10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper

Falta un instructivo para utilizarlas. Son buenas hojas de transferencia para realizar pCB

I thought this paper worked fine. It took me a few tries to get it right, but after 3-4 attempts I got a good transfer. I did heat my paper so hot the plastic coating transferred with the carbon as well. I think if i heat less, the shiny coating will not transfer. See the image for my results. Here's what I did1. print on the shiny side2. steel wool copper surface well and wipe with acetone3. tape the paper to the PCB board to prevent movement4. get the iron as hot as it will go5. iron until plastic appears to start "bleeding through" (note this may be too much)6. Peel off paper when PCB board is warm7. Etch using you preferred chemicals (I used 1:2 muriatic acid/hydrogen peroxide)8. clean off imprint using acetone (since my shiny stuff transferred as well, i had to steel wool the toner off)Hope this helps

So, ok... First off, I've been doing boards since I was uhhhh 14? I'm 49 now, so I've seen a lot with PCB fabrication. I've used Sharpie, tape, decals, photo-resist, and of course, toner. I've even worked in a place that made PCBs the industrial way. Out of all this, toner is my first choice because it's cheap as dirt and all the other methods have their issues.Working with toner, I've used glossy laser paper, magazine paper, clear cutter machine vinyl, and now this paper. Believe it or not, my two favorites are now the vinyl film and this paper. Vinyl actually works very well, you'd be surprised, but it can't do miracles any more than this paper can, and thus you'll still have printer and laminator/iron issues.On my first try, I don't think the laminator was hot enough, and my print along the edge of the PCB cracked and moved a teeny bit in places. The traces came out fine to the eye except for one very tiny crack in one place across the entire board, and since it was in a pad it didn't matter. I etched the resulting board straight away in 1 part hydrochloric + 2 parts hydrogen peroxide, and in a shocking 5 mins it was done. Only one problem - all of the artwork pitted a bit. This is NOT the fault of the paper, not even the fault of the laminator that i use, really. It's the simple fact that laser printers generally don't make a solid coating of toner, period. They print documents, bro, it's what they're actually for.So, the board is going to work, since the pits don't extend through the whole foil thickness. It just isn't very pretty. I've noticed that this paper is a bit more translucent than normal paper, so next time I'm going to print two copies of the art, laminate the first, and use registration marks in the artwork to mount and laminate the second copy over the first. With a little luck, it won't drift out, and I'll get a much better etch due to the 2x thickness of the toner transfer. I'll come back and let you all know how that went.I like this stuff so far. Any method that works the first time, pits or not, has a lot of promise. Once you work out your method, I think this paper will treat you very well.Rick NR417

When transferring the toner to the metal, 95-99% of it transfers all the way, some of it doesn't. Definitely the paper and metal need to cool almost to room temperature, at least, in order to peel the yellow paper off, without the toner getting stuck in between deciding to stay on the metal, or go with the paper.When I do get mostly good transfers, I find that some sort of goo, that seems to be invisible to my eye, is also transferring to the metal, because the nice cleaned, polished metal that isn't under the toner, seems to resist etching, just like the toner part.I would probably have given this a '2 stars' because mostly it's wasted a lot of my time, but it _is_ cheap, and if I can get it to work, then we'll be at an even 3 stars.Leaving the iron on for a longer time, much longer, makes the paper brittle and flaky, and it really doesn't want to transfer, then.Paper is pretty thin an sensitive - if you rub it very much, it'd going to wear through.So - still working on temperatures (which I measure off the yellow paper with a IR thermometer), times, pressures, surface roughnesses, etc. It's like I'm on the edge of it working, but it's not working yet.I'm applying the toner to flat aluminum bar stock, and flat steel plates. I'm utilizing & attempting various chemicals to etch (metal) without the toner popping right off. Toner on metal seems to be pretty fragile, too, so concentrated lye popped the design right off, first 5 seconds of etching Al. Having more luck with more dilute lye. Ferric chloride leaves an uneven surface finish on aluminum if brushed on. HCl, citric acid - tend to etch ok, but the toner still likes to fall off if you look at it funny.May just have to go with some other solution, toner's not very thick anyway, it's not a great deep-etch resist. Which is what I'm trying, not a simple PCB.

Edit: After a few different prints, I took off a star because if you even breathe on this toner after printing, it comes right off. It's hard to get a good print because your line break constantly break.I took to Copyworks and had them print it for me, so it was printed on a pretty high end printer. Toner is not very steadfast on the paper and will wipe off relatively easily so handle very carefully. I could see large boards not printing/ transferring well. Copper layouts transferred better than some other techniques I've tried and my etches turned out pretty good, but my colored silkscreen is completely unreadable. Overall creates a functional amateur PCB but it probably won't give you great PCB's so go in with that expectation and you'll be fine.