RØDE SM3-R Camera Shoe Shock Mount

I use this shock mount with the Rode NT USB, and despite what other people said about reaching the dials, I haven't had any issues, though I do have somewhat smaller hands than the average consumer :'). I haven't had any issues with the headphone jack being unusable due to the mount obstructing it, but that's because I have the microphone slightly twisted so that I can plug in my cable in between the elastics. The pop shield is really good, double layered, and I actually switched out the one I was using previously, as this one is so good. You can adjust the height and the angle that it sits at which is pretty nice :)I don't have any complaints about this product, it feels pretty sturdy! I'd recommend spending on this rather than cheaping out on something less reliable. As tempting as it is, I believe this shock mount is worth every penny.

So I made the mistake of thinking that the pop filter for the NT-USB isn't compatible at first, because the base of the filter comes out offset to the side.However you literally just need to turn the mic a little bit to side as you mount it, and it'll fit just fine. Yes it ends up being a bit angled and one of the metal parts from the shock mount does press against the pop filter - but it has no bearing on the result.The bigger issue in terms of the NT-USB compatibility is accessing the monitoring and volume dials, as well as the 3.5mm jack for my headset. I ended up plugging in an extension cable in for easier future access should I want to swap my headset frequently.The dials are still accessible if awkward, though I don't think I'll be needing them that often, since I do most things software side.For the mount itself, my gripe is with the pivot - it wasn't strong enough to support the mount AND the microphone, without me really forcing it when tightening the joint. Not sure if it's a manufacturing fault or design flaw.Overall it does the job for my basic needs as a starter streamer.

Like all Rode products I've used the psm1 shock mount is well built and does the job well. If you've bought a Rode microphone I wouldn't recommend using a cheap shock mount. Instead, consider getting yourself a Rode boom arm and Rode shock mount to go with it as they're sturdy and will take the weight. I can't recommend it for other brands of mics although I have heard of others using this with Yeti mics and Audio Technica mics. You'll find reviews on YouTube if you need to see if it's compatible with your microphone. Also, if your mic hasn't got a built-in pop filter I'd recommend buying the Rode SM6 instead of this as it comes with a pop filter.I use this with the RØDE Podcaster microphone and the RØDE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm.

Looking to isolate handling noise, this does the trick. Can't fault it, except for one major annoyance.There's no bag/box supplied for keeping it in. That may not seem like it should be an issue, but unless you're always keeping this in use with a shotgun mic attached, you'll want to store it somewhere - and that's where it gets annoying. If you throw it in a bag with other things, the lyres bend (yes they eventually bend back). If you dismantle it to save the lyres from bending constantly, you have to make sure that you don't lose the two screws that keep the lyres in place. These require screws to mount, instead of locking push latches that Rycote's gear now uses (Rycote designed these lyres). So now you can't disassemble it without the fear of losing the screws and now need another tool to adjust it. So it's best to keep it assembled and try to put it somewhere where the lyres won't deform - good luck with that.I'd recommend it, but with this one annoying reservation. If you don't already own a dead-cat for your mic, invest in a blimp instead and save yourself the hassle.

You put the assembly together yourself, which is great because you can match it easily to your microphone’s length. I mounted a Sennheiser shotgun onto it no problem.However, one thing to bear in mind if you use a deadcat. You’ll want to place the mic further back so that the deadcat doesn’t appear in the picture. That means with a shotgun, you may want to use the front screw thread to hold the front of the mic and the very back one to suppprt the back end.The choices for the cold shoe mount are limited to 3. There are 5 positions for the mic but only 3 for the mount. So you could fit the mount in the front placement...... AS LONG AS YOU HAVEN’T ALREADY USED THAT PLACEMENT FOR THE MIC. The screw threads can’t be shared, so you then have to move the front mount back one notch in order to allow this and the cold shoe will then go into the front, bringing the mic position backwards, but not as well supported.Having said this, I did end up mounting the mic, deadcat and all so that it didn’t appear in shot by juggling this. I put the coldshoe mount on the front and attached the front mic holder to the second hole back instead. That meant there was less space between the front and back holder to support my mic but the mic was placed further back and well out of the way. The strength of the mounts is enough to hold the assembly without drooping so it did in fact fit well in the end and I’m able to use a superb mic with my camera more easily.The plate projects quite a way back from the camera in this position so using a DSLR viewfinder would be impossible, but using a screen makes it no problem at all.So it’s a good mount and sturdier than I first thought looking at it. I can also boom the mic with it because the ‘suspension’ isn’t too soft.I do think they’re a bit too pricey though.

This item is recommended with the purchase of a Rode NT-USB Microphone. But it's not fully compatible.First you have to remove the pop up filter that comes with the the Rode NT-USB (which is a shame because it's a very good filter). Once the mic is fitted on the shock mount, it is difficult to access the two dials on the side and plugin headphones is tricky.