GELUOXI 12V Twin Air Compressor Replacement for CKMTA12 Universal High Output On-Board Air Compressor

I watched a decent amount of content on this style compressor and decided to buy this one. Price is great compared to name brand and it does the job I got it for. Besides the obvious changes I made in order to make it work where I wanted it, I did put a higher psi pressure switch in it to help fill tires faster.

Exact same as the $600 guys compressor, except 1 part, and you can go onto the "Expensive guys" website and buy that 1 part for $21. Change it out with a 1-1/16 socket and you're good to go.That 1 part, is the Pressure Control Switch, it makes the compressor shut off and come back on when it reaches certain PSI. The one that comes in this compressor is rated to shut off around 90psi, while the one from the "Expensive Guys" is set to shut off around 150psi and come back on around 130psi.Other than that, the 2 compressors are sourced from the same factory. Just the other guys pay to have their name put on the machine.

Just received this compressor and I’m concerned about the quality. The screws holding the fan inlet filter don’t fit right, are loose and one is missing, another was in the bottom of the box. I’m going to test this right away and decide if I need to return it.

So far so good nice and quiet puts out air

Well, it was fun to install. The connectors are really sloppy and hard to get to connect. The connector for the locker does not mate up with an ARB connector, they look the same, but if you look close the wire connectors are at different places in the plug. It took me a while to get this put in, I made a custom bracket to go around one of my batteries (1995 Dodge Cummins) to keep this close to the front air locker and the power source. Then I had to install a PODs type switch box, all of this to say that by the time I was finished with the install it was too late to return the pump. I had everything up and running, but it was running too much, I had an air leak. I used a few wraps of Gorilla plumbing tape (I usually use paste, but did not want to chance getting some in my air locker system) I had a short nipple, to a T to an air chuck and to the locker valve. There was a leak between the nipple and the T. I am trained as an auto tech, and have spent 20 years after that being a handyman/contractor. When I took the fittings around one more time to tighten things down, I heard/felt something let go. I trashed the threads on the pump. My guess is they are low grade alloy. I have years of experience tightening things and these were not under an undue amount of pressure. I guess I will put this $300 paper weight out of sight (out of mind) and order a real ARB. I did read that other people have been really happy with these, and that is just it, with low quality parts and minimal quality control some are great some have poor castings, or other parts, like mine. I really think some of these knock offs are made out of the rejected parts from the quality brands, but I have no proof. If there was a way to contact the manufacture I would see about getting replacement parts, but Amazon said to search for their information in a browser of my choice! WTF, Amazon you have these sellers contact information! The good news is, most of my work is done when the ARB comes, and I know I can get service and parts for it, if I ever need them. You do get what you pay for, both in hard goods and service.

This is a solid little compressor. It’s obviously a knock off of the ARB CMA12 High Output compressor- they even have the same name. There is no ARB branding on this compressor but I suspect they would look identical otherwise. It’s impressively heavy and seems well built.It includes a heavy duty wiring harness with a compressor on switch and connections for two air locker switches (front and rear most commonly) and connections for the matching solenoids at the compressor side. It also includes a heavy duty 60amp relay and automatic pressure switch.It has a mounting base but you’ll need to get creative with finding a way to secure it since the bolts are directly underneath it. It took me a while to figure out how to secure it.I tested it with my MORRFlate 4 tire inflator/deflator system on my 35” BFGs. Airing up all 4 tires as once from 25-35psi took this compressor about 4-5 minutes. I admittedly wasn’t timing it so that’s a best guess but it did raise all 4 tires about 2psi a minute.It’s loud but not terrible, from inside the truck with the HVAC and radio on you can nearly hear it- I mounted mine under the hood. I recommend that because holy smokes this thing gets HOT, see attached pic. At one point the manifold registered 244*F after a solid 4 min of continuous inflating all 4 tires. Moving forward I will cycle it on and off a bit more when airing up.

Installed this today with the ridiculously overpriced Innovative AT Products underseat mount and 4 tire manifold setup with deflator/inflator tool in my 2020 Jeep JL. I had read on the forums that the undersea install was a pain in the %$#!, however this was super easy. The cables could run easily from the engine bay along frame rail and up through under seat drain hole. There is more than enough room and didn't have to remove the entire seat or unplug anything for the install.I wired it to the Jeep Aux switch and worked perfect first time:) Double bonus installing on Jeep, you can run ac floor vents and directly cool of the unit as it works!

Great value for the money!