GE WH38X10017 Shaft and Mode Shifter Assembly for Washer

Exact replacement..Repaired all the woes we had in our washing machine .

My GE washer was so loud during the spin cycle it was unbearable. I notice rust had accumulated around the mode shifter and bottom pan. I could see water dripping down the shaft. So I ordered this mode shifter along with washer belt, tub bearing washer, tub bearing, split ring, hub nut, and supco TB123A spanner wrench. Modeshifter comes with the tub seal. Be sure to have patients beating the tub nut off (CW off) using spanner wrench. You will need tyraps to get the new belt back on. See YouTube videos. I replaced all these parts put the machine back together and it still had a leak due to worn out tub seal seat were the tub seal presses in. So I ordered a new tub, took it all apart put it back together again and Walla. Sounds and runs like brand new. Oh and to make sure I put a thin film of Indian head gasket shellac in and around tub seal before insertion to make sure no leaks would occur. 1 months now still good.Update: It's been over 3 years since repair and washer is still running good. Quiet and no leaks!

item looks and works perfect, been running for months and no problems.

I installed this mode shifter/transmission on the above mentioned clothes washer. We have had our washer since 2007 and were dreading making the big purchase of another washer so we purchased this item in hopes of possibly not having to buy a new washer. The installation took me approximately 3 hours, I have never done this kind of work on an appliance before but I am pretty good with mechanical stuff. The biggest problem is removing the locking nut that is under the agitator. Even after purchasing the tool to remove it, it was still a little hard but a little of persistence and patience paid off in the long run. If you are going to replace the one in your washer, I would Strongly recommend you purchase the tool as well. The symptoms of our washer were loud clanking sounds at any wash cycle. Upon following the diagnostics offered by other people on the internet, I opened the front of the washer and began a cycle and noticed that instead of the agitator spinning by itself, the entire tub was agitating back and forth, hence the tub would hit a metal grove on the bottom pan and make the clanking sound. Once I replaced the mode shifter, the washer is back to whisper quiet like it used to be when it was new. A couple of notes of interest, the shifter mode itself does not have tapped bolt holes, however, if you look at the bolts themselves, you will notice they are self tapping bolts. This allows you to create the thread as you are tightening the bolts. You will also need a torque wrench in order to torque the bolts to the appropriate recommendation listed in the instructions. Detailed instructions on how to disassemble a similar washer can be found on youtube by typing in keywords of mode shifter replacement. During my disassembly I cleaned out the entire tub and this in itself added time to the repair. By taking into consideration the notes above and being prepared, replacing your own unit will be a breeze and best of all, you will save hundreds of dollars in repairs and the expense of a new washer. Happy repairing!!!

My GE washers (GTWN4450M1WS) is notorious for a failed transmission bearing which causes loud noise and vibration when spinning. The bearing is not a replaceable. The only solution (unless you're a major tinkerer like the one guy on youtube) is to replace the entire part. Since it's worth the price of the transmission :) don't skimp on replacing some other parts because some will be damaged during removal and some were damaged by the bad transmission bearing. The transmission includes a new washing machine tub seal (WH02X10383) so you won't need that individual part. From the bottom up replace the washing machine washer (WH2X1197), washing machine hub washer (WH2X1199), split ring (WH02X10265), and the hub nut (WH2X1193). Finally, BUY the tub nut spanner wrench (TB123A). Seriously.As the videos indicate removing the hub nut is made much easier with the spanning wrench. It will require a clockwise beating (left hand screw) to get it off. Make sure you hammer on the new hub nut counterclockwise. I aligned some tape on the hub nut and inner tub to mark where I started to hammer on the spanner wrench after the hub nut was finger tight. The hub nut tightened almost/about a quarter turn.When the transmission bearing went bad it ruined the tub seal (one comes with the transmission), and the tub "bearing" may also be rusty. I also replaced the "bearing" (WH2X1198). My was rusty from the water leaking down the transmission shaft past the failed tub seal. It was difficult to remove so use a socket the same diameter to "punch" it out from inside the outer tub or use a chisel on the lip to hammer it out. The videos made it look like it could be removed from the outside by prying it out, and some obviously can be removed that way. Not mine.So, all in for about $240. Definitely worth it.