48 Inch High Reach Tree Limb Hand Rope Chain Saw for Tree Trimming-Upgraded Pocket Manual Chainsaw with 62 Sharp Blades on Both Sides for Gardening Camping Survival Gear

Successfully cut down very high limbs. Only issue is not having the ability to undercut large limbs. Cut 12" inch oak branch easily but with no undercut the branch fell cracking leaving a shreds and splits in the branch. Remaining on the tree side. Not aestically pleasing and leaves the tree susceptible to disease. Will continue to use on small branches

This tool is very handy for someone with experience pruning trees with a chainsaw, pruning saw, or bowsaw. It may be frustrating to use if one is unfamiliar with the proper techniques of pruning a tree limb.The recommended approach is to go out 12 to 18 inches from the trunk of the tree and make an undercut of about 1 inch on the bottom of the limb. Remove the saw and make a complete cut from the top of the limb 3 to 4 inches further out on the limb so the limb falls to the ground. With the weight now off the remaining part of the limb, cut the stub limb top to bottom just outside the branch "collar" but not cutting into the trunk wood.With the rope limb saw it's probably not possible to make the undercut. Here are my suggestions how to use the Homyall rope limb saw. Buy some parachute cord and 2 lengths of 3/8 inch nylon braided rope--I think mine are 75 feet each. Attach an eye bolt to a tennis ball and then attach one end of the parachute cord to the tennis ball and the other end to one of the ropes. Secure one end of each rope to the saw blade. The black nylon bag that comes with the chain can be used as a throwing bag but I find a tennis ball with our dog's chuckit thrower works great. Or, an old baseball.Throw the ball or weighted bag over the limb to be cut. As you pull the parachute cord and nylon rope, make sure there are no kinks in the chain as you're pulling it into position. Position the chain in the recommended 12 to 18 inch distance from the trunk. To make sense of my description below, invision a clock face on the tree trunk. Stand at a 7 o'clock position and move the two ropes so the chain cuts is between 12 and 1. Go slowly and don't make too deep a cut on the top. Move yourself over to the 5 o'clock position and saw between 11 and 12. What you're trying to do is cut into both sides of the limb before cutting down. When the 11 to 12 cut is OK, step further away from the tree and continue cutting while in the 3 to 4 position. I would then move back to the 8 to 9 position and cut until it breaks away. This last cut will have more emphasis on cutting downward. Then thow the cord a second time and cut the stumb limb in a similar fashion.The tool is most effective if there are two people pulling the two ropes who are standing in the 8 to 9 and 3 to 4 positions. Even with two people I would still try to make side cuts. The whole objective of my approach is to avoid pinching the chain. Go slowly and make gentle cuts with the chain which is sharp enough to do the job. If the chain is pulled too hard and quickly it increasing the likelihood of pinching.There were no surprises for me with this tool. I got exactly what I wanted so I could customize to fit my purpose.For a person new to tree pruning I would recommend buying a pruning hand saw and practice on limbs of any size (that need to be cut!) close to the ground to get familiar with the technique. Then go for the Homyall and improve your view!Good luck.

Couldn't keep chain from binding up, did not work for my project.

Don’t worry about it, this works. It does. I took down an oak tree and had to top it about 2/3 of the way up because it was hung up in another tree. Standing under it with a chain saw was dangerous. Called a widow maker in some parts. I had an older rope saw but broke the chain when it got stuck. Bought this brand because I need to pick one of many. These new double-sided designs are 100% easier to use than my old one-sided cutting chain. Glad the old one broke. After trimming a few 3-inch limbs so I could get a clear area to toss the throw bag where I wanted it, I was able to cut thru ten inches of the oak trunk and drop the top.Now a few things to consider from someone who has used rope saws a lot. Buy some separate heavy paracord or nylon cord to tie to your throw bag. DO NOT TIE IT TO THE SAW LINES. Second do not use the snap clip they give you. Toss it and tie the cord directly to the bag. That bag will get hung up in branches and you will have to tug hard to free it. On the opposite end from the bag put a good snap hook so you can hook the saw line and pull it up and over the branch. Tossing that saw line in the air with 48 inches of sharp teeth attached is going to get you cut up. Plus, if the throw gets caught up in the branches and you can’t get it free, your saw will be 20 feet up and your day will be done.Now the most critical part of all. If you are not a patient person call a professional. You may have to toss the bag a dozen or more times to get it where you want it. Maybe even 24 times. LOL If your tree has surrounding branches lake many oaks or pines plan on it taking some time. Sometimes you have to “cut” your way up the tree removing branches, so you get a clear shot at the limb or section of the trunk you want.But if you are patient, this does work in cases where you feel your under a widow maker or just trying to take off a limb and don’t want to climb a ladder or hire a pro. The orange nylon hand straps included. A life saver but never put them over your wrist. Fingers and palms only so you can let go and run if you have to. Trees never fall where we expect them to 100% of the time.

