XTC-3D - High Performance 3D Print Coating - 6.4 Ounce Unit

I have been researching this epoxy for quite some time, after watching YouTube videos on how it is used and what it is used for. With that said, This epoxy works extremely well, if you follow the directions carefully and use the correct brush for it. I have coated a few of my printed models and let me tell you that this works... PERFECTLY. Almost TOO PERFECTLY. When Smooth-On says you need a very thin coat of this, they MEAN EXACTLY THAT. You only need very little. I was coating one of my makercoins with this, and I layered the epoxy on a little too thick and it ended up in the details of my logo (ruined the part but, hey, I printed another one). Also, make sure you wear gloves with this and keep the printed part free of grease. The mix ratio is 2:1, but at times you need VERY LITTLE, so I just carefully eyeballed it, and also pour the mixture into a tin foil and DON'T ALLOW IT to stick close, spread it out a bitOne thing to note that once you use the medicine cup and the chip brush, say goodbye. I stocked up on dixie cups and popsicle sticks since I will be using this very often. I print my models at 50 microns, but that doesn't stop me from coating my models with this, before sealing it with primer. Also the cure time is shortened if you put it in the sun on a 90 degree day (I let it cure for 5 hours). And to get the model ready, I used 220 grit sandpaper to get the surface buffed up for a final pass of paint. I must say, all of my research paid off. I can't wait to use this on bigger models.

this is meant to be used to smooth out 3d printed parts. it does exactly that and pretty well. ive coated 2 parts and they came out great.My issue is minor but i consider it a deal breaker.i coated 2 parts. both different batches 2:1 as directions said. both parts cured for 2 days even though it says 4 hours which is true. 4 hours and its done. anyway after 2 days i picked both up and examined and both look great but if you touch the coating it leaves finger print residue that does not come off almost like its not cured but it is. Like it dulls the finish. its rock hard so i know its cured. so now i have 2 coated parts with fingerprints that wont wipe off.If you need to coat something to smooth it out and paint over then i recommend. its easy to sand and easy to apply. IF you are looking for a finish coat like a shiny clear coat which is what i was after then no i dont recommend. unless you dont plan on touching it then sure.I was going after a stained wood look and wanted a clear protective coating which was exactly what it looked like until it was handled.

First, I'm wondering if those reviewers who say the stuff stays sticky did not follow directions. One thing: in the directions, it says to shake the B bottle before dispensing, but I couldn't find that direction anywhere on the bottle. If it's there, it's not easily seen. So I wrote "Shake Well" several places in bold letters on the bottle. Failing to shake the bottle might lead to some of the undesirable results mentioned in reviews--such as remaining sticky.I used this epoxy to plasticize three hosta leaves and a lily flower to create a floating plant for our backyard pond. It worked great. Of course, the result looks like plastic, but that's how it's protected from the water. After a few hours of curing, the coating definitely is not sticky.Definitely follow directions; for example, wear disposable gloves and safety glasses, work in a well-ventilated area, etc. Plan ahead. You have only a short time before a batch starts to harden. I recommend the video titled "How To Coat a Flower With Resin - YouTube." (Although, truth-be-told, she is coating a fake flower. But, as I mention above, it does work on real flowers and leaves too.

If dealing with PLA prints, this is absolutely essential. A couple thin coats of this stuff and you eliminate most print lines, just be sure to follow the directions and spread out the resin in an aluminum foil tray to keep it from kicking too fast. Sand a bit before first application, then between coats after it's dry. I give it a couple days to fully cure before touching it. After 2-3 coats depending on the level of print lines you're dealing with, and you've got a very sturdy and smooth surface for paint and you couldn't tell it was a PLA print to begin with. Went through an entire kit and bought another to use on other PLA projects.

This stuff works great. I do recommend going in this sheets. If you mix too much (I covered a big part) it can heat up and cure in the mixing cup. So now I only advance with 2.5ml part B and 5ml part A. Which is fine because a little goes a long way, and you may need more than one coat for flat areas or heavily angled areas at .2mm resolution. It’s all good though, any mistakes I’ve made have been easily sanded off and recoated with another layer. Can’t even tell its been buffed.Some other reviewers here clearly did not follow the instructions if it isn’t curing within a few hours. Not sure what they all did but my PLA parts are glassy smooth and perfect now.

+ makes layer lines a thing of the past+ can be used before painting to create a perfectly smooth surface to paint on+ you can paint first (but don't add a wash or anything that accentuates layer lines) and then use xtc3d over, and it helps to hide the layer lines+ easy to use, it is a liquid when combined in a 1:1 ratio and levels itself, meaning you don't get unsightly brush marks+ creates a decent surface coat which adds a finished feel to products+ looks expensive but works out cheaply. One layer of xtc3d seems to be as effective as 4 layers of clear nail varnish.- if you get it on your hands, expect the feel/ smell to last for hours- requires a flat, smooth surface underneath your items or expect to accidentally pick up bits of debris or paper on it. I use a clear smooth glossy plastic wallet.- destroys your brushes very quickly. I bull bought loads of cheap paint brushes due to this- if you mix the ratio wrong, it will never set properly. I found adding too much of the runny liquid part did this, so don't experiment! Just do a straight 1:1- they should provide more than one mixing cup as it gets dirty pretty quickly from residue so means 1:1 ratio is harder to achieveLove this stuff and swear by it. You aren't a real 3d printing expert until you have this finish :)

This is basically epoxy!, formulated to be quite viscous and also with self levelling properties. Follow the instructions exactly (don't experiment) and it will work OK, don't forget to degrease the work before applying ( I used CIF and an old tooth brush then rinse in clean water, allow to fully dry). Being self levelling it will follow the laws of gravity and will run on vertical surfaces, so make sure its applied sparingly and checked during the curing process, changes can be made and runs can be mopped up quite late without serious brush marks. Large blobs of this in unwanted places will result in total detail loss and or at best a lot of rubbing down required. On the whole I like it but it works best when applied to horizontal flat surfaces, large holes will still need filling or you will need to apply quite a few coats

It did not produce the desired finish. Mixed the quantities of A and B precisely on digital scales, mixed thoroughly and after applying some parts of the surface remain sticky. Also found the foam application put too much mix on the surface and was better brushed on. Recommend applying to a test piece before using for real. However will give it a go again on a less critical model.

This is pretty cool product. Thick enough so when you paint it in to 3d print it levels off. I've used it with metal powder to create cast like effect and did the trick.

Does exactly what is says on the box.Note - You won't get a perfect finish without some sanding.