ANYCUBIC Ultrabase 3D Printer Platforms, Heated Bed with Microporous Coating Build Surface Glass Plate (430 * 410mm Ultrabase+Heated bed)

Bought 2 of these beauties after reading so many good reviewsInstalled the first on my Anet A8 and thought to myself"These are great why didn't I get one earlier. No need for clips as they have adhesive backing on the glass plate. The cabling is sleeved so no more lose cables to get caught on motors. No more need for spray or tape. Build sticks to bed and when cooled down just lifts off."And to top it off the plate is perfectly flatFirst two builds not a problemOn the third build, 5hrs into a 9hr build -- System Halted MINTEMP reached - Error Hotbed MINTEMP reached - Please ResetConnection seems fine at mainboard. Takes Hotbed off and lo and behold there is the culprit, THERMISTOR Wire has snapped at the solder pointIt's ok I have a second bed, I'll just install that and start again.Check wiring, install bed, level bed, recheck all ... power onALL temp sensors registering and system seems fineLoad Callibration Cube, as I do everytime I do a bed levelling processPrinter starts to printDon't even get the "Skirt" laid down when ......System Halted MINTEMP reached - Error Hotbed MINTEMP reached - Please ResetAGAIN the Thermistor cable has detached from the solder point++++++++ FIXED++++++++++Updated to 5 StarsMY own faultInstalled hot bed in the default rear position, bent cabling causing the snapsReinstalled with cable chain and works perfectlyPhoto added showing new setup

I had a rubbish 3D printer kit from Amazon - I won't mention the vendor but it was a Prusa i3 compatible bought some years ago, and it was falling apart. So I bought myself a new printer - an Anycubic Chiron. I was so impressed with the heated bed that I bought this new bed for my old 3d printer. It's a bit like an old broom where I've replaced the handle 3 times and the brush twice, but I still call it "the old broom" - well, this is my "old 3D printer" - and it now has an Anycubic Ultrabase aluminium / glass heated bed.Since it's suitable for a 220 mm by 220 mm 3d printer I took a punt that it would fit my old Prusa i3 compatible - and it does, beautifully. One change I've had to make is to raise the bed via 4 black "spacers" as the bolts they provide are quite long and interfered with the acrylic case of my old printer - but these bolts are well worth keeping as they sit in the aluminium bed, in countersunk holes. This lets you put the glass top above them and means you can use the whole bed to print on - no avoiding the bolts in the corners any more!FLATTER - one of my gripes with my old heated bed was that it was bowed. The new Anycubic Ultrabase is flatter to begin with, but the glass top just reinforces that.GRIPPIER - is that even a word? The glass top isn't perfectly smooth (which would be good) but is designed with microscopic "bumps" that make it "sticky" without using any glue. Just try running a cloth across it and you'll see what I mean.FASTER - as it's flatter AND grippier, I can print things faster. It's not magic - I can't suddenly print multi-colour materials at the speed of light - but the improvement is appreciated.Naturally I've printed a bunch of 3D "calibration" items (like the cubes) and printer-enhancement items (like the cable chain) but I'm also printing out things that help with the real-world as they occur to me. The photo does't show the "garden shed spacer" that lifts one door on my shed, or the mobile phone stand, or the mobile phone to car converter that I haven't finished designing yet - but those AND the included images were printed on the Ultrabase bed. I particularly like the "nut wheels" that I've printed out to make calibrating the bed on the old printer easier - I used to need to hold pliers in one hand, a screwdriver in the other hand, and move the print head and bed with my third hand to calibrate the bed. Now I don't need the pliers OR the screwdriver! I'm waiting for a new (aluminium) Y-Chassis to arrive next, which should about finish turning my tired old 3D printer into a new machine altogether. So far though, the Ultrabase had been the best upgrade I could have made.

At first I could not make anything stick to this. No amount of cleaning would fix it, but after rubbing the surface well with some 1000 grit paper then cleaning down with some 99% alcohol it has been great for PLA.You have to remember to wipe it down between every print and if you do get any release during printing a brief rub with 1000 grit again (i've only had to do this again once) and its good to go again.Briefly tried ABS and it didn't stick at all, although this may have been my setup.Fitted to an Anet A8, with e3d v6 via bowden, bltouch and ramps 1.4.Comes well packaged and wiring is pre soldered to the PCB. Wire looks to be a good quality and silicon insulated.

I've been using Kalton Tape and a Mirror for my print bed, but it was far from flat.I'm refurbishing some of my printers and took delivery of this yesterday and quickly installed onto an old Prusa Clone i3.The top surface of the heated bed is copper, which will help with conduction and provide more even heating. The lower side has options for 12 and 24V If you are lucky enough to use 24V for your printer, you'll see a quicker heat-up if you use this option.The thermistor and header were checked, I then levelled and found it to be much flatted than the old tile.Test prints so far have been very very good. Excellent adhesion, but you do need to allow the bed to cool down before your item can be removed.Trying to pull it off the bed too soon just won't work, but my experience is that leaving it to cool below 40degC allows it to just lift off.So, I'm about to buy a 2nd unit today.I'd suggest you consider a method of securing the heater and thermistor cables. leaving them to flex on the solder joints is going to fail at some point (possibly leading to a short circuit on the heater). This is a problem with most heated beds and isn't a design issue with just this one.Ideally cable tie the loom to the wooden/metal base of your Y Axis frame so any strain does not flex the solder joints.