---
product_id: 2392221
title: "Complete DIY Foundation Crack Repair Kit, 10 Ft - Low-Viscosity Urethane Injection Sealant for Crawl Spaces & Concrete Basement Walls, Stops Water Leaks & Radon Gas, Drill-Free Filler"
brand: "radonseal"
price: "₱21386"
currency: PHP
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 7
category: "Radon Seal"
url: https://www.desertcart.ph/products/2392221-complete-diy-foundation-crack-repair-kit-10-ft-low-viscosity
store_origin: PH
region: Philippines
---

# Waterproof sealant Drill-free injection Radon & gas barrier Complete DIY Foundation Crack Repair Kit, 10 Ft - Low-Viscosity Urethane Injection Sealant for Crawl Spaces & Concrete Basement Walls, Stops Water Leaks & Radon Gas, Drill-Free Filler

**Brand:** radonseal
**Price:** ₱21386
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🛠️ Seal smart, live dry — the ultimate DIY foundation fix!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Complete DIY Foundation Crack Repair Kit, 10 Ft - Low-Viscosity Urethane Injection Sealant for Crawl Spaces & Concrete Basement Walls, Stops Water Leaks & Radon Gas, Drill-Free Filler by radonseal
- **How much does it cost?** ₱21386 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.ph](https://www.desertcart.ph/products/2392221-complete-diy-foundation-crack-repair-kit-10-ft-low-viscosity)

## Best For

- radonseal enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted radonseal brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Dual Protection Barrier:** Blocks radon gas and soil contaminants, securing your basement’s air quality.
- • **Interior-Only Application:** Save thousands by repairing from inside—no exterior excavation needed.
- • **Effortless Drill-Free Repair:** Fix foundation cracks without damaging your walls or tools.
- • **Precision Low-Viscosity Urethane:** Injects smoothly with any standard caulking gun for a flawless seal.
- • **Permanent Hairline Crack Solution:** Stops water leaks and prevents costly structural damage.

## Overview

RadonSeal Complete DIY Foundation Crack Repair Kit offers a 10 ft low-viscosity, 2-part urethane foam injection system that seals hairline cracks in poured concrete basement walls without drilling. Designed for interior use, it provides a waterproof, radon-resistant barrier with 180 PSI tensile strength, ensuring long-lasting protection against water leaks and harmful soil gases.

## Description

RadonSeal Complete DIY Foundation Crack Repair Kit, 10 Ft - Low-Viscosity Urethane Injection Sealant for Crawl Spaces & Concrete Basement Walls, Stops Water Leaks & Radon Gas, Drill-Free Filler - Wall Surface Repair Products - desertcart.com

