M-D Building Products43337 Vinyl Cinch® U-Shape Slide-On Under Door Seal, Easy-to-Install, Energy-Saving, Weatherproof Seal for Doors, Effective Draft Blocker, Ideal for Home (36 Inch, Brown)

This gasket is the best you can buy out there (IMHO). I find it is best used if the gap is ½” to ¾”. Less will possibly work, but you may quickly shave off the dangling legs. These can be somewhat hard to install on a 1 ¾” door as the fit is super tight (compression fit). That is why there are no holes for screws. Here is the installation that worked for me (second one installed and lessons learned).1) The Mark: (if required. Yes, I know it is 36” and so is your door, but trust me). Lay at base of door, flush at one end and mark opposite end at end of door. Trim as below - if length is perfect, skip to 3).2) The Trim: (lesson learned from installing as is - ¼” extended past the door edge hitting the side frame. Not fun to remove). Use anything you are skilled with: Hack saw, band saw, chain saw or whatever. Here is what I used/did. I used the heavy duty scissors to snip both upstanding legs (as far as I could). I then snipped each dangling leg at the same distance as the upstanding legs. I then used a sharp blade against a small section of 2x4 to cut the bottom – was tough and takes patience / great force. (see cut piece in pics – yes, my door is 36” and I still trimmed off about a ¼”.3) The Install: Spray Windex on both sides of the lower sides of the door along with a shot that length of the seal (insides). Yes, Windex – as any avid dirt biker knows – lubricates for install and evaporates for a extremely tight seal (like grips on your dirt bike!) Should have bought this stock in the 70’s.4) The Slide: Before the Windex evaporates, slide the seal from outer end of door (as if you could install any other way). It will be easy for the first 6”, then you will need a gloved (leather preferably) hand to pound it on most of the way. I got it to about to 3-4” left before my palm gave out. From there I used a block of wood (to protect the seal) and a small hammer (yea, the one shown is a tiny tike hammer, but the one I use the most) to tap the seal flush to the door. Now you are almost done.5) The Pop: More than likely, the seal is up to the bottom of the door. I couldn’t even move my door as it was sealed to the floor. I used a rigid scraper (metal as shown – I have rigid and flexible and had to use the rigid one) sliding under the seal (gently not to damage the dangling fingers) in 6” increments and pulling up (you will hear the pop as it seats with the bottom of your door. I did this to both inside and outside of door.Key: From the Windex spray to the end was done before the Windex dried.Hopefully this helped with the installation.

This is so much better than the stick on draft blockers I tried for years. They ALWAYS fall off and are just a waste of time and money. I had a considerable gap under my back door, maybe close to an inch and the cold air whooshed in all winter.I got this draft blocker and it is extremely snug on the bottom of the door. I suggest thoroughly cleaning the door and then priming this with a little silicone or olive oil, whatever you have. I had some sticky stuff left over on one spot and it was a bear to get past. I used a hammer on the end and some dish soap and finally got it on.The door was initially harder to close, part of it was it wasn't quite on all the way. I adjusted it a little more and it was much easier, but it isn't like it was before. I have to give the door a bit more of a push now, which is fine considering the dust, bugs and I suspect mice that creep in in the winter the moment it starts to get cool.Worth every penny and I wish I had gotten it years ago. If it breaks down over time (as literally everything does... I will happily replace with this item.

Goid fit. Performs,as advertised. Great option and great price.

Being a homeowner with a draft-prone 1950s house, I found myself in need of a simple solution to address the significant gaps underneath certain doors. These gaps were not only allowing bugs, debris, and cold air to enter, but also causing discomfort. Having dealt with the frustration of using temporary seals that would not stay in place, I eventually stumbled upon the ultimate solution: the M-D Building Products 36-Inch White Vinyl U-Shape Door Seal.Installing this slide-on gap cover is a piece of cake, as it requires minimal effort and is extremely straightforward. The process is quite simple - just measure the dimensions, cut the material to fit if necessary, and then easily slip it over the bottom of your door. No nails, screws, or sticky tape are required. With its heavy-duty vinyl material and uniquely designed rigid U-shape, this product fits snugly while still providing smooth functionality for your door.I'm absolutely thrilled and filled with excitement to finally have an energy efficient barrier in place, which not only keeps out dust and leaves but also effectively blocks cold drafts from entering. Bid farewell to pesky creatures like spiders and roaches by utilizing our method, which ensures that they will no longer have access to your personal space. Besides its role in weatherstripping, the thick pile on the door sweep also serves the purpose of soundproofing.If you are looking for an affordable and hassle-free solution to prevent unwanted elements from entering beneath your exterior doors, I strongly suggest giving the user-friendly M-D Vinyl Door Seal a try. Compared to flimsy plastic strips or temporary cloth solutions, this product offers superior protection. Although my doors may be outdated, I have sealed off the gaps underneath them thanks to this practical fix.

Easy to install. Used this on a door separating house from garage. Just cut to length and gently tap into place with a hammer. Very durable and seals the bottom of the door well. Highly recommend.

Put this in the category of things that are too good to be true usually are. First of all, this product has to be cut to size using what they suggest as a “hacksaw“. A hacksaw that we own was not working for this purpose , and frankly, I don’t think there’s any way to get a good clean cut on this thing considering the nature of the materials. The cutting itself damage the bottom. From there, I tried everything to get this to fit onto our standard door, including adding lubrication. In the end, I ended up having to hammer it on. Despite all the effort to get it on, and you would think it would be so super stuck, the first time I tried to close the door the minimal friction from the carpet caused the whole thing to come off. Into the trash it goes.