5-2-1 CSRU2 Compressor Saver for 3-1/2 to 5 Ton Units

I’d like to clear up some major areas of confusion and misunderstanding regarding these. Also, I’d like to address some safety related issues to make sure those who are attempting a DIY install don’t get a nasty zap or worse. I’m a big proponent of DIY and saving money, but I’m an even bigger proponent of saving lives. I couldn’t in good conscience make recommendations I thought would put people at risk.That being said it’s totally possible to do this right, but show due respect for high voltage and become fully acquainted with the ins and outs of the procedure before attempting any changes. Hopefully some of the information below will help do that.Most importantly: do NOT attempt this process without an AC clamp meter, a 600VAC rating would be nice and ensure it also has plug ins for probes to measure capacitance of the capacitors. This should be a non-negotiable safety consideration and also to verify that what you have done is not wreaking havoc on your AC and functioning as intended. Amazon has an array of low cost off brand options from about $20-$25 that come highly rated by Electricians and professionals. There’s no sense in putting a very expensive AC and a priceless human life at risk for $25.So, now that I’ve given that speech, let’s get on to some clarifications:1. Some HVAC technicians will say a scroll compressor will not need a start cap. Maybe in a perfect world this could be true, but in practical real world application any compressor will benefit.2. Having a POTENTIAL relay is essential. Other timer relays will not function as intended.3. If you have a dual capacitor inside your AC handler this does not mean you already have a start capacitor. Likely; this is a fan run and motor run capacitor in one.4. Most compressors (including the Bristol compressors I have) indicate the utility of a start capacitor and it’s size in the compressor data sheet. The reason they are not included in most ACs these days is because of cost- a high microfarad 370VAC cap and potential relay is not cheap, and is not necessarily required for operation. However having one can really extend the life and efficiency of a compressor. This is not something to install only when your AC is dying and struggling- install it BEFORE you have problems.5. A hard start is a bit of a confusing name- really the purpose of this device is to reduce wear on your system on startup by reducing current draw. It’s not really starting “hard” but starting more smoothly.6. Hard starts have the added benefit of reducing sag on appliances or lighting located nearby your AC Handler on the breaker panel. If your lights dim anywhere in the house when the AC kicks in, you will likely solve this problem by installing the hard start.7. If you do not understand electricity, are unfamiliar with how to use a multimeter or don’t have a clamp meter to verify proper operation of this kit- do NOT attempt self installation. You can do a lot of expensive and frustrating harm by botching the installation. Installation by a professional should take less than a half hour. Again if you can’t verify the benefits you have no business doing this alone. If you must, inform yourself by watching videos online of installs and absolutely, 100% have a clamp meter and exercise extreme caution.8. At the same time as installing your hard start you should likely replace the fan and motor if you unit has been in service for some time. Motor run caps require a fine tolerance and after extended use in high heat environments this capacitance level will likely change, putting undue stress on the motors regardless of the addition of a hard start kit. My personal preference is Genteq (GE) because they have a rigorous testing protocol and are UL listed devices rated for long term stability. Do NOT buy off brand non-UL listed motor runs from China! You are asking for a disaster. My criteria would be: should be minimum 370V AC (NOT DC!!), within the run tolerance specified or better and be EI-456-A compliant with a 60,000 hour reliability rating. The Genteqs all fit the bill. My Genteq was $25 shipped, and all of the questionable off brand options around $8. Not worth $17 to put a whole AC at risk. This is not the area where you want to save a few bucks.9. Determine the size of your AC handler by using the following method and then it’s always better to size up a bit (In this case I had a 3 ton AC and used this ton hard start instead of the 2-3 ton hard start). Remember- capacitance may decrease over time.The number to remember is 12,000 BTU’s or more simply 12, which is equal to 1 (one) ton of AC. So, 18,000 is equal to 1.5 tons and 24,000 is equal to 2 tons and so on.Look at the model number (Located on the data plate stamped on the actual side of the compressor) on the compressor. You’ll have to remove the cover to your AC handler to do so. There should be a number divisible by 12. It should start at 18 and not be more than 60 for residential AC units. 18 to equal 1.5 tons and 60 to equal 5 tons of cooling.If in doubt contact the manufacturer or search on their website and locate a data sheet for your specific model number. It’s not hard and I’ve found most manufacturers customer service is fairly prompt in returning requests for info.10. Write all the information on the compressor plate down so you don’t have to go through shutting everything off and unscrewing the cover again if you forget something. Document your work and take pictures before you take anything apart. It will be indispensable later in case of an issue.11. When looking for the tonnage of your AC, you should also see the run capacitor value for the compressor, usually stated in “uF” (microfarad). It should also be followed by an acceptable percentage deviation.12. Once you have the listed values, measure your run cap(s) and make sure it’s still within the specification required. Even if it is, it’s always good to source a spare while the information is fresh in your head. Better to have the right one on the shelf for a rainy day than be scrambling to get a replacement locally on short notice.Note: Do NOT attempt to measure the actual capacitor without first discharging it using an insulated screwdriver or comparable. If you have any doubt review some videos of this practice.13. Replace the run caps and start caps. Make sure you have the correct terminals if it’s a dual run. Then, follow the instructions on the hard start kit. They are designed to be quite straightforward and take a lot of the guesswork out of the hookup. Pay very close attention to the hookup arrangement and you have any doubts at all: stop, take photos, and email or call 5-2-1 and ask questions.Be absolutely sure to mount both the capacitors and potential relay securely. Do not under any circumstances leave them without secure attachment. Luckily 5-2-1 comes with a good screw for the relay and zip tie for the cap. However, I’d go the extra mile if possible: any unintentional movement could cause a short and create a disaster.14. When buttoning everything back up, it’s essential to make sure the AC panels are properly adhered together and fit snugly with screws in all necessary location. Failure to do this well may result in increased buzzing from the AC- which may give you false indication that there was a problem with the installation when in reality it’s just bad vibration control. If you’d like to further reduce AC noise, look into compressor covers as well as vibration feet.After all this you should have an AC that will last much longer, be more environmentally friendly, cost less on you electricity bill, reduce wear on other appliances in the home, solve many cases of dimming lights (that are in sync with the AC turn-on), and run more quietly without the big “thump and buzz” you might be experiencing presently.That’s a big win for under $100 delivered for the Hard Start Kit, a Genteq Dual run capacitor and an AC Clamp Meter.Hope this helps, and most of all be safe! 240VAC is not a joke! Don’t blow yourself up or burn your house down! The cost of some guidance from a trusted professional is worth avoiding these potential disasters. At the very least, get a competent friend with experience with this to guide you through the process: working on high voltage electricity alone is a big no no.