Review: Excellent repair kit, no way to improve on it - This kit is well-thought out, including from the crucial standpoint of safety (I write safety articles for trade magazines, and, yes, I wear both eye protection and hearing protection when operating a lawn mower). It comes with splash goggles and two pairs of protective gloves. They even tell you about the "trick" of putting on both pairs at the start of the job (something every person who works with paints and epoxies knows to do). The instructions are quite clear and easy to follow. I must admit I didn't quite follow, having gotten a little impatient with the first fill nozzle; instead of using low pressure and waiting as the video and the written instructions said to, I kept pumping. Oops, the stuff cam out that next hole a little too fast! Lesson learned, and easy enough to recover from. My big fear was I'd run out of the resin, but that didn't happen. This kit had exactly enough for the job. This did fix the leak. I waited until after several gully washers, including the worst mother of all rainstorms I have ever seen since living here, to write this review. The patch held up and no water came in. While this kit is pricey, it is worth its price. The savings over hiring a "professional firm" who likely will send a barely trained person to your home to do the job is huge. If you are careful about how you do your work, you will ensure the job is perfect and the leak will be permanently fixed; that's an advantage of this kit. However, I will state that if you're not the kind of person who has some craft capability (works with tools in any way), you probably should not tackle this job (or any other home repair job). The biggest part of any craft job is the preparation. That takes patience, methodology, and attention to detail; things you either learned from personal instruction or just don't get. If you don't have experience doing home repairs, car repairs, computer repairs or other sorts of "pay attention to what you're doing and take the time to do it right" hands-on work then don't attempt this job either. Hire a carpenter or your buddy who likes doing these sorts of things. The kit contains everything you need, except ventilation fans and a grease gun. If you're qualified to do this job, then you already have those things. These folks put a great deal of thought into this product, and that shows in many, many aspects. I can't think of any way to improve on this product. This job went so smoothly for me, I've let the neighbors know I'll be happy to fix their foundations if they need an assist. And, of course, I will insist that this kit be used.
Review: Take the time to get it right. This stuff works! No more leaking basement. - Had a hairline crack in basement wall that seeped every time it rained--and it rains a lot in our PA location. Selected Radonseal polyurethane based on a lot of research and the recommendation of a friend who is in heavy construction (highway overpasses, bridges, etc.) He knew exactly what I told him about (Oh yea. We use that @#$% all the time!") A couple of key things I focused on prior to using the product was prepping the wall. I removed all of the material applied by the previous owner (without success), including epoxy paint, hydraulic cement, roofing tar, caulking, and whatever else--about 15 pounds of material from a bulge of repeated attempts. It looked so bad I originally thought the form blew out, only to find he just put more material on top of the old. Took it all the way down to the original poured wall which was flat, including grinding (a mess) to make sure I removed everything that was stuck on from before. I washed the,are with Dawn (a miracle product) dish soap and water, and when that dried, I washed it down with a sponge and rubbing alcohol to get it as clean as possible. In the area where it leaked the most, I took a small concrete drill bit, set the bit two inches from the crack and drilled 45 degrees every eight inches to intersect the crack (I know you don't have to do this, but I thought I could get more of the polyurethane back into the crack. Since the crack was not the entire height of the wall, I figured I would take advantage of the extra nozzles available. Before I started, I made ten 8" X8" mixing boards for the epoxy. You can only use about a 1/2 teaspoon each of the black/white epoxy before it hardens, so better to use less and mix more often. As mentioned by others, the wooden spreaders that come with the kit are too flimsy, so I used plastic knives (picnic utensils) that worked much better. Mixed it up, set the nozzles, then pasted the crack as directed. Waited a full two hours for the epoxy to set. I glued the nozzle to those ports that I had drilled over 2-1/2 feet of the crack, and placed nozzles over the crack as directed. Prior to gluing the nozzles to the wall, I washed it down again with rubbing alcohol, and used a heat gun to get it dry as possible. Used the water bottle provided, and flushed each nozzle and crack from top-to-bottom until clear water flowed. (Note, not all nozzles would communicate to the nozzle below it, but made sure every nozzle took a lot of water (the water is what causes the polyurethane to expand--so don't skimp on the water flushing). I must have used six bottles of water to get al 15 nozzles flushed. I know some people mentioned they had problems with the injection tube leaking. My set up worked flawlessly following the directions provided. Started at the bottom nozzle as directed--figuring a minimum of four (4) minutes at each nozzle. The flex tube attaches very tightly to the nozzle--so that all worked well. At each nozzle I would pump first for 30 seconds, then wait 30 seconds, then pumped again for ~15 seconds until I could no longer pump into the crack. I held constant pressure on the gun the entire time. I figured this would allow the polyurethane to penetrate and begin to set before I pumped again. In some cases I could pump after the second time. In the part of the crack that seeped the most, it took a lot of poly during the first 30 second pump. After the first 30 seconds of pumping and ten waiting 30 seconds, it surprised me at how much more material it would take (I wonder how much poly set up on the outside of the wall?). After the second 30 second pumping it began to be more difficult to pump. Pump 30-Wait 30-Pump 30....and then it tightened-up significantly. I barely got a third pump into the nozzle, and then held pressure on it for about another 2 minutes. Tried to pump again but could not do it. Moved up to the next nozzle. Same process for the next nozzle in the high seep area, but couldn't pump into it for as long as the first, and the poly fluid started to seep from the nozzle above (I considered this good). Finished up the balance of the nozzles, drained all of he hoses, cleaned-up and called it good. I had about 3/4 of a tube remaining that I decided to save in the event I need to repeat the process. Note: I had a couple of nozzles "blow out" at the edge where the nozzle is attached to the wall. Looks as if I did not get the epoxy spread thick enough. Then again, when the poly begins to expand, it's extremely dense and it has to go some where. I also had poly push out the nozzle cap on two nozzles. I thought this was a positive, in that I had enough poly in the crack that it had no where to go but out towards the nozzle (the weakest point). Next day I removed the nozzles and started to remove the epoxy from the crack as shown in the video CD. After about 15 minutes, and a lot of hammering and chiseling, I called it for the day (or life?) Stuff is damn tough to remove, a lot of work, and a huge mess. Cancelled! Done! I thought about grinding it off (for about 10 seconds) but the epoxy dust is not something I want in my home, so that won't happen either. Per the recommendations of other users on here, use the gloves and lay down a large sheet of plastic. As for the gloves. I would put two pairs on at one time, that way when the outside pair gets nasty you just peel them off and the new pair is there. I used a couple of extra sets of gloves (two pairs to apply the epoxy, another two pairs to apply the polyurethane (as you get the polyurethane on your hands when inserting the plug into the nozzle as they drip when you remove the injection tube.) Give yourself plenty of room to work, and take your time. BTW, the epoxy and hardener when mixing is extremely foul-smelling. Make sure you are in an area that is ventilated as it is pretty nauseous. Report after three weeks. We have had three major storms of 3", 2.5" and 2 inches and some minor rains of 1/2" or more. Previously, the wall would have seeped with each and every rain. Since I used the Radonseal product--nothing. No seeping, not even a sweating where the crack is. I can tell you from past experience I would have had some water puddle on the floor, or in the lighter rains some sweating on the crack --but after the treatment, nothing. The wall is completely dry from top to bottom.

