Bernzomatic PC3 Copper-Phosphorous Brazing/Welding Rods, 3-Piece

Bought these for an coil and condenser install after I had been robbed. I was stuck using mapp gas to braze the refrigerant lines in. It melted and flowed well for 3/8 copper tubing. On the 3/4 I had to hunt down an oxy/acetylene torch to get it hot enough (which I pretty much knew would be the case before I started). Its worked perfectly after getting the hotter torch. Held 500 PSI with no problem. No leaks or blowouts.

I use this to braze copper creating jewelry and other objects. Easy to use, once one gets the hang of it. I can file it down and polish and the color, once flame colored or patina, matches the copper quite well. Cannot use with enameling and the melting point is less than enameling temps.

These brazing rods are easier to melt with a propane torch IF a new torch system is used. These rods are pretty expensive and hard to find but work well.

I purchased (4) packages of these Copper-Phosphorous Brazing Rods because at the time these were the lowest priced ones I could find. I still find it hard to justify the cost when you see the (3) tiny rods in each package (each package weighs 3 ounces!). Anyway... I used these copper rods mostly for lawn art work : large spinning structures, trellises and such. I bend and form 1/2 inch - 3/4 inch type "L" copper pipe that you would find in any household potable water system. I found the copper rods the easiest and simplest to weld the sections together. The produce an extremely strong bond that when tested for strength did not come apart even when hit with a 2 pound sledge hammer! I use a Mapp gas fuel WORTHINGTON CYLINDER 332585 14.1 oz Pre-Filled MAP-Pro Gas Torch Style Cylinderfitted with a "swirl"-type torch head Bernzomatic TS8000 - High Intensity Trigger Start Torch. The swirl flame produces the highest possible flame temperature which means faster welds and less fuel used. Some suggestions and observations: Copper rods will not work with propane fuel. Propane's temperature when burning can only reach about 1100-1200 degree's Fahrenheit while the acetylene Mapp fuel burns at about 1300-1400 degree's F. Although these rods, as claimed by the manufacturer, can sweat pipes with water inside them DO NOT attempt sweating or heating pipes in this manner! It is a potentially dangerous situation as the heated water rapidly expands to a gas (steam) it can burst the pipe releasing scalding water! I also highly doubt the metal would reach the proper temperature to melt the rod due to the water in the pipe cooling the metal. Clean the surfaces of the to be joined metals with an emery cloth or sand paper. No flux is necessary for the copper rods, but the metal should be clean and shiny. I found it best to slowly heat the joint by not positioning the flame to close. The flame tip's very end should be 2-3 inches above the surface. Don't touch the rod to the joint until you see the metal surface begin to change from bright to dull. If it isn't hot enough the rod will melt and roll off the metal to the ground!. I like this type of "hard welding" or brazing. I've been doing it for awhile and Amazon has the best prices and largest selections. I'd be glad to answer any questions regarding brazing anyone may have.

I tried to use this product to braze a copper fountain. It worked on the one joint I had cleaned properly. This was the first time we had tried to braze and we didnt know enough about what we were doing. The product worked just fine.

I bought these to repair busted pipes and they were to be used to connect a fitting to a copper pipe. They did not heat up to melt to the pipe fitting. We had to go buy more expensive brazing from the plumbing store. Waste of money! Did not do what is advertised and now I'm stuck with a pack and a half of useless rods!

first time user and will use and recommend again. I was having issues with soldering bezels and other small components and this has been a time saver for me. will post pics later

I purchased this due to color - I needed to solder some 10 gauge copper wire and thought this would make my life easier. Umm...NOT. Apparently I don't quite understand the difference between solder and brazing. (That's my guess.) We got off to a rough start when the thinness of the rods "tricked" me - and killed my favorite cutters. Using old wire cutters, honkin' cutters specifically for large gauges, memory wire cutters, or - better yet - your friends cutters, is necessary. Precious jewelry nippers...NOT a good idea. (I wish I had seen the first review before I got this. For a few reasons.)I've soldered a few times before, but definitely would not say I'm a soldering expert. I might say I'm soldering proficient - when I squint my eyes and bite my tongue just right. I have the supplies and am comfortable with basic soldering. Brazing? Welding? Evidently out of my realm. I quickly learned - after turning all three rods into small stumps of something that looks like a burned, gnarled match - that you apparently DO need flux for these. (Reason #2 to read the first review.) I know my temperature was correct and I know the copper wire I was working with wasn't some strange brand from another world. (Although it did cross my mind someone was potentially Punking me.) The only thing I can come up with is not using flux...but I burned all three of these babies way down to about 1/2" long (1" if you count the strange hook formation thing at the end, caused by the heat) - and didn't manage to attach anything. I couldn't even make a blob come off the rods. I don't know what else it could have been - when I whipped out some "normal" solder, things moved right along. And that only took about 1/3" solder total. (There are NO instructions on the bag these come in - so I relied on what Amazon said about them. MISTAKE!)No matter how "weirdly" someone says they are "wired", listen to them. You'll be sorry if you don't. I know I am. (Although I did learn a few lessons.)

Durísima para lo que yo requiero. Me resulta imposible soldar con ella.

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