🎮 Elevate Your Game with GIGABYTE's Ultimate Monitor Experience!
The GIGABYTE M32UC is a 32-inch curved gaming monitor that delivers breathtaking 4K UHD visuals with a rapid 144Hz refresh rate and 1ms response time. Designed for gamers and professionals alike, it features advanced color accuracy, versatile connectivity options, and smart control features to enhance your productivity and gaming experience.
Standing screen display size | 31.5 Inches |
Screen Resolution | 3840x2160 |
Max Screen Resolution | 3840 x 2160 Pixels |
Number of USB 2.0 Ports | 1 |
Number of USB 3.0 Ports | 4 |
Brand | GIGABYTE |
Series | M32UC-SA |
Item model number | M32UC-SA |
Item Weight | 26 pounds |
Product Dimensions | 45 x 45 x 36 inches |
Item Dimensions LxWxH | 45 x 45 x 36 inches |
Color | M Series |
Voltage | 19 Volts (DC) |
Manufacturer | GIGABYTE |
ASIN | B09WPTKDQY |
Date First Available | March 28, 2022 |
N**.
In love with M32UC - Never going back to a Samsung
Edit: Be careful reading my review. It shows me as purchasing Curved|4K|IPS but this is an error on this listing's part, it's the VA Panel - M32UC which is in the actual product description.Update (7/29/23): CalibrationI went to rtings site to get info on applying some small calibrations. Out of the box, the color accuracy is pretty good, but I noticed a blue tint on whites. The white balance was also off. I selected the "Custom 1" color setting and also applied rting's icc color profile. It made my eyes feel a million times better and whites looked "true". For most people this may suffice, but I am very sensitive and took the brightness down additionally (after doing these things) to 53. You can ONLY adjust the brightness when using the custom profile.This is NOT a Vesa-certified HDR. I know some people may knock a start off for this, but I didn't. If you need to make adjustments to the monitor (as I described), you cannot use HDR anyway. HDR will force you to view everything at higher brightness anyway.Understanding what a VA panel monitor is and isn't:If you don't know much about VA monitors, understand that this type of monitor tends to work better for people that game/work in dimlight settings. They also tend to have better colors. Otherwise, IPS panels may be better all around for most other settings and they have better viewing angels. I also see some reviews talking about ghosting and smearing. There is zero point in getting this monitor if you don't go 120hz or higher. Bad VA monitors will suffer the worst in this case, but the Gigabyte does not. I dare say, I find it better than a comparable Samsung VA.Reasons I threw out my Samsung G5 and decided to go with the M32UC:I was getting fed up with my fishbowl looking Samsung 32 in G5. The curvature of the M32UC is an inch deep from the center point while the Samsung is a whopping two inches. At a 32 in size, you do NOT need that type of radical curvature. Mounting the M32UC was also a breeze unlike the Samsung.I play action RPGs, MMOs, and a few FPS games. I have a decked out system that easily handles 4k, and I wanted to continue sticking with a VA panel type monitor. I wanted something that was good and balanced for all types of games. I can’t stand IPS panels (they hurt my eyes) and I’m not some competitive esport player - but I still want an edge where I can while enjoying onscreen graphics.If you want a VA monitor with immersive graphics while playing games like Diablo 4, deep beautiful contrast, this is the monitor to get. I shopped around for a long time before settling on this monitor. My Radeon 6950 xt handles it beautifully at 4k 144hzMake sure you use a VESA-certified DP cable with it!! It comes with a good one, but it was too short for mounting purposes. This is not the type of monitor you want to run in HDMI even though it has the ports for it (unless you attaching other monitors for the KVM capability).KVM Switch: While it was not the reason I bought this monitor, the KVM switch surprised me at how well it works. In fact, it helped me get rid of my dual office setup. There are people that have been ranting about it, but there is a specific way to use it. First off, I did not download/use the software. I can't even install it anyway on my work laptop (it's restricted).Part 1 - Plugging in the commonly shared peripherals to be used between two computers sharing the same monitor- Plug Mouse into one of the 3 USB 3.0 ports on the monitor- Plug Keyboard into one of the 3 USB 3.0 ports on the monitorPart 2 - Connecting my main desktop/gaming/personal rig for KVM use- Plug in the DP cable between the monitor on the desktop- Plug in (included with monitor purchase) the USB type B (square-looking end) into the monitor, and plug in the other end (USB type a) into the desktop computer- Note that this alone should allow you to use your peripheral devices attached to the monitor regardless if you choose to use the KVM switch or notePart 3 - Connecting my company laptop for KVM use- Plug in an HDMI cable between the laptop and the monitor- Use a type C to C connector (must be bought separately). Plug in one end into the type c port on the monitor, and plug in the other end to the type c port on the laptop- Note you will also need to plug in a separate ethernet cable to the laptop, unless you use WIFI or whateverPart 4 - Final step to switch between the two computer- Go into your main menu on the monitor and then to the KVM settings- Assign your main/desktop using the Displayport cable to one switch- Assign your laptop/whatever using the HDMI (port 1) cable to the other switchYou can now use the KVM button to swap between the two computer. Note, it can take several seconds while you stare at a black screen.
