5494878RX 6.7 Cummins Turbo Actuator Compatible with Dodge Ram 2500 3500 4500 5500 2013-2018 VGT Turbo Holset HE300VG HE351VE Replaces Turbocharger Actuator 68481772AA W/Calibrate Kit (2013-2018)

Fits perfect. Works great and calibration is very simple. Just follow the instructions.Hardest part other then the seized bolts is getting the inner fender back in without pinching your finger tips. All of my bolts the 5 mm Allen would slip. I used a T30 socket and they came right out. Except for the lower left that you cannot get to. I cut a hacksaw blade in half and just cut the bolt off. Once the actuator is removed I used vise grips and the bolt came right out. I did put tape on my 5mm Allen bit to keep it from sliding out the back of the ratchet wrench. So far so good the truck runs like new and no codes. Definitely worth the price to save from having to take it to the dealership.

Worked for the first couple test drives but sets a communication code ever since.

Got the check engine light and ran the codes getting a U010C code. Had lost all of my Turbo Power and the Jake Brake (Exhaust Brake) no longer worked. Brought it to the dealer and confirmed that it was a bad Turbo actuator. Cost me $350 for the diagnosis.The dealer wanted about $1500 for the part and I don't know how much for install? Decided that was too much and besides I pride myself in doing my own work.Checked out several of the Turbo actuators on Amazon. Everything from the OEM $1500 unit to this one for about $350. It had all good reviews so I took the chance.Replacing the Turbo actuator is not difficult, but you have to be somewhat of a contortionist to do it.Remove the passenger front wheel and the inner wheel shroud. Now the actuator is right in front of you. I was told to drain the coolant as well, so I did and changed fluid and thermostat while I was at it. There is a coolant line that does feed this actuator so I guess that it could get really messy if you do not drain the coolant first.Now, there are ONLY 4, 6mm Allen bolts that hold this actuator to the turbo housing. The top 2 are a piece of cake. The bottom 2 are the problem. The bracket for the shock absorber bracket is RIGHT in front of the lower 2 - 6mm bolts. You can get a small 6mm Allen Wrench in the tip of the screw on the bottom right. I was able to turn it about 1/4 turn at a time, then had to pull out the wrench and re-insert for another 1/4 turn at a time. That one is rough. But the one on the bottom left is a REAL BITCH!! I had to shave off about 1/4" of my Allen wrench tip to just get it into the tip of the screw head. And you have to shine a light and get your head in there to see where the wrench and bolt line up. Now you can only turn the bolt aboul 1 flat or about an 1/8th of a turn at a time. This bolt took about 1 hour to get out. Persistence pays off.When you get all 4 bolts out, the old actuator needs to be kind of twisted and turned to removed it, again because of the shock absorber bracket.After you get it out, wipe off the mounting face of the Turbo itself really good so the actuator has a nice clean surface to mount to. Make sure that the little Turbo/Exhaust lever is pushed all the way clockwise and lines up with the mark.Installing the Actuator is just the same. You have to turn and twist it into place. Try NOT to move the Turbo/Exhaust lever.Now you get to put those 2 lower 6mm Allen Bolts back in. HOW FUN!! Be sure to tighten them down good because you do not want a Coolant Leak/Drip later on.I was a little nervous about that because the box came with 2 extra seals that I did not use because the new unit itself already had seals on it, so I chose to use those rather than swap them out. Not quite sure why the gave 2 spares?Also, they state that it come with alignment bolts. It did not, and quite frankly, I think that they would have been more trouble than they are worth. There is just not any room to play with in there.Once you get everything all bolted up and the connector back in place, put the wheel well and tire back on the truck. Plug the Turbo Calibration Module in the OBD module and it self calibrates. Takes about a minute. Had to go back in and use my DTC module to clear the fault and Check Engine light.Truck has now been running for 2 weeks and it has never ran better. So far so good.Total to replace this was $350 for the diagnostic and about $350 for this new Turbo actuator. Total was $700. Imagine it would have been around $2000 at the dealership. So saved $1300 for about 2-3 hours work and a couple of beers!!!

This is a great option to replace the Holset turbo actuator that failed on my 2015 ram 2500 Cummins 6.7. I was able to calibrate the actuator using EZ lynk tuner and did not try to use the OBD programmer that came with the actuator.I drained my coolantRemoved front inner passenger fender linerLoosened the 22mm banjo bolt for the top coolant line and used air to blow out all residual coolantRemoved the electrical connector and 10mm bolt holding the electrical clipRemoved the 4-5mm Allen head bolts (bottom left bolt was very difficult to remove)Cleaned the turbo mating surface with steel woolPlugged in new actuator and did pre calibrate with EZ LynkEnsured turbo linkage was to the full left or rear positionInstalled actuator with new Allen head bolts that were providedDid final calibration with ezlynkRefilled the truck with coolantTruck has been running great.I would recommend this product. It’s significantly cheaper than other options and works just as well.The only con I would say is mine came with no directions.

Seems to be good quality and install was easy. Time will tell if it holds up.

I installed this in my 2013 ram. Getting the old part off was not a fun job. New one bolted right up and calibrated the first try. My truck is tuned and deleted and all i did was use their programmer that came with this one. No more check engine light and now my exhaust break works great again. I was skeptical on this since its so cheap but it works. Ill update this in 6 or so months.

The part looked fine and install was simple. The problem is the service from this company.#1 You CANNOT use this part for 2018+ trucks without purchasing an additional part. It's not an expensive part, a gateway bypass harness, but the problem is they don't disclose this upfront so I paid my mechanic for TWO visits instead of one.#2 Their install video is unusable. You can't getn more than 20 seconds into it until it begins to stutter and freeze making it unusable. I check on muliple devices and on multiple networks over several days and it never worked. Very frustrating.There are a lot of vendors for this part. My advice? Choose another one.

I was worried about taking a chance on this. The OEM is $1800 and this one was $360 when I bought it. At a fifth the cost, I finally took the chance. I have put about 5000 miles on it after it was installed and it has performed. I hope that it lasts the 270,000 miles the first one lasted but doubt it will. When my original went bad, I researched and there is an aftermarket one that has a more powerful motor. It was twice this price and on back order so I got this one instead. Turns out that soot tends to accumulate around the shaft of the turbo and that makes the turbo sluggish and the original positioner has problems moving it, so a more powerful motor would seem reasonable. The other habit that I'm trying to get into is running with the exhaust brake on. I guess that the brake changes flow through the turbo and keeps the soot build up to a minimum. That might be true or not but I do not think it will hurt.