of course remains but noise and vibration are completely eliminated.

Fitted it, very easy despite no instructions. Firmware on board. Power on, "Home" and bed drives into nozzle, gears grind, metal bends, glass breaks, BLTouch doesnt work with this board.

Got two of these now switched out my sunlight so boards with them and now I have 2 creality cross both with bl touch using th3d marlin firmwareGreat boards lots of fan portsOnly quibble v refs on both boards where at 1.2 and motors was over heating when I tuned this in and did a pod tune no issues at all

I ordered this board as an emergency replacement after accidentally blowing out the one in my ender 3. Of course with this not being specifically designed for it, it does require some tweaks and an additional cable for the display to get the encoder to work. I am glad to announce though that the hole pattern and spacing is identical to the ender 3. It's just that this board is a tad wider, but the control box can take the extra width.Note though that this board has an ATMega 2560 as opposed to the 1284p that the stock Creality Melzi boards have, so compiling for Sanguino will not work, therefore you also can't use stock Creality firmware. Although the good news is that this board (or at least the one I have) DOES have a bootloader so you can upload firmware to with without a problem, and Marlin is easy to configure and customize if you know how to use the Arduino IDE so this isn't a massive issue for me.On a side note, I configured this board as an MKS Gen L in Marlin and it picks everything up just fine.As for general noise and performance, I have yet to evaluate the performance as the way my mainboard failed also took out my hotend's thermistor, so I'm waiting on replacements to be able to do that, but I have performed a dry-run (with no heat / extrusion) and compared to the old A498 based board... This thing is nuts. It's absolutely silent! You actually have to be right next to the machine with no fans running to even hear the faintest hum from the motors it's that quiet!A final and rather important note, if you want to be able to use the clickwheel on an Ender 3 on this specific board, you will need a second ribbon cable which goes into the middle socket of the display module. Without it, the click works but trying to navigate menus is not possible as the rotation won't be detected. This won't be a massive problem if you intend to just use Octoprint or Pronterface to control the machine externally but if you use your machine standalone, this will become a massive pain extremely fast!

I wanted to upgrade my CR-10S (Hictop brand but it's really all Creality inside) to be more silent. It took about an hour to do the change-over. Make sure to label the TB, TH1, and KFAN connectors before removing them as they can be easily confused. The rest are either labelled or only fit in one place.Despite watching some videos and reading some guides it wasn't clear at all where to plug the different fans in. I finally figured it out. On the old board the variable part fan is connected to the K-FAN connector, and the other 3 fans (2 inside, one on the block) are connected to FAN1 FAN2 FAN3 and all run full speed. On the new board there are two FAN connectors for variable speed fans (so connect your old K-FAN to one). And there are 3 connectors for the full-speed fans, two are labelled VIN, the other AUX. It doesn't matter which you connect to which, they are all the same voltage and speed. Make sure to replace the cable ties that attach the bundles to the case once you've routed the new cables as there is very little strain relief on the entry to the control box so you need this.Flashing was quick, again after finding the right firmware file, and gone is the whirrrwhiirrrr noise that was so irritating.

It's a pity Creality don't ship with a Silent board.This is a perfect upgrade from the stock board on the 5+.Works out of the box but I added the Kersey Fabrication firmware for better bed leveling options.

It took a couple hours to swap the board but this was partly due to the hot glue on the connectors. Firmware was loaded and ready to run. Note: This board has a stepper driver for the second extruder (original board did not) but does not have a heat sink.