Flat Faux Brick Stone Wallpaper Roll 3D Effect Blocks Vintage Home Decoration Multi Countryside Red

It took us about 4 hours to install this on a 10 ft W x 8 ft H wall. First we measured the height of the wall, drew a plumb line, measured and cut our sheets, then started spreading the adhesive on each sheet. You have to move fast because the paper was absorbing the adhesive quick and making it difficult to get the edges to stay down. The first couple of sheets were the hardest but by the last two, we had it down. I gave 5 stars because the pattern looks real. This was a very cheap way to make our office look amazing. It's my favorite part of the house and you really can't tell it isn't real until you get up close and touch it. The busy pattern hides seams and mistakes (which I made a lot of as this was my first time ever working with wallpaper). Things we learned: 1. Don't just spread glue on the paper, you're going to want to roll some glue on the wall where you expect the edges to go down. Otherwise, while you're adjusting the paper on the wall, the edges start popping up and they don't go back down. 2. While you're cutting, leave way more excess paper than you think you need to. We lined up the pattern, then gave ourselves 2 inches on top and below as excess, but for some reason the pattern kept getting lower and lower as we were hanging it up on the wall. By the end, we had used up all 2 inches of our excess space at the top and had 4 inches on the bottom. So it was not enough excess. 3. Line the pattern up at multiple points. There are places where it looked like the pattern lined up at one spot, but then when you look a little lower down on the seam, its slightly off. So just line it up at multiple points to make sure the whole sheet is a close to seamless as possible. 4. Cutting around outlets. We did it the wrong way first and it resulted in a massive tear. The right way is to take off all of the plates so you just have a hole where the outlets are. (Kill the electricity for this part to avoid electrocution) Lay the paper over the hole like normal, then once everything is in place, feel for where the hole is under the paper and use your razor blade (very important to cut the electricity) to cut a cross slit where the hole is. This allows you to get to the screw hole so you can reinstall the plates. Once the plates are back on, use the blade to cut the paper around the plate, remove the plate again and then peal the paper off. Ta-da! A perfect cut. 5. Be kind to yourself. You're going to make mistakes, but no one else is going to notice them, especially with a pattern this busy. Brick walls aren't perfect, so if you mess up, it's really unlikely that you'll be able to notice unless you're close up and looking for errors.

This is a great wallpaper. Photos show before, during, and after the job. This wall is 8ft x 6ft. I used two rolls. Tools used: - Zinsser Wallcovering Adhesive (make sure you have at least two of these; I had just enough for my small wall) - 3M sanding sponge (sand the walls, as needed) - Rust-Oleum flexible smoothing tool (very important to remove bubbles, during application, and to ensure that the glue is applied evenly) - Paint roller: paint brush, paint tray, roller paint brush kit from Bates (very important: apply the glue with the large paint roller and use the small paint brush for the ceiling, corners, and bottom areas) - Painter’s plastic drop cloth (to protect your floor) - Painter’s tape (for the drop cloth) - Self-leveling laser tool from Tacklife (SC-L01-50): very useful if you want perfectly straight lines, horizontally as well as vertically - Scissors and sharp box cutter - Paper towels (for excess glue) - Wet sponge on a small bucket of clean water (apply to where the panels connect, right after putting each panel up. This will ensure your panels match and have no glue residue) Optional (to make your wallpaper shiny and real-looking): - Spackling (I added a lot of spackling to the corners, edges, ceiling, and bottom areas; see last photo; for a more original and authentic look) - Acrylic gloss or a stone sealer (add this, with a sponge, the day after, for a truly glossy and authentic look) Tips: - Make sure you measure your walls and cut all panels (I had 4 panels, total, for this wall) before you glue anything. - Not only cut your panels, but line them up on the floor and find the area where they match. - Build your entire wall on the floor first, with panels side by side, for best planning. - Once that is done, and all your tools have been laid out (line laser, painter’s drop cloth, tape, scissors, etc) and are ready to go, open your adhesive/glue, and have fun! - Corners are the hardest. You will want to apply the longest side first, ensure the wallpaper is all the way in on the corner and fold the wallpaper for the other side of the wall. - When you’re all done, put your artist’s hat on and add spackling to all edges, top, and bottom for a very authentic look - Let it settle for a day and add, with a sponge, acrylic paint or stone sealer so the bricks looks shiny. If you do the above, you’ll get a very nice-looking wall. Everyone thinks it’s real brick.