The HVAC unit stopped working. The house got cold (December), the 2 service techs that came out each said "new system". I found the manual for the unit on-line and ordered the correct hard-start kit. Identify and connect 3 wires and the unit has worked now for 8 months, switching from winter to summer mode with no problems. Runs more quietly and doesn't dim the lights when the compressor starts.Make sure the power is OFF. There may be 2 different circuits that have wires in the control box of the HVAC. Turn off the breaker to the air handler as well as pull the quick connect device beside the outside unit.Good luck and be safe.

Easy to install, dropped our lra from 107 to 48

A HVAC company wanted $1600.00 to install an item like this. For a fraction of the price ($42.24), I installed the 5-2-1 Compressor Saver, the easy-to-follow instructions made it a snap.

I have a 3.5 ton unit that was pulling 74 amps at start up and now its less than half that. Amazing that these kits just don't come with the units when sold new. Anyway, install is pretty easy: Turn off power using service disconnect on wall next to outside unit, remove metal cover, find suitable location under cover to install both the cap and the relay (MAKE SURE BOTH FACE UP [cap terminals toward the sky, mounting hole for relay toward the sky]). Find your existing capacitor on the unit -- if you have a 3 terminal cap look for the printing/stamping on the top of the cap itself for "herm" , "C", etc. Wire unit as shown in the diagram on the top of the cardboard of the package. Note: forget the T1, T2, lingo and just look for the black wire coming up from the compressor and see which side of the contactor it is connected to -- that's the one to connect your black wire from the kit to. Honestly, the whole thing takes like 15 minutes. Just make sure to disconnect power and 'short' all the contacts on the cap on your unit air conditioner first to be safe (honestly, even this isn't entirely necessary if you are careful).

We have a 22 year old 5 Ton central air conditioner that I want to keep going until we can replace it with a more efficient model.This past summer when it started my clamp meter read 184-187 A inrush current. This would cause the UPSs for the network and my computers to activate briefly every time the AC started which was annoying.I installed this using the wiring diagram included in the instructions and the inrush current was reduced to 120 A a huge improvement. When it starts the lights barely flicker and the UPSs don’t drop into battery power.Problem solved.I did not use the wires that came with the kit, just the potential relay and the capacitor. I custom cut new wires to fit my electrical compartment. The wires would have worked just fine but I didn’t like how they were too long. That is just personal preference, nothing wrong with the supplied wires.

Bought this to support my air conditioning unit in Arizona, hope it helps surge and protect the unit for longer life ,, installing so easy just watch YouTube Vedio