MAXRACING 3.5" Front + 3" Rear Leveling Lift Kit Compatible with 2007-2020 Chevy Tahoe / 2007-2020 Chevy Suburban 1500/2007-2013 Chevy Avalanche 1500/2007-2020 GMC Yukon 1500 4WD/2WD

Excellent leveling kit. I installed these on a 2018 Silverado. I'm running 33x12.5R22 mud tires with Yukon Denali 22in wheels (+24 offset, 5.94 backspacing) and no rub. Before the alignment the tires slightly rubbed the sway bar at full lock and didn't rub at all against the fender liner. After the alignment with the caster angle adjusted, there was no rub at all. Be sure to tell the shop to adjust the caster, not all shops will do this without being asked. (Even though they should without being asked) My shop specializes in off-road trucks and they set my caster at +3.7°, which feels about perfect. However, I do have larger upper control arms, so your angle may be different if you keep the factory uppers.I installed larger upper control arms made for 2in to 4in of lift. With the larger control arms, the shop that did the alignment said he nearly maxed out the adjustment on caster, but it was set where it needed to be. He said the factory control arms probably would have adjusted to the correct caster too, but I personally recommend upper control arms since the factory stamped steel upper control arms and factory upper ball joint can fail over time with the lift. There's a lot of geometry change going on and the upper ball joint just can't articulate enough at full extension. Which means it can snap if the wheel extends hard enough.These 2in leveling blocks leveled the truck perfectly flat with no change in the rear. 2.5in is the max that can be added to the front without lowering the transfer case as well as other mods. So, 2in is a good comfortable lift height to simply level the truck with minimal other mods. But again, I do recommend upper control arms. I also recommend sway bar end links since the factory ones had seized and needed to be cut off. (Also, aftermarket sway bar end links improved the smoothness of the suspension so much, and they're not expensive, so go ahead and order them). I used a 4in cutoff saw, and still had to hit the factory ones with a blowtorch to melt the plastic enough to get the bolt out of it. They were trash. The replacement went in without issue.Install was easy. 1. Remove the 21mm nut on the tie rod, tap out and push aside. 2. Remove (or cut off) the sway bar end links. 3. Remove both lower bolts on the strut. Use a pry bar under the strut and pry against the lower control arm to slide the spacer in, then use a pry bar in the space between the upper control arm and the bottom of the spring to push the bottom of the strut inward toward the holes to align them. (With the spacers the bottom of the strut will want to push out toward you, so you'll need to pry it back to slot the bolt in) It takes a little work and a bit of luck to get the first bolt hole lined up. A second set of hands would have gone a long way to make it easier. 4. Insert bolts/washers/nut. Torque the hell out of them. Then retorque after 20 miles and 100 miles. Since you won't be removing the wheel hub assembly, on 4wd the CV axle will be in the way of one of the bolts. Just insert it from the bottom. The bolt cleared on mine but it was close. If needed cut the bolt a smidge. 5. Reinstall the sway bar end links, reinstall 21mm nut on tie rod (you may need a 10mm wrench to keep the ball joint from spinning. I used an impact gun and didn't need a wrench.)An additional note on clearance, I'm installing 2in wheel spacers, so I'll need to do the NorCal mod from rough country to prevent rubbing on the rear of the fender liner. If your wheels have a large offset they'll rub some with 33s. (Actually diameter of my tires is 32.75in)Hope that helps! Great product, great price.

Great, unbeatable ship time and pricing.I wouldn't recommend trying to just disconnect the bottom of the strut and doing 1 bolt at a time squeezing the spacer in as others may suggest. If you're not in the most spacious place with multiple hands to help and tools to pry with it could be tough or impossible.Undo the upper ball joint and undo the sway bar link to the lower control arm.. make sure the wires running to the knuckle are free with slack so nothing breaks and you should be able to pop the bolts in the right way and just wiggle the lower arm up and down by hand or using floor jack while juggling the spacer around until you can either slide the bolts all the way thru or tap them thru with a hammer. Highly recommend you place the bolt thru that's under the axle if you have 4WD.. its way easier to line up the other side after without the axle in the way.

After installing the first side the second side took maybe 20 minutes if that. But here's a tip. Have 2 jacks!!! Makes it much easier trust me. Also during the first side installation, I had my cv axle "pop out" I guess super annoying and demoralizing -.- it took at least 40 minutes to figure out you have to push down on the inner cv boot while manipulating the knuckle to get the axle to go in properly -.-...... either way the axle popped out on both sides so I highly suggest you read this and understand it's not to bad to get back in when you know where to push.

1.5" spacer . lifts truck just enough to take out the overkill rake. still leaves 1.5" rake so not over lifted /perfectly level which i dislike that look. steering is slightly different due to the lift/extension but barely noticeable. suspension seems slightly stiffer but expected as you are putting a little stress on it from the spacer.again nothing major. still rides and drives 95% the same as before maybe 99%. the install was pretty simple if you keep it simple. spent one day trying to loosen all the stabilizer bar and disconnect the upper ball joint ect as instructions suggest. could not get the upper ball joint to disconnect.so put everything back together with no install. few days later decided to im getting it done . the only reason you need to disconnect the ball joint is because the 4WD axle goes right over the bolt hole. so the factory shock/strut bolt is3" the new bolt is 3 1/4" , not a big difference.you are supposed to install bolts pointing down , reason for removing ball joint to allow bolt go through hole facing down, but logic tells you that factory bolts point up(install from bottom point up) so why wouldnt a 1/4 more bolt fit? so i installed bolts up ,tightened correctly, and yes its close to the axle rod but not much closer than it already was with factory bolt. i tppk it around the neighborhood hit some speedbumps ect and figured if it hit the axle then i will re do the install with bolts down. no problems whatsoever , no rubbing anything. have hit the freeway cautiously to make sure , no problems.. so although i agree maybe the bolts should be pointing down to give max clearance, i dont feel its necessary , at least for the 1.5" spacer with the 3 1/4 inch bolt. anything bigger i think is mandatory to install bolts facing down specifically on the 4WD . you will need a prybar or help to push down on the suspension to get the spacer installed under the shock .not necessary to loosen any other bolts besides the 2 shock bolts from control arm. took about 25 minutes each side including time to remove the wheels. hope it helps

Bought this and installed it as soon as I got it the truck still has a bit of rake to it but looks way better . Then it did before really satisfied with the outcome would recommend. ALIGNMENT IS NEEDED THOUGH. Durability is nice as well and the ride is smooth still. Truck looks bad ass !

Works so far

Fit 2009 Chevy SilveradoLeveling was easy and truck looks better