J-B Weld UV Tabletop Epoxy Resin, 1 Gallon Kit, Cures Clear, Fast Cure Time, Minimal Bubbling, Scratch & Water Resistant

To start ignore the backsplash the shiplap that will be installed is drying. I bought this epoxy in a pinch because of shipping times. I hadn't seen a lot on it but have worked with ProMarine, MAS, Total Boat epoxy to do various projects. MAS probably being my favorite but this epoxy worked great. Now this is much different in terms of viscosity. This stuff is THIN much thinner to mix than all of the others but it almost water clear when poured. I used the Stone Coat method of measuring how much to use and used 3oz per square foot and it covered awesome. I said thin at first but it seemed to thicken when it hit the surface because then is acted like the other epoxy (didn't kick or cure) weird but thickened up when I started to lay it out.The epoxy took colors like any other but the metallic powders really wanted to settle. Spray paints did what they do with Metallics. Aki White, Shadow Grey metallic powders from Eye Candy and White Spray paint and Hammered Silver Spray paint.The epoxy did not at all like being torched. It heated up super fast and I almost scorched a spot. I really didn't see a lot of air built up when mixing the epoxy but used a torch like I have on all of the others. Check for bubbles you may not need to torch or if you do use a heat gun.Dryer over night to a point to where I could continue working in the room without damaging the epoxy. 48 hours rock hard.I didn't demo the old looking tile wraps on the countertops but this was a utility room and really was just being lazy. I still think they turned out great especially for the application and if you have negative things to say (wellllllllll.....) it's my countertop and I'm happy so jog on.Pros- super clear Easy to mix Accepts all colors it seems Lays flatCons- colors settle for some reason DOES NOT LIKE HEAT Not much else.Conclusion- great as long as you're not in a kitchen (no heat). Awesome working time. Additives don't affect it. Drying times to sand and recoat are awesome. Very very happy with how this worked out for a spur of the moment buy and project.I'll update if any issues arise (yellowing, delamination) but I don't see many if all coming from this epoxy.

I was making some daytime running lights for my old Mustang out of some LED units I bought elsewhere. I wanted a way to make them discrete and fit between the horizontal grill strips on the car but there was no way to attach the LED units themselves. I found this product, which is supposed to resist yellowing due to UV. It's super easy to use. I made a mold, then used the resin to cast the body of the DRLs with the LEDs inside. Following the directions, the product worked very well and I'm very happy with the results.

I had no idea JB Weld made this. It's a really great product, though it has some iffy and tedious directions for using it ... temp, etc., that I summarily ignored.I just mixed it as normal and everything went very well. Crystal clear and very hard where I'd gotten rid of bubbles.Now, bubbles. It's really no better than any other resin with the exception of a couple of things:1. If you are making a small batch and have something to heat the resin to remove the bubbles (like a coffee cup warmer), it's brilliant. I'm going to assume the bubbles I got were the result of trapped air that didn't surface until well over 30 minutes because I was encasing embroidery. To be expected and I figured out how to correct for that and it wasn't the "fault" of the resin.2. I do short pours, or those that I repour to embed objects before the initial layer is hard-cured. You can do this with most resins over a 3-5 hour period after pouring.The instructions said that it's cured to touch in 5 hours and cured in 12. Because I still wanted it to be a bit boggy (because of what I was imbedding), I erred on the 3 hour side.NOPE. Let it sit until the "cured to touch" stage, or at the very least 4 hours.At 3 hours, while I could imbed the thing over the initial pour for a colored background, it wasn't cured enough so that the thing still moved by motion of (oops) leftover bubbles (threadwork ... lots of holes I didn't fill with clear sealer enough before pouring) ... and the object was pushed by the bubbles to one side, which caused the very edge of the imbedded thing to be just above the final surface ... and that meant I couldn't clean it up. Also, some of the resin from the first pour actually crept up into the second pour, which, in the case I used it, was pretty cool. But if you want a clean delineation, then wait the 5 hours.SO, this is great, crystal clear resin that cures in half the time of some other resins. HOWEVER, if you're embedding something, you have to wait until somewhere between 4.5 and 5 hours or what you put in may shift, sink, float, or whatever you didn't want to happen.Honestly, I used to use Ice Resin before it was bought by Ranger (and marked up to unreasonable levels because of the name "Ranger" ... and it's not the same as before). Ice Resin used to de-gas quickly no matter how vigorously you stirred. Now, not so much.Don't buy from Ranger. It's SO expensive! Even if you know that a product you used previously was perfect at half the price before purchase. Ice Resin isn't the same and that made me sad. Ice resin was the best, but now is owned by Ranger, so the original folks have no control ... and Ranger is twice as expensive as it needs to be for just about everything ... so ... This JB weld option is very close.JB Weld stuff is pretty close at a fraction of the cost. However, you must be careful as to how you mix, as with most other resins. Be sure you are mixing as close to the exact amounts. Ice Resin was more forgiving. If you're going to use this for professional purposes, buy a scale and measure by weight, like a lot of other resins recommend.Oh, and DON'T ever use popsicle sticks to mix. I know, seems like all manufacturers send wood sticks to stir because it's cheap ...But wood has grain, which means it has holes. Those holes hold air, that off-gasses into your resin. Use silicone instead, or use recycled plastic, like plastic cutlery you get from a fast food place. Just use the handle.With the Ice Resin I used to use, it wasn't a thing. With the JB Weld, it is.

Just read the instructions & you'll have great results, as with any resin/epoxy project.Did my initial seal coat, let that cure overnight. Sanded with 400 grit & cleaned with acetone.Did my final flood coat, likewise let sit overnight & was very happy with the results.During the flood coat, I made sure to babysit the drips and keep brushing them away until the epoxy set enough to not want to drip. That took probably a good hour or so, but the results were worth it.Made sure to stick with the UV rated stuff as this will be living on a saltwater boat.Have more than enough left over if I need some for light touchups which should be super easy.