Resin 3D Printer Flex Building Plate,231x131mm Spring Steel Flexible Plate and Magnetic Base Platform for Creality Halot Mage, Mage Pro LCD 1pcs

Apparently there is no right size flex plate made to fit exactly to m5s build plate, so this one is about the right size ,couple mm off, but considering the size of the plate I'm ok with benefits of printing without rafts or supports. I have 3 different flex plates for 3 different brand printers, so i sanded this down with 320grit 3m paper right out of the box, maybe that was the reason of successful print from the first attempt. It was 2liter bottle of sunlu standard plus resin , 35sec buttom, 2,8sec exposure 25u layer , the rest are pretty much standard settings for Anycubic slicer.

The magnet and metal thickness are sufficient to keep it from slipping so far. It works well.

Me gustó es fácil de colocar y llega cepillado las piezas se pegan bien

The Creality Halot Lite is a good larger-format resin printer(like the Elegoo Saturn), but it's a little obscure I guess, and it's hard to find accessories or upgrades for it. I tested this bed set with my Halot Lite and found it to be a good fit. Having a removable flex steel bed makes removing resin prints SO much easier.Installation is simple: Remove the metal printing bed plate from the printer and clean it thoroughly with alcohol and let it dry completely. Attach the adhesive magnetic sheet to the plate, lining it up as precisely as possible. Press it firmly to make sure it has a good seal and let it set for 24 hours. Slap the steel sheet onto the magnet (careful because it can pinch a little). Reattach the bed to the printer. IMPORTANT: After attaching the new build plate you MUST RE-LEVEL the printer. You've just added a few mm of thickness to the build plate and your prints will fail and you may damage your printer if you do not reset for it. On the Halot Lite, I had to loosen the 4 bolts supporting the bed plate, and then run the re-leveling routine using the "Calibration Card" that came with my printer. (I've also used a doubled-over piece of paper before...just something that mimics the thickness of the FEP sheet.) Do some research on this if you're not totally sure how to re-level your machine. Doing it the wrong way or skipping a step could cause damage.If everything is leveled correctly, printing should proceed like with the original build plate, but when the print is done, you peel the steel sheet away, bend it a little to break the print away from the bed, and put the sheet back on the magnet.I will say that the magnet sheet is sized just a few mm wider than my build plate(The pic shows the amount of overlap, which I tried to balance on both sides. It's not enough to cause any immediate problems, but I'm just hoping that long-term, it doesn't weaken the adhesive bond around the edges after multiple cleanings with alcohol. Since this plate set is not specifically designed for my Halot Lite, I am not deducting any stars for that, but I want other Halot Lite users to be aware.There are 2 complete magnet+sheet sets in this kit. That makes it well priced, although I'm not sure I will be using the second set. I might borrow the extra steel plate as a backup.

I had been considering getting a flexible plate for some time, especially for those occasions when printing on a plate is essential, or when removing multiple models proves challenging.This plate has been quite handy. I've already done several prints, and it's performed well. The plate is easy to detach and bend. While prints don't fall off immediately, they become much easier to remove.I'm using the 202x128mm size with my Anycubic Photon Mono K 6X.It's important to note that you need to lower the bed proximity to about 2-2.6 mm, as shown in my picture. I achieved this with a longer M3 bolt and an M4 nut. The printer is working flawlessly, and I'm very satisfied with the results.I can't say yet how long it will last, but after a few extensive prints, there are no signs of wear on the plate or the adhesive.

There's not much that goes into a magnetic build plate. Cut some sheet magnets, cut some spring steel, clean it up and ship it.Whoever cut the spring steel opted to, instead of deburring and breaking the edge, to just go nuts with a grinder. I was in a rush so couldn't return it, but I would if I could.

It didn't take long to install it easy set up.

I got the ALadrs Resin 3D Printer Flex Building Plate for my Phrozen Sonic Mini 8K resin printer and I am glad I did. I have multiple FDM printers and have spring steel magnetic build plates for almost all of them, so I wanted to give them a try for my resin printer. It works the same (almost) on the resin printer as it does for the rest of my printers and makes it easy to remove the print from the printer.You will need to relevel the build plate of course so just follow your normal process. Once the print is done, you can simply remove the build plate and then pop the print off so you can put it in your wash and cure.The best part is that it comes with two so you can put the other build plate on and start printing again right away. So far they are working just as they are supposed to so I can recommend the ALadrs Resin 3D Printer Flex Building Plate!

L'ho acquistato per la mia elegoo Satrun e devo dire che il prodotto è ottimo rapportato al prezzo al quale viene venduto. Il grip della superficie non è molto pronunciato quindi, per avere dei risultati soddisfacenti, è imperativo stampare lo spessore da inserire sul rilevatore dell'asse Z, effettuare nuovamente il livellamento del piatto e (FONDAMENTALE) modificare il tempo di esposizione dei layer iniziali. Non ho effettuato un fine tuning in tal senso ma portando l'esposizione dei primi 5 layer di stampa da 30s a 60s, le stampe sono perfette.