Core P1 Tempered Glass Open Frame

Pros:- fantastic cable management area- plenty of space to work around- solid vertical gpu mount- room/hardware for open loop cooling- can mount a 240mm radiator- looks PHENOMENAL with Good components- very sturdy and well builtCons:- comes with thermaltake's cheap pci extension cable- only has 1 2.5" ssd and 3.5" hard drive mount, unless you don't use the radiator- metal bracket inside the case is completely pointless- the motherboard spacer screws are really jenky and don't leave much room behind the mobo for cable routing- the case is very large and heavy for a mini itx build- the radiator mount width is only 122.5mm wide, so you can't mount a 280mm radiator and certain radiators, like the nzxt kraken x52 and corsair h100I v2, will not fit- it doesn't come with wall mounting hardware- the assembly instructions are absolutely horrendous; it boggles me that a company would make such a great case and hand out instructions seemingly written by a 5 year oldAll in all, if you want a great looking mini case then this is the best you'll get, but if you want a mini mini case then get something like the corsair v1.

**PROS:** nice to looks at, tempered glass; fits standard size PSU and mATX mobo; includes hardware for many different configurations.**CONS:** seems too big for an itx, but a little bit small for mATX. No mounting hardware for SFF PSU is included.This will fit a micro ATX (mATX) mobo, but with some overhang, depending on how you mount the board. It fits an itx as well, but an itx mobo will look tiny inside this case... not a bad thing, though, as you'll have tons of space for other stuff. It's easy to mount to the wall if you buy an extra fralt-screen-tv wall mounting bracket like this one: Timaik MM03-44T TV Wall Mount Bracket for 32-55 Inch LED, LCD and Plasma TVs up to VESA 400 x 400mm and 77 LBS Loading Capacity, With 14 Degrees of Smooth Tilt, Includes Bubble Level. The tempered glass is a nice bonus. The larger P3 model comes with plexiglass, but this one (the P1) comes with actual glass. I completely disagree with the youtuber who claims the hole labels (A, B, C) are useless because they're not explained in the manual. I think the hole labels will be self-explanatory to any human of average intelligence.Also, I bought an extra small (SFF) PSU for this case only to find that the PSU was TOO small! You have to do some McGuivering if you want to mount a SFF PSU in this case. A standard size PSU, on the other hand, mounts easily with the included hardware.

This chassis is wonderful to work with.Some reviews mentioned hard drive placement. I would say that if your going to use more then an M.2, look toward the larger p3 or p5. The internal space does have room for two hard drives inside, but this is precious space when it comes to cable routing. I removed both cages because I was using an M.2 and didn't need the storage. So I had tons of room in the case for cable management.And cable management is a mixed bag. Not a negative. Just make sure you plan a lot! Pre-run every cable. Unlike most cases, there isn't a ton of holes to pass cable through, so you have to really think about where things should go. Take your time, and it will be fine. Keep your peripherals to a minimum, and you should be good.I mounted a Kraken x52 on the right side mounting plate. According to previous reviews and information, the space here is limited so I grabbed the x52 instead of the x62. Trying to squeeze the radiator into the recess would have been tight, but I elected to mount the stock fans to the rear plate, pushing the rad out beyond the recess, then mounted some TT HD120's on the front, for a push pull (exhausting back as there is nice grill opening for just such a setup). It makes it nicer, and eliminates the issues others were having with mounting the rad. My thoughts on that are; you're buying an open air platform, put shiny fans on, and use the stock ones for the heavy lifting.The only word of caution I would have is Power supply cables. If you are thinking about some aftermarket parts, I would say go for it. They tend to be more flexible, and that flexibility will come in handy when trying to route your ATX power connector behind the board. If you are using stock connectors, then I would highly advise pre-flexing the cable either way.Last and most important. Take your time! It pays off in the end.