DC-DC 25A

I have one of this brand solid state relays running my pickups electric fan at 12v with 250 hz pwm. Works great for this purpose and you can even get heat sinks for them.It's been on the truck over a year now and ~ 9000 miles, mostly in the heat.

Bought 2 of these thinking that possibility of one being bad was not unrealistic. Both failed. Installed completely within specifications and neither worked. On connection both relays closed the switched circuit without having the relay energized. Due to the nature of the project I could not fire the system up until beyond the window of ability to return so I seem to have no recourse. Not happy about that. I wound up ordering a TE brand relay (just one) and it worked perfectly on install. The TE relay is also made in China, but clearly to higher standards.

I have been needing these for a long time and didn't even know it. Mechanical relays fail pretty quick in some applications and have other issues. This works perfectly with a control voltage of greater than 3 volts and is dead silent. No moving parts. The back is an awesome heat sink. Easy to mount and hook up. Love these things just ordered more.

Why did you pick this product vs others?:Best ones I’ve ever bought. Can be used for just about anything u want to switch on and off.

I have a DC-powered fan in my pinball cabinet that I wanted to turn on whenever certain effects happen, but the current draw of the fan was higher than the output from my electronics board allowed, so an SSR was needed. This takes an input current and when triggered turns on an output current for the fan. My only word of note - be sure and look at the diagram included with the SSR. I assumed I knew how it should be hooked up and was wrong - USE THE DIAGRAM!

I've killed a couple accidentally because the output is one direction so if you feed in from the wrong direction for too long you kill it. Either toss in a slip of paper or label it better then these would be 5 star all day every day. And they get HOT so scrounge up some old computer heatsinks and JB Weld them on with a thin layer so you get heat transfer.

Can't handle 100amp and allows current to flow in reverse when unpowered. Tested with 2 100ah batteries and a 100amp PSU. With the power supply off and the relay unpowered, the batteries fed power to the PSU, causing an LED to remain powered. I also put a 6ohm resistor on the PSU output and it allowed more current to pass with only a slightly increased voltage drop across the relay. In normal operation with 100amps flowing, the switch immediately started to increase its voltage drop and failed within 30 seconds.

I needed to control a solar-powered well pump with a float switch. Could not find a float switch which would handle 5 amps at 140 volts DC. The controller that the pump manufacturer sells costs several hundred dollars. With this SSR, I just needed a small float switch and a tiny 5v solar panel to provide a few milliamps for control power.I bolted the SSR to the back of a metal enclosure using the supplied heat sink grease. So the enclosure serves as the heat sink. It doesn't get warm.Instructions are sparse, so I don't know if the control power has to be isolated from the load. Could have built a voltage divider with resistors to get control voltage from the main panels, but using the tiny panel ensures that the two sides of the SSR are isolated. Very easy to hook up. It's been in service for about a week. I'll update if anything changes.