## Features

- Drill-Free Injection: Repair basement wall cracks effortlessly without drilling, ensuring minimal disruption to your home's structure.
- Simple Application: Use a standard caulking gun to inject the low-viscosity, 2-component urethane, making the process accessible for any homeowner.
- Effective Hairline Crack Repair: Seal even the smallest cracks permanently with the specialized urethane, preventing further water seepage and damage.
- Interior Repair Advantage: Save on costly excavation by repairing cracks from inside your basement, maintaining exterior aesthetics and structural integrity.
- Comprehensive Protection: This solution not only protects against water but also acts as a barrier against radon and soil gases, safeguarding your basement environment.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Color | Grey |
| Brand | RadonSeal |
| Liquid Volume | 22 Fluid Ounces |
| Item Form | Foam |
| Maximum Gap Fill | 0.5 Inches |
| Surface Recommendation | Poured Concrete Walls |
| Tensile Strength | 180 PSI |
| Water Resistance Level | Waterproof |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Manufacturer | Novion |
| UPC | 856255006058 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
| Material | 2-Part Expanding Urethane Foam |
| Part Number | 301 |
| Item model number | 301 |
| Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Included Components | repair kit |
| Batteries Included? | No |
| Batteries Required? | No |

## Product Details

- **Color:** Grey
- **Brand:** RadonSeal
- **Liquid Volume:** 22 Fluid Ounces
- **Item Form:** Foam
- **Maximum Gap Fill:** 0.5 Inches

## Images

![Complete DIY Foundation Crack Repair Kit, 10 Ft - Low-Viscosity Urethane Injection Sealant for Crawl Spaces & Concrete Basement Walls, Stops Water Leaks & Radon Gas, Drill-Free Filler - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71kR5oSnXQL.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: Is this strong enough to "push back" toward the exterior of the wall? ie, is it better than the products where you drill behind the crack?**
A: Ben - I am not an expert by any means - but I can tell you my experience.  This is a low pressure product - meaning that the "pressure" comes from VERY slow use of a caulk gun.  That being said - this is an expanding foam type of product - it goes in as a very thin liquid and once activated foams and flls the crack - even hair line ones.   The directions say that as long as you are below grade you do not have to seal the outside - well apparently the very top of our crack was above grade - when I went outside I could see the product had foamed to the outside.  This means it went from a small hailine crack - through the wall  - all the way to the exterior wall.  I used this product to fill two areas with cracks  that had leaked for a long time.  It's been a few months now - and lots of rain - and we are still very dry.  No drilling was required.  I hope this helps.

**Q: Can u use this product will water actively coming out of the wall or does it need to be dry? Once the solution is applied. do u need to wet the wa**
A: Foundation cracks cannot be repair while actively leaking. The surface sealer and port adhesive requires a dry surface to properly cure and adhere. The injection foam can be used when the crack is wet. In fact, part if the injection process includes injecting water to assist in the foam expansion.

