PENN GRADE 1, 71206, Break-In Oil SAE 30, Works with Diesel and Gasoline Engines, 1 Quart (12 Pack)

I use BP on all my air cooled engines.

This motor oil has enough zddp in it for use in older hi-perf engines with solid lifters, thus making it an excellent product. Much care has to be used when breaking in this type of engine.Since the EPA has ordered that all companies reduce the zddp content in all motor oils, Brad-Penn is the best. It also is non-synthetic because that type of oil is not friendly to older, solid lifter camshafts. The newer oils have lower levels of zddp (zinc and phosphorus) which will, in time, ruin your cam lobes. This does NOT apply to newer cars running a roller cam which is designed to work with lower levels of zddp in the oil.I researched all the motor oils for older engines, especially for breaking-in my newly rebuilt 454 c.i., 450 hp, LS-6, in my 1970 Chevelle and finally decided to use Brad-Penn. The viscosity is perfect for my engine that after start-up, had to be run for 25-30 minutes at varying RPM's between 2000 and 2500 to avoid wiping out the solid lifter cam lobes.For anyone that has an "older," newly rebuilt engine using solid lifters, I recommend using Brad-Penn for breaking it in. Ensure that your cam lobes are liberally covered with break-in lube as well and avoid using Comp Cams red lube. It is watery and does not remain on the lobes!Use a lube that is gray (Crane, for example) which is very thick and there will be no need to worry about starting up your engine the next day or next week, because that lube remains on the lobes and doesn't drip down into your oil pan. AVOID using Comp Cams cam lube and DO NOT use that gray cam lube on the cam bearings!Fill your engine to its proper capacity with the Brad-Penn Break-In oil and ensure you are using a WIX oil filter. Pre-lubricate your engine by priming the oil pump with a drill and a specially made tool that fits in the hole for the distributor (or make it yourself from an old distributor) for about five minutes, rotate your engine a 1/4 turn and repeat until the the crankshaft has completely rotated 360 degrees. Remove the tool and install the distibutor and ensure your timing is very close to its specs. Then fire your engine up and check the timing. If it doesn't start right away, re-check everything because there is a strong possibility of ruining your cam from the constant rotation of the engine by the starter and wiping all the cam lube off on it.Once it has started, run the engine as I did for about 25-30 minutes, vary the RPM's between 2000 and 2500 (adjust your carb settings to do this) and check for any oil or water leaks. The cam should be broken in at that time. Shut it down and after a little cooling, remove the Brad-Penn oil, replace it with a HIGH ZDDP, multi-weight motor oil that is NON-SYNTHETIC, and change the oil filter as well. I highy recommend that you use an Oil Additive in addition to the motor oil as well, because it has enough zddp in it to complement the new oil. Make sure you use an additive that specifically contains ZDDP.By performing the above process, your Musclecar and it's solid lifter cam should last a long time. Change the oil and filter every 500 miles or so, but if you don't drive your car that much, change it either at the end of the season before you store it or when you bring it out of storage for a Summer of fun.

As "A SANE Investor" stated, this is the oil you want for break-in if you are running a flat tappet cam (hydraulic or solid).The reason they are removing ZDDP, besides it's not needed for roller lifters, is that it can slowly damage newer catalytic converters. If you're running a flat tappet cam with catalytic converters, you still want the ZDDP in the oil after break-in and most likely you're using older converter that's not affected by the additive. I don't see an issue with using break-in oil during break-in for a roller lifter cam, it can't hurt, the engine shouldn't be burning enough oil this early to cause issues with your catalytic converters.I originally purchased 7 quarts, my Pontiac 400 takes 6 plus I used 1 quart for engine assembly. Assembly includes things like installing the pistons, soaking the timing chain and oiling main bolts before torquing.I plan on using this oil for the first 500 miles on my Pontiac 400 rebuild, with an oil and WIX filter change promptly after cam break-in. Everyone has their own procedure, but as "A SANE Investor" said, you want to run the car with this oil for 20+ minutes at about 2,000 RPM. I've actually been told to keep the RPM's at 1,800-2,000 with the occasional 1,200-2,500 rev. Every engine is different, I suspect the RPM is based on the optimal oil pressure for your engine's oil pump, so get a book/reference specific to your motor.Once you're broken in, you can switch to a ZDDP additive or shop for an oil that has it included.

I had trouble finding break in oil to use in my 1937 Dodge and found the Brad Penn product to be just what I wanted. I only put on about 300 miles in 2013 and had questions on whether I should change the oil for winter storage or leave the oil in till the 2014 season and get more miles from it before changing.I went to the Brad Penn web site and put in my question. I expected an email reply but ended up getting a phone call very soon after by a person that really knew their products and what conditions they were best suited for. I was told that I had already used the break in oil longer than I needed to. After discussing how low temperatures can get in the spring and fall when I drive the car as well as how hot in the summer it can get, there was the recommendation to change the oil before storing the car for the winter. We also discussed how much synthetic oils can affect gasket leaks in older cars. I live in the Chicago area and it was determined that since I do not drive the car in the winter months that 20W50 partial synthetic would reduce the chance for gasket leakage while providing optimum protection for both the low and high temperature range that I can expect to drive in.

This oil is what it says it is excellent break in oil or regular oil if you don't want a synthetic oil great for flat tappet Cams and high performance engines race and street hot rods too made from true Pennsylvania Crude excellent for high HP street engine or older HP engines highly recommend

It is important to use a mineral oil like Brad Penn Oil and not synthetic oil when breaking in a rebuilt engine. Some wear in of parts is important for proper fit. Synthetic oils put a film on surfaces and prevent the proper wear-in of pistons and cylinders. Brad Penn Oil also contains zinc which is important in lubricating cam shaft surfaces at initial start up. Very good product.

If your needing a great ( break-in oil) that contains ZINC for wear protection of new Cam and Lifter failure during the break in period on a old style pre 1985 engine.... this is a great product to use! I would not think of even starting a brand new or rebuit engine without it! Break in your engine with this and them use the brad Penn Racing Motor oil with Zinc for continued protection!

When starting a solid lifter engine with a new cam, in my opinion, this is the best oil to use. Willcontinue using Brad Penn for the future.

Good heavy duty packaging - looking forward to breaking in the new engine with this oil.

Great product but the seller is confused...