VEVOR 12V LED Pool Light, 10 Inch 40W, RGBW Color Changing Inground Swimming Pool Spa Light Underwater, with 50 FT Cord Remote Control, Fit for 10in Large Wet Niches, IP68 Waterproof, NO Power Supply

We moved into a house with a pool whose lights were tripping the GFCI after about 5 seconds. These lights were cheap and couldn’t be worse than ones that trip the breaker, so…I decided to DIY this. Pool light fixtures are basically sealed units with a long cord that snakes through some conduit up to a junction box. This light had a normal plug so I swapped the hard wire with an outlet (GFCI is on the breaker) an outdoor outlet cover and a plastic box to hold the 120v to 12v transformer and the led controller. It works flawlessly. The remote needs to be kind of close but it works. I realized the controller can be swapped out for a WiFi, Bluetooth or zigbee controller for cheap. That gives you app and automation options behind what this setup provides. Given the cost of a new 500w old school light install, these lights could crap out annually and I’d still be ahead. Happy lighting!

This light has met all my expectations and performs as described. It is a nice upgrade from the old mechanical light it replaced.I did however order the wrong light. I order the one shown assuming it came with a power source. It did not, later I discovered it was a second option you can choose.The physical install was easy, but the instructions relating to electrical connections were not clear -They did show the one they use in the instructions with its name, power input and output visible this made ordering the correct one a little easier.The other issue was the wire color codes used are not the same as in America. Once this is realized you can make the connections properly.Hope this helps you avoid my error.

Easy install

This light has 4 screw holes on a 218mm bolt circle in a stainless steel face ring 9-7/8" in diameter. This light will not cover the 10" hole in every inground and aboveground pool wet niche in the USA. There has never been a smaller wet niche for a pool light in the USA or one that was made with 4 screw holes on that diameter pattern approved by UL or any other safety agency. The mounting screw at the top is used to connect the light fixture shell to an earth grounding wire in the wet niche. This is necessary for safety so that if the LED power supply goes bad the swimmers don't get zapped. An adapter ring would have to be stainless steel. The plastic adapter tabs some have DIY'd for similar lights are not safe. If you're desperate to use these, make a ring from 316 stainless sheet metal. The Chinese standards for 304 and 18-8 are so loose they may rust in pool water, and it would be a lot of work to make again.Anytime since the 1950's a pool built with an unapproved wet niche would fail to meet the building code in all 50 states. The light would need a larger diameter mounting adapter to fit the standard threaded hole on top, tab hook on bottom that's been used since the Paramount and Paragon pool lights of the 1950's. The Hayward 2 screw Duraniche with a threaded screw hole in the bottom hook socket for their Duralite is the only variation other than shallower niches for twin lamp fixtures that were revived for LED fixtures.Every US pool light nice is 10" in diameter to be compatible with a chain of predecessors. It's because the 400w mogul base globe lamp was 6" in diameter and required an 8" polished metal reflector making smallest sealed light backside over 8" in diameter and the smallest feasible multi-screw clamped on face ring over 10" in diameter. A popular brighter wider angle of illumination design in the late 1960's used twin 250W Tubular medium base lamps, again with a polished metal reflector. The shallower design allowed shallower niches and had to be remodeled when the lamps went out of production. The modern R40 medium base 400W and 500W lamp returned the standard to a deeper niche. They also violate an otherwise ironclad rule limiting medium base lamps to 300W even using nickel contacts in a porcelain socket. The reason for an exception has never made sense, the standard 400W and 500W R40 lamps are made with mogul bases and fit in underwater lights made for the 400W globe.

The media could not be loaded. Replaced my jandy light. Love the remote option. The jandy light is a 110 v light. For this light , there is a transformer which turns 110 into a lower voltage ( I believe 12 V) which then goes into the water. I am much more comfortable sending a low voltage into the water than 120. I had to modify my wiring to accommodate the transformer at the pool panel. I bought a protective cover for the white wire connector block to protect it from rain and sun because it was plastic. The transformer is housed in steel, so no protection needed. In the end, it came out awesome.

We decided on the whitest, brightest setting. Easy to use, remote is in its holder in our kitchen window, approximately 60 feet from the controller. Couldn’t be happier!

Worked as expected, will wait how long it last but worth the money compared to other competetiors

Color are bright