**Q: What is the size of the port adhesive containers? eg ounces**
A: Each jar is 8-ounces or .25 quarts.

**Q: Have several cracks, some are substantial size, how much surface area does this kit cover?**
A: ONE (1) RadonSeal® DIY Crack Injection Kit roughly fills 8-10 linear feet of cracks in poured concrete walls, from hairline to 1/2" wide. If there is a large void behind the wall or the urethane wastefully runs down towards the footings, it can consume more polyurethane foam, typically in the lowest injection port. You can order additional cartridges by calling RadonSeal®. Twenty-foot kits are available on Amazon®.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Excellent repair kit, no way to improve on it
*by M***A on July 10, 2015*

This kit is well-thought out, including from the crucial standpoint of safety (I write safety articles for trade magazines, and, yes, I wear both eye protection and hearing protection when operating a lawn mower). It comes with splash goggles and two pairs of protective gloves. They even tell you about the "trick" of putting on both pairs at the start of the job (something every person who works with paints and epoxies knows to do). The instructions are quite clear and easy to follow. I must admit I didn't quite follow, having gotten a little impatient with the first fill nozzle; instead of using low pressure and waiting as the video and the written instructions said to, I kept pumping. Oops, the stuff cam out that next hole a little too fast! Lesson learned, and easy enough to recover from. My big fear was I'd run out of the resin, but that didn't happen. This kit had exactly enough for the job. This did fix the leak. I waited until after several gully washers, including the worst mother of all rainstorms I have ever seen since living here, to write this review. The patch held up and no water came in. While this kit is pricey, it is worth its price. The savings over hiring a "professional firm" who likely will send a barely trained person to your home to do the job is huge. If you are careful about how you do your work, you will ensure the job is perfect and the leak will be permanently fixed; that's an advantage of this kit. However, I will state that if you're not the kind of person who has some craft capability (works with tools in any way), you probably should not tackle this job (or any other home repair job). The biggest part of any craft job is the preparation. That takes patience, methodology, and attention to detail; things you either learned from personal instruction or just don't get. If you don't have experience doing home repairs, car repairs, computer repairs or other sorts of "pay attention to what you're doing and take the time to do it right" hands-on work then don't attempt this job either. Hire a carpenter or your buddy who likes doing these sorts of things. The kit contains everything you need, except ventilation fans and a grease gun. If you're qualified to do this job, then you already have those things. These folks put a great deal of thought into this product, and that shows in many, many aspects. I can't think of any way to improve on this product. This job went so smoothly for me, I've let the neighbors know I'll be happy to fix their foundations if they need an assist. And, of course, I will insist that this kit be used.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Take the time to get it right. This stuff works! No more leaking basement.
*by F***4 on July 23, 2018*

