DOBSTFY 3D Printing Build Surface, 3D Printer Heat Bed Platform Sticker Sheet, 12" x 12" Square with Premium Adhesive for CR-10 / CR-10S,Hictop CR-10, Hictop Hero d3 3D Printers 310X310MM (Pack of 4)

I've been using blue tape for years on the 3D printers at work. While that works, it is a pain to separate some parts without damaging the tape, resulting in the need to apply more tape.This material is ideal for this application. PLA prints stick very well. I use a thin (sharpened) putty knife and the prints pop right off. Before I print again, I wipe the material down with ethyl alcohol, then wipe dry. I've done dozens of prints, all come out excellent. Even small parts bond well. I typically run the bed temperature at 60C. Not seeing much wear of the material yet, but I'm careful not to gouge the surface with the putty knife.I have a Creality CR-10S, and the 12x12 sheets fit perfectly.

UPDATE 2: I'm putting my review back down to 1 star. I've been using this stuff more and have come to realize that it really is the worst of both worlds. I've continued to have trouble getting the first layer to adhere properly. While generally things that have large surface area on the first layer will manage as long as you have a purge line and a skirt, anything with first layer detail, like 3DBenchy, is just impossible to print.Yet somehow, once the materials DOES manage to adhere, it will NEVER come up. I've torn up several of these sheets because I can't get the prints to release. I've tried removing them hot, waiting for them to cool, waiting for them to cool then reheating the bed, everything.I can't in good conscience recommend this stuff to anyone. Get a PEI sheet if you're willing to spend, and if not, stick with painter's tape.UPDATE: I'm updating my review to 3 stars. The stuff isn't by any means the magic that is seems to be advertised and reviewed as, but once you figure out how to make things adhere properly, it actually does hold fairly well.The trick is that you need a purge line. With painters tape and PEI, I've been able to simply extrude a bit of feed stock in the corner to prime the extruder, but with this stuff, doing that resulted in the skirt not sticking. By switching from feed stock to a purge line, now the skirt seems to stick pretty well.I've still had some issues with peeling in certain cases, but on the whole, the surface is usable. A suitable surface for the low price. I still do prefer PEI and BuiltTak, but if you're looking to save a few bucks, this stuff will do.ORIGINAL REVIEW: The adhesion on this stuff is terrible. Even PETG, which sticks to everything, was sliding around. Don't waste your money. Get some BuildTak or PEI and save yourself the headaches.

When using with ABS do not exceed 70 C. The build surface warps and becomes unusable at 100 C. I did not carefully read the instructions and destroyed one this way. Allow the surface to cool for easy removal with PLA, do not use sharp objects to remove the build since this material is a bit soft and can be damaged. These build surfaces solved my bed adhesion issues. This is after trying several bed temperatures and clearances and several nozzle temperatures. If anything, the builds are often difficult to remove unless cool. The build surface is tough and I have not damaged it yet while removing the projects but care is necessary. I am using it on top of a glass bed. It would probably be easier to deal with if I was using a flexible bed.It was easy to install and I had no issues with bubbles, just start from one edge and slowly let it work its way across the bed. It seems it would be easy to trim to size with scissors if needed, but my build plate is 12 inches by 12 inches so it fit perfectly.It is difficult to remove the surface but possible, you will probably need to use something like goo-gone to remove all traces of adhesive. I usually use 97% ETOH to clean the surface and this seems to work well. Using brake cleaner leaves a white haze on the bed which can be removed with soap and water. Brake cleaner is my preferred cleaner for glass beds. It is a mixture of ETOH and Acetone. Tetrachloroethylene based brake cleaners also work, but are probably more toxic and harder to find.

I will update this after longer use to determine durability. However, for the price, it's quite the deal. I have found PLA almost sticks too well, yet I was still able to get a large print off without tearing the sheet, which says a lot. PETG and ABS do well also. Unlike some build plate materials I've used, you do not want to squish too much or you may never get it off. So something as a printer you have to decide is how well do you want to see the first layer lines. On glass you can smush the first layer till you get nearly a smooth base surface. On this material, similar to build-tak you want to give that first layer a bit more room so you can get it to release. This surface leaves a light texture, and the build lines are a more distinct due to the less required smush.

Overall I really love the Dobstfy build surface. I have had owned these for almost a year now and I have exclusively used these on my Artillery Sidewinder SX1. My first sheet I pulled off after several prints that would no longer clean up. I considered that normal wear but I found the sheet was a real pain to remove, so I had to use a hot air gun to get the Dobstfy surface to release from the glass bed along with a lot of scraping with non marring tools. I honestly don't look forward to the next change in build surfaces. Now the 2nd sheet I am currently on, after a few months of downtime, is back up and running. I did notice a bubble had formed almost like a blister under the center of the surface after not using it for that long time. I'm going to see if they back up their claim to lifetime warranty with this.