C**R
Excellent choice for home office workers
I needed a monitor to replace my 28" 4k monitor with a TN panel. It was fine for my home PC, but when I started working 100% at home I wanted to use it for my work Mac as well. I used a USB-C to HDMI dongle and plugged the Mac into a spare HDMI port on the monitor. It was basically fine but certain text combinations like gray-on-gray were fuzzy. Black on white was fine when scaled up so I used that. Not ideal but I got by. For switching my mouse and keyboard, I used a cheap USB 2.0 hub and manually swapped between Mac and PC. Then I would manually select between video inputs on the monitor. This system worked, but after two years of it I decided it was time for an upgrade.I wanted to stick with 4k, but go slightly larger so I didn't have to sit so close. I did a couple days' research and settled on this monitor. It supports the latest protocols: DisplayPort 1.4, HDMI 2.1, USB-C, and AMD FreeSync. It even has a built in KVM switch.I connected my PC to one of the HDMI ports. My Nvidia 3080 supports HDMI 2.1 and Freesync, so I'm getting 4k at 144 kHz. Text is crisp, the colors are vibrant, and no ghosting that I can see when playing Deep Rock Galactic or Doom Eternal. I did have to up the brightness to 90% though. The larger screen means I can sit slightly farther back for the same resolution, meaning less neck strain.However, it didn't look good at all on the Mac, at first. The HDMI connection gave me the dreaded pink tinted screen. After Googling around, the general consensus is that comes from using a low end cable. So I tried USB-C. The monitor didn't recognize that at all.I went to Best Buy and got an official Apple USB-C cable. It took a while for the Mac to recognize the new monitor (driver install?) and then suddenly it popped into life. I also turned off font smoothing. Now the Mac looks terrific - 4k at 60 Hz with crisp text and no gray-on-gray fuzziness. Just in case, I also got a new HDMI cable that specifically said it supported HDMI 2.1. That did fix the pink screen issue. Now HDMI and USB-C look the same to me.For comparison, my 15.4" Macbook Pro retina screen has 220 DPI. A 32" 4k monitor has 138 DPI. That's a big drop, but with a larger monitor you can sit farther back. At my normal 24" viewing distance I'm not seeing much difference between this monitor and the Retina display.Then I tried the KVM switch. I plugged my mouse and keyboard into the monitor. For PC, there is an odd USB-B-with-an-extra-hump connector. For Mac, you use USB-C. In fact, that cable can carry video too. So that's two cables for keyboard and mouse (USB-A), two to the PC (HDMI2.1 and USB-B), and one to theMac (USB-C). Plus the power cable.Thanks to the people who mentioned the power switch underneath the monitor. That sucker is well hidden and the instructions are terrible -- they just say "Powering on" and point to the side of the monitor. The button is underneath. How many service calls and RMAs could they avoid by making that more clear?The included stand is really good. It is VESA-compatible and allows you to raise, tilt, and swivel. It even has a large slot for cable management.The KVM switch works surprisingly well. No major problems with it so far. One tap on the button and it switches between Mac and PC in about 3 seconds.However, the KVM switch automatically switches when one signal cuts off, which can be annoying. For example, when I reboot my PC and I want to see the BIOS screen, it flips to Mac instead. The simple fix is to disconnect the Mac before rebooting. I wish there was a way to disable that feature, but I couldn't find one, even with OSDSidekick.
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