Had a hairline crack in basement wall that seeped every time it rained--and it rains a lot in our PA location. Selected Radonseal polyurethane based on a lot of research and the recommendation of a friend who is in heavy construction (highway overpasses, bridges, etc.) He knew exactly what I told him about (Oh yea. We use that @#$% all the time!") A couple of key things I focused on prior to using the product was prepping the wall. I removed all of the material applied by the previous owner (without success), including epoxy paint, hydraulic cement, roofing tar, caulking, and whatever else--about 15 pounds of material from a bulge of repeated attempts. It looked so bad I originally thought the form blew out, only to find he just put more material on top of the old. Took it all the way down to the original poured wall which was flat, including grinding (a mess) to make sure I removed everything that was stuck on from before. I washed the,are with Dawn (a miracle product) dish soap and water, and when that dried, I washed it down with a sponge and rubbing alcohol to get it as clean as possible. In the area where it leaked the most, I took a small concrete drill bit, set the bit two inches from the crack and drilled 45 degrees every eight inches to intersect the crack (I know you don't have to do this, but I thought I could get more of the polyurethane back into the crack. Since the crack was not the entire height of the wall, I figured I would take advantage of the extra nozzles available. Before I started, I made ten 8" X8" mixing boards for the epoxy. You can only use about a 1/2 teaspoon each of the black/white epoxy before it hardens, so better to use less and mix more often. As mentioned by others, the wooden spreaders that come with the kit are too flimsy, so I used plastic knives (picnic utensils) that worked much better. Mixed it up, set the nozzles, then pasted the crack as directed. Waited a full two hours for the epoxy to set. I glued the nozzle to those ports that I had drilled over 2-1/2 feet of the crack, and placed nozzles over the crack as directed. Prior to gluing the nozzles to the wall, I washed it down again with rubbing alcohol, and used a heat gun to get it dry as possible. Used the water bottle provided, and flushed each nozzle and crack from top-to-bottom until clear water flowed. (Note, not all nozzles would communicate to the nozzle below it, but made sure every nozzle took a lot of water (the water is what causes the polyurethane to expand--so don't skimp on the water flushing). I must have used six bottles of water to get al 15 nozzles flushed. I know some people mentioned they had problems with the injection tube leaking. My set up worked flawlessly following the directions provided. Started at the bottom nozzle as directed--figuring a minimum of four (4) minutes at each nozzle. The flex tube attaches very tightly to the nozzle--so that all worked well. At each nozzle I would pump first for 30 seconds, then wait 30 seconds, then pumped again for ~15 seconds until I could no longer pump into the crack. I held constant pressure on the gun the entire time. I figured this would allow the polyurethane to penetrate and begin to set before I pumped again. In some cases I could pump after the second time. In the part of the crack that seeped the most, it took a lot of poly during the first 30 second pump. After the first 30 seconds of pumping and ten waiting 30 seconds, it surprised me at how much more material it would take (I wonder how much poly set up on the outside of the wall?). After the second 30 second pumping it began to be more difficult to pump. Pump 30-Wait 30-Pump 30....and then it tightened-up significantly. I barely got a third pump into the nozzle, and then held pressure on it for about another 2 minutes. Tried to pump again but could not do it. Moved up to the next nozzle. Same process for the next nozzle in the high seep area, but couldn't pump into it for as long as the first, and the poly fluid started to seep from the nozzle above (I considered this good). Finished up the balance of the nozzles, drained all of he hoses, cleaned-up and called it good. I had about 3/4 of a tube remaining that I decided to save in the event I need to repeat the process. Note: I had a couple of nozzles "blow out" at the edge where the nozzle is attached to the wall. Looks as if I did not get the epoxy spread thick enough. Then again, when the poly begins to expand, it's extremely dense and it has to go some where. I also had poly push out the nozzle cap on two nozzles. I thought this was a positive, in that I had enough poly in the crack that it had no where to go but out towards the nozzle (the weakest point). Next day I removed the nozzles and started to remove the epoxy from the crack as shown in the video CD. After about 15 minutes, and a lot of hammering and chiseling, I called it for the day (or life?) Stuff is damn tough to remove, a lot of work, and a huge mess. Cancelled! Done! I thought about grinding it off (for about 10 seconds) but the epoxy dust is not something I want in my home, so that won't happen either. Per the recommendations of other users on here, use the gloves and lay down a large sheet of plastic. As for the gloves. I would put two pairs on at one time, that way when the outside pair gets nasty you just peel them off and the new pair is there. I used a couple of extra sets of gloves (two pairs to apply the epoxy, another two pairs to apply the polyurethane (as you get the polyurethane on your hands when inserting the plug into the nozzle as they drip when you remove the injection tube.) Give yourself plenty of room to work, and take your time. BTW, the epoxy and hardener when mixing is extremely foul-smelling. Make sure you are in an area that is ventilated as it is pretty nauseous. Report after three weeks. We have had three major storms of 3", 2.5" and 2 inches and some minor rains of 1/2" or more. Previously, the wall would have seeped with each and every rain. Since I used the Radonseal product--nothing. No seeping, not even a sweating where the crack is. I can tell you from past experience I would have had some water puddle on the floor, or in the lighter rains some sweating on the crack --but after the treatment, nothing. The wall is completely dry from top to bottom.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Review
*by B***E on April 2, 2023*

Overall it was great to use. When it comes to the mix that is used to attach the ports and cover the crack I think if you were going to get 10 feet out of it you would have to really use it sparingly. One tip I found that worked really well was to soak the injection tubes in warm/hot water before using. It made it flow really easy into the ports and then into the crack. I would definitely use this again especially where it has everything you need.

## Frequently Bought Together

- RadonSeal Complete DIY Foundation Crack Repair Kit - 10 Ft - Low-Viscosity Urethane Injection Sealant for Crawl Spaces & Concrete Basement Walls, Stops Water Leaks & Radon Gas, Drill-Free Filler
- Liquid Rubber Basement and Foundation Repair Sealant - Waterproof Concrete Sealer & Crack Filler - Flexible Coating for Indoor & Outdoor Use - Waterproofing Paint - Black, 5 Gallon
- Applied Technologies 6-10' Fast Set Concrete Foundation Crack Repair Kit - Hydra Stop 300 Polyurethane Foam for Wall Cracks, Prevents Basement Flooding, Quick-Setting Waterproof Sealing Solution

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*Product available on Desertcart Philippines*
*Store origin: PH*
*Last updated: 2026-02-05*