Get comfortable... I would like to start out by saying that in addition to having no idea what i was doing, i was terrified of this job. My wife is away on a buisiness trip, so i figured that i would have at least 48hrs to fix the mess that i created. So, I youtubed 2 or 3 “how to” videos in the morning and started the job at 1:30 in the afternoon (same day). Tools that i ended up using: -Roman Pro 543 paste -2.5 rolls of wallpaper. Yeah i overshot with the 6 (yes six) rolls that i bought. -Painters tape and plastic (for floor and ceiling) -Deck brush (looks like a paint brush with long smooth bristles) for applying paste -Painter’s edging tool (long flat metal straight edge) longer than 21” to cut wallpaper -Sharp exacto (replacing blade every 3 cuts) -Squeegy/brush combo to smooth out wallpaper once on the wall (available on amazon) -Plum bob (to hang from the ceiling to mark a straight vertical line 19 inches from the side wall) this step is important because this guarantees that your first piece is perfectly square -painter’s tray liner to dump the glue into -seam tool (looks like a plastic wheel) used to roll over the edges of the wallpaper. -water bowl and sponge to wipe off excess paste Job- masked baseboard trim and floor (with tape and plastic) and ceiling (just tape). Plum bobbed a line 19 inches from the starting point all the way down the project wall. Measured height of wall and layed out 4 lengths of paper on the floor according to the matching pattern. I left 2 rows of brick long on the top and bottom of each length of paper. Brushed paste on the wall and lined up my right edge with my plum bob line because my wallpaper is going from left to right. Once it was on my pencil line, i squeegied (sp?) all of the air bubbles out and trimmed the left side and top and bottom sliding the sharp exacto knife along my metal straight edge. This first piece was the part that i spent the most time on. Not that it was difficult, just way too many variables (how much glue?, should i have wet the paper first? Thinner parts are drying quick, how much time until i have to re-brush paste?). Once i just got over that stuff and focused, it started to go smoothly. Next i applied paste to the next section, and hung the next piece butting it up to the edge of the first piece. Cut the top and bottom with my metal straight edge and exacto, and moved onto the next piece. When this was done, i wiped all of the paste off from the previous length with the damp sponge and dried with paper towel. Continued this method until i had one piece left on the floor, then i cut 3 more, layed them out properly and jumped back into pasting, hanging, cutting and wiping. As you come across outlets and cat5 boxes, unscrew the plates and carefully trim around the recepticles after cutting power. Metal exacto+120v (and 15 amps) does not inspire confidence in an already daunting job, so take the 4 seconds and flip the breaker. When you get to the end, trim the top, bottom, and right side the same way you did the first piece. Reflecting on the job now, i can say that once the job was layed out properly (after the semi miserable first piece with my wall not being completely square), things were actually far less stressful. Also, the key is moving fast. I was so worried about butting the edge up perfectly in the begining that i was moving slowly and had to re-brush the glue. Then the paper would oversaturate in some areas when i peeled it back and wrinkle and i would have to carefully remove these with the seam tool. On my 3rd piece from the end, i naturally started getting fast and they went up very smoothly and quickly. Also, a little bit of overlap is still fine when you use the edge roller. It dried great with nothing peeling. With no other wallpaper experience, i have to say that this paper is very forgiving. It is thick, so it held its shape when i oversaturated it with paste. Also, the wrinkles that i got from agressive squeegy vs super-damp-paste-saturated paper do not even show because of the visual texture of the bricks (there is no actual brick texture, just a rough matte finish). Took me about 3 hrs. I am impressed with this product and would order this brand again. Wall 103” Tall X 180” long- i used 2.5 rolls. Do your math and order extra (worth the 20-40 bucks to not do the job over when you didnt buy enough and now have a different dye lot). Have fun. It is not that bad.

