Whirlpool W10189966 Control

When our Kenmore Elite Oasis HE Top-Loading washer started stopping and showed F-1 errors, we found out it means the main control board is going bad. We ordered this from Virginia Service Supply through Amazon, and the part arrived quickly and was very easy to install. The F-1 errors went away, and our washer worked fine.Until 3 months later...it started stopping at the final spin with the uL code, which is unbalanced load. It was intermittent at first, and became 100% after a few days. We checked all of the physical parts...the drum suspension, the levelness of the machine, and everything looked good. No items below or around the drum. When the uL indicator comes up, the machine is very quiet and not shaking at all. We found it could be the rotation sensor or the main controller board.We contacted the seller and they asked a couple questions, and agreed to send a replacement. Even if this doesn't solve the problem, the seller was very helpful to agree to send a new control board.Now we just have to see if it fixes the problem or if we need to make more expensive repairs.

So the Cabrio has several SAME achille's heel in that it utilizes push non-soldered wire connections from the harnesses to the components. Big source of headaches. Next, the water level sensor is at the end of a clear plastic tube that the connecting end is submerged!. ummm fellers,,,, duh! I cannot count how many times I had to intercede and cancel-start-pause-start-pause the damn cycle at start and again at 21 minutes!!! Arrrgh. Anyway, this fixes it right outta the (sealed) package. Authentic with Whirlpool warranty sticker. Hope I NEVER need it. It works like new. Some phantom code 93 that was present before the first cycle, GONE! Sucks that it had to cost, sucks that it had to be replaced but IT WORKS NOW, JUST LIKE NEW.btw, I gutted a lawn mower plastic fuel filter and stuck a spare drying package from a camera in it and sealed it and placed it inline the water level tube so that it could always keep whatever precipitated up the tube AWAY from my precious sparkling new washer brain. This unit fixes ALL of the washers, no matter what brand.

Wife bought the Whirlpool Cabrio clothes washer, Model WTW6200SW2, in January 2008. Within a few weeks after the warranty expired, she started getting the infamous F1 error code. The Pause-Start sequence reset the machine, but the problem worsened to the point that every wash cycle required 20-25 resets to complete. Finally ordered the W10189966 board (which replaces the OEM W10112113) on 3/13/13. New board arrived from Carribbean Appliance Parts on 3/18/13, and I installed that day. No installation instructions or other part documentation was included; however, access to the old control board and installation were simple enough--as others have mentioned, a good you-tube video is available. The Cabrio is working flawlessly. Kudos to Carribbean for the prompt delivery. Primary reason the new board doesn't get 5 stars is that it hasn't been in service long enough to declare it thoroughly tested.

I am so proud that I bought this product. I have a Whirlpool Cabrio top load washer. I guess it had to many power surges. Anyway, It started not finishing any cycles on any wash settings or rinse settings. I would have to pause and restart at 4-7 times to do a load of laundry. Anyway, I looked up the manual for trouble shooting and figured out the part that I needed and found it on Amazon. I don't know if this part was refurbished or not but it worked perfectly. We had no problem installing it ourselves. I wash every week and have probably washed 20 plus loads since we put this part in and HAVE NOT HAD ANOTHER LICK OF TROUBLE. Thank you so much for having this part available, and so cheep too.

Bought this washer part when my Kenmore elite Oasis HE washer started displaying a F1 code during a wash cycle. I looked it up and it was control board problem. My washer just kept filling up water but not spinning. I bought this part and the installation was not hard. There's three screws in the back of the board. Remove those three and life the board piece up and away. Theres only one screw that holds the control board down, remove that and unplug the 8 or 9 plugs and just change it out. overall it took about 20-30 minutes. I'm glad it wasn't a hard repair and helped save money to not have to hire a technician from Sears.

The single star really isn't for the control board, which was easy to install and fixed the code-throwing issues on our Maytag Bravo. But only a couple months after buying and installing the control board, the washer began leaking out the bottom. Problem wasn't the drain pump (which apparently is bad about cracking and then leaking), but the tub seal. Replacing that means taking the whole washer pretty much apart. Also need to replace the bearing at the same time, because it gets damaged by the water. I'm not in the mood to take on such a major project for a washer that has problems it never should have had in such a short period of time. Let's see - major potential problems with this washer and its counterpart Whirlpool model include the control board, the drain pump and the tub seal and bearing. Don't waste your money on the circuit board, just buy another washer, and avoid Whirlpool and Maytag like the plague.