Smooth-Cast 300, Bright White, Ultra Low Viscosity Liquid, Pint Unit

Well I do not know what "sheerness" means except perhaps get a better writer. It is strong and for me easy to use. Of course I mostly use injecting into molds (Larger hypodermic syringes') but one can pore it as well. I have used Smooth Cast for about 10 years now and I have not seen another product that is it's match. I also use dye to change the color, mostly black. I also like the fast cure time (10 min). The plastic can handle negative curves in complex molds. I also like the cleanup as simple alcohol cleans out the the syringes and injector tubes. Great product. Now if someone will explain to me what "sheerness" means?

I like that this cures really fast. Worked great for my mask project.

Worked perfectly for my needs. Very little bubbling even when pouring it directly into a two-part thin walled cast squish mold with very little venting built into the mold. Even though my casted part is probably 1/8 of an inch thick at its thickest point, and probably half that at it's thinnest, this product is still very durable. Surprisingly. I was expecting I may needed to get the Smooth Cast Task series product over the Smooth Cast 300 to get what I needed for such a thin cast. First attempt at a cast I tried degassing the mixed resin. Spent one minute mixing. And one minute or so degassing. Which should have left me with one final minute of potlife. Nope, within a 3 second period between having my eyes on the resin in the chamber, I look back and see a very hot eruption of resin that instant cured into a soft foam in the shape of magma pouring out of the cup like a volcano lol. Lesson #1 learned. No degassing. First cast I used release (really just cooking spray) and black pigment powder. And it came out horrible. Finish was rough and textured, and the color was grey although I used a ton of black pigment. And ultimately it made the cast extremely brittle and it broke in two places while sanding/trimming. Lesson #2 learned. No additives, and avoid release agents (or at least particularly non-cast specific release agents). Without any additives or any release (still released perfectly fine without any chemical release) it came out very smooth and very durable. It also sands amazingly well. Doesn't clog up sanding paper, sands down powdery and easily. Also the cast was a motorcycle helmet spoiler that isn't sold separately anywhere. Was a very expensive handmade Portuguese carbon fiber racing helmet. I decided to learn about molding and casting and made myself a new one using a spoiler to the same model I bought for my girlfriend as a gift. Think of, two birds one stone lol. Gift + master for my own spoiler. For my very first cast, being so complex as it was, and being such an amazing success.. I am completely happy with myself and the results of the various products I've used. Will say though, silicone mold making is definitely much more difficult than the resin casting process haha. Especially two part molds making with non-flat masters.

First time using this stuff and it’s exactly what I was looking for! I hand-sculpt and mold all of my art because I don’t have a 3D printer so this material is a close second to what I was looking for in terms of something that feels plastic-y and light. Just know what you’re doing ahead of time and measure accordingly because it cures EXTREMELY fast and you don’t want to waste a lot of product (happened to me my first try unfortunately)

No issues with the product, works great but don’t be fooled by the cheap paper package handle. I received my package in one of those paper shipping bags. When i opened the bag, I naturally lifted the product out by the handle. Big mistake. Unfortunately the packaging is cheap and isn’t designed to withstand the Amazon shipping process. As soon as i lifted the package out by the handle, both bottles broke through the bottom of the package and crashed on the floor. THANKFULLY contents did not spill out (tops are sealed with foil) however one of the caps cracked and i had to transfer the contents to another bottle.

My first time casting a mold. Works perfect. I recommend it.

This stuff was very stable for 2 weeks even in my basement with 50% humidity. Alumilite was only stable for 3 days after opening

We had a leak in our outdoor fountain and I just decided to attempt a repair. After some research, I found this product. It's easy to use, just follow the simple instructions on the containers. 50/50 mix (stir each before mixing). I used two 16oz. plastic drinking cups to mix (it will get warm when you mix - when you can feel the warmth really well against your palm as you're mixing, it's ready to use). I poured the mix on the basin and in the pump well (we made the mistake of not covering our fountain during the winter and snow / water created numerous cracks in the concrete). With a helper, we swirled around the mix along the entire basin and well. The product filled the cracks and began to turn white. In approx. 10-15 minutes (as stated on the instructions) it was dry. We let it cure for a few hours and then painted to match the rest of the fountain. It worked perfectly. The product created a nice, waterproof bond. Paint applied easily and, no leaks! We don't have a pond but those with leaks in the plastic "tub" variety will benefit from this product.

This product is so easy to use, doesn't have a bad smell so can be used indoors. You do have to be quick so be well prepared with moulds to use

Perfect

The item is as discribed and it’s way above the expectations

This product works super well...easy to use and you get great casting.... If you are looking to make anything this is the product to use... Will buy some more in the future. thank you N.

I used it to mold HO train parts. I mixed powdered pigment in one part and then mixed the two parts for a minute and poured. I had very few bubbles and I was able to reproduce some very fine details. The parts were ready to de-mold in about 10 to 15 minutes. I used a squeeze mold for some parts and an open mold for others. Both methods worked well. The product cures opaque white and adding black powder pigment gave me a finished product that was grey. I made about 200 small parts with this size. I used two separate syringes to accurately measure parts A and B then mixed them in a medicine cup.