I used this wallpaper in my son's room (baseball theme). I had chosen white paint for his room color, so I knew the wallpaper would make a drastic difference. It is ADORABLE. Just LOVE it. My mom helped me hang it, and I definitely think this is easier as a two person job. We finished the wall in four hours - and we were super particular about it. It's not difficult to match the pattern (although it was easier when one of us would hold up the paper, and the other would stand back and find the pattern). Another hint - this is not a self adhesive wallpaper (which I didn't necessarily want, as I think even those require extra glue from what I've read). But the trick is that you cover the back of the wallpaper with glue (using a large paint brush) - then you have to wait - about 10-15 minutes for the paper to re-size with the glue. I've seen some comments that their paper shrank; well that's because they didn't wait. It takes patience, but the result is perfect. Another trick is to start in the middle of the wall, and make sure you are square with the ceiling (not the walls). No walls are perfectly straight, and if we had started on one edge, we would have been crooked all along. Bottom line - go get your mom (or friend, or spouse), give yourself plenty of time to be a perfectionist, WAIT for the glue to resize the paper, and start in the middle of the wall. You'll be proud of yourself in the end. Oh - and this paper is awesome.

I just put this up today. This in non-woven so you can put the glue on the wall so for me that made it easier install for a first time paper installer. It took me a lot longer than I thought. I watch a few youtube videos and they helped. This paper comes with no instructions; non-in english anyway. My wife is Chinese and the only thing she could read was it doesn't have glue but I already knew that. I found it better to cut the top and bottom before hanging as even when I was using a new razor knife the paper would tear when I tried to cut it in place. It can be done but you have to be very careful. In the end it looks great and made the room. I used this in my office/man cave. It looks great!!

Absolutely amazing wallpaper. It was everything I expected, my husband and I couldn’t be any happier!! It was my first time putting up a wallpaper so I was very nervous about it lol, almost didn’t want to put it on, but it was definitely worth it. I get so many compliments on it and gives my LA studio apartment a whole different look. I love that the wallpaper is not just a printed picture, it rather has a texture to it which makes it look so realistic. As a newbie I didn’t know weather to put the adhesive on the wallpaper or on the wall, so I tried both. And let me tell you, it’s WAAAYYYY better to put it on the wallpaper. You can work with it better, especially when it’s time to cut those edges out. When the adhesive was put on the wall instead of the wallpaper The wallpaper would tear up when I tried to cut the edges out, so I don’t recommend doing that. It took a roll and about 1/4 of a second roll to cover my whole kitchen, that’s excluding the inside of the cabinets.

My mud room looks AMAZING!!! It took me about an hour. I used DIF Wallcovering and border adhesive. I have hung wallpaper before. This wallpaper is perfect for first timers because it’s so forgiving. Love it!! One trick... once hung, you could see some definite seams especially in the darker “brick”. I had some acrylic craft paint, so I but a dab of black, gray and white on a paper plate and used my finger to work it into the seams. I then wiped it off with a damp cloth. Looks totally seamless now! The texture of the paper is the same as most vinyl paper,bricks aren’t raised to the touch, but on the wall they look very realistic. I’m sure that you could sponge a water based clear coat on for added texture if you wanted to. Tip on matching: look for an unusual brick. When you hang your second section, find that same brick on the sheet. Those same bricks will repeat in the same row and all of your bricks will be lined up perfectly. See photo ALSO KEEP TRACK OF WHICH END IS UP!!! Very important!

I felt obligated to write this review. We created an absolutely amazing area with this wallpaper. I absolutely love it. However, I was going to use it again in another space and I did a little research. As it says up above, this contains PVC. I appreciate their full disclosure in listing it here for those of us who no longer want to purchase these types of items or bring them into our homes. I am going to quote Greenpeace, “ PVC is the most environmentally damaging plastic. The PVC lifecycle -- its production, use, and disposal -- results in the release of toxic, chlorine-based chemicals. These toxins are building up in the water, air and food chain.” Perhaps the levels of PVC are moderate. Perhaps such levels don’t create a problem for some people or their children. Unfortunately in my home, we are sensitive. And, as hard as it is, I am committing myself to being more responsible these days when it comes to stopping my own cycle of contributing to a further spread of toxicity. I am not ripping out the wallpaper we already have. What is done, is done. But I am not going to add with more of it in another space. Many wallpapers have VOCs and I have recently learned that there are also many wallpapers that are made with arsenic, tin, cadmium, lead, etc… I could not find information on this wallpaper as to if these other ingredients are in it. I did appreciate this Wallpaper did not have a bad smell to it from what I could tell. But as I said I have no idea of the other possible ingredients. There are wallpapers which hold certification of being more green. So I am going to have to find one of those. My hope is that this personal input will help those who are more sensitive.