Removing tree limbs high up in a tree can be very expensive and/or dangerous. Using the rope saw I ordered from Amazon proved to be an effective and economical solution to my problem. I raised a horizontal HAM radio antenna and it was necessary to remove several 1-3 Inch diameter tree limbs. The estimate for professional removal was $250; the rope saw cost about $20. Using the rope saw required a bit of hard work and a couple of long ropes, but it worked. The only negative is that mentioned by others - the saw blade tends to jam as the cut nears completion. To minimize that problem, it is best to have two people pull the ropes from as far apart as possible.

Really not a one person operation for limbs over 6 in in diameter. Tends to bind if ends of the rope are too close together on deeper cuts. Cuts well in both directions, teeth similar to a chain saw, can sharpen as such.Much better than my original Harbor Freight "high limb saw blade".

The most challenging part is getting the weight and the pilot rope over the branch. Once you have the chain saw in place branch removal is easy peasy

We had a branch about 7m up and on a slope with a sandstone retaining wall underneath.It wouldn't have been safe on the ladder without a harness and still would have been sketchy.I couldn't reach it from the roof without getting right to the edge with the chainsaw pole, sketchy with a 2.5 story drop.Only way I figured I could do it safely was with a harness anchored to the roof, which I don't have but was going to buy.This got the job done in less then half an hour (we took it down in bits) a heap of paracord, with me on one side and misses on the other.We didn't even cut the paracord, we just got it over the branch and ties each end to the chain making a big loop. This way we didn't end up with 2 bits of paracord.Only tip would be: Put your gloves on at the start of the job, not halfway through once your hands start hurting.Saved us heaps of money, great buy, highly recommend!!!

The saw was razor sharp and cut well until it was halfway through a branch. Then it began to grab in the cut. It got harder and harder to saw. Then it stuck in the cut. The blade would still move a tiny bit so I could tell it wasn't binding in the cut. Close examination showed that the teeth were getting jammed in the wood. They have a gap between them that, as the branch is cut , allows the teeth to "tip" and dig into the wood. I noticed a few brands of these saws have a "raker" plate between the teeth to prevent this. I returned the saw and will order one with the raker plates. I gave it points for being sturdy and half points for cutting half way through.

This has been working well so far and has been used to prune dead and live limbs on Australian hardwood species of various sizes from 3” to 8”. That said, I’ve almost had it stuck up high twice and reckon it’s only a matter of time before it gets stuck for good.Tricks I’ve learned from previous reviews and trial and error:1. Start on low limbs to get a feel for it. When you get it stuck get out the ladder.2. Run it easy, don’t get impatient and put too much pressure on it while cutting, this will increase the chances of it getting jammed.3. Try to maintain as straight a line as possible; minimize the arc of the line. This will prevent pinching when the limb begins to sag.4. Start the cut with the line straight down below the limb then move outward to lessen the arc of the line.5. I always keep the chain oiled with bar oil. Not sure if this does anything.That’s what I’ve learned so far and some tips that may be of help. I’ll be advancing to limbs 20 meters plus next so we’ll see how it goes. I may be in the market for climbing gear to retrieve it.

I won’t be able to use this for a few months, but it seems very solid and well built. I have no doubts that it will be great for camping.