IRWIN Tools Hanson Screw Extractor and Drill Bit Set, 35 Piece, 11135ZR

These extractors ARE made in USA. Some have complained the pckg. Said “Hanson” instead of Irwin. Irwin acquired Hanson in the 90’s. Hanson is IRWIN! Many people have rated these extractors poorly saying either the left hand bit or the extractor snapped immediately. Just because it says extractor doesn’t mean the broken bolt is coming out! These bits and extractors are hardened which means they are more brittle. If you throw too much torque on the bit or extractor it’s going to snap! You have to take your time with bit! “Let the tool do the work son!” A sharp brand new bit doesn’t need a lot of force. Let it cut. When you insert the extractor and first apply torque you have to FEEL the extractor. If you feel it resisting and not breaking loose STOP. Ion the photos attached I snapped a bolt off inside a washing machine transmission spindle. First I drilled a 1/8” hole in the 5/16” bolt. First attempt no go. The extractor was twisting too much. FEEL the torque. If it’s not moving step up to the next size. I drilled the bolt with the 1/4” bit and tried with the next size up extractor. NO GO STILL! But I didn’t just crank on it as hard as I could. I grabbed a small torch and put a 20 second shot of heat on the shaft. Put some torque on the extractor and bolt backed right out like butter! You have to understand how corrosion, heat, penetrating oil etc affect your metals. If the bolt is corroded badly you need a cutting torch not an extractor! This extractor by IRWIN/HANSON is top quality! Works great. If you don’t know what you’re doing and have no mechanical aptitude you shouldn’t blame the product. ;)

So, I watched a few videos on bolt extraction for my classic car. They all seem to show an effortless removal of stuck bolts with a left left-handed drillbit. After working through five other brand drillbits that all broke, I just received this set today and within five minutes, had my problem resolved. My stuck bolt was rusted and below another piece of the frame (it’s hard to get at, but the drill bits went right in). Highly recommend.

First let me say these Extractors size 5 specifically helped me out of a Jam. It easily saved me over $1000 in a shop to have the heads pulled. This got the threaded part of a spark plug out in less than 15 minutes (not counting the overnight Parts Blaster Soak)I ordered these Straight Flute Extractors for work on a Ford Ranger where the Spark Plug HEX broke off in the Head. I had first tried Spiral Extractors however I couldn't get them to bite and pull. Since the spiral causes expansion of the threads it wasn't helping. So I looked online and found these. Wow they got here quick and the quality seemed fine.The prep work to use these was to soak the spark plug tube with Parts blaster or Penetrating oil overnight. I did that last night and just crossed my fingers that it would work. I found the size 5 fit the inside of the plug very well and slightly tapped it in. I had a 13 MM 16 point socket that fit the end of it very well. I took a half inch ratchet and started to turn and it turned but didn't bite. At this point I started to get a little discouraged that I was going to have to get it towed.On second try I hammered the extractor in there. Not very hard but enough where it straightened out and didn't easily move. I then sprayed parts blaster on it and waited 5 minutes. This time when I tried to turn it with the 1/2 inch ratchet it resisted. I put a little pressure and it gave. I though it slipped again but to my surprise it started to spin the threads out. I can no declare how satisfied I am with this product. QUALITY is an understatement.If you need to get out a spark plug and don't think it will work try this.1. Soak the part for at least 24 hours. BE GENEROUS with with liquid wrench or similar product. It will burn off or evaporate when you are done anyway.2 Let it sit at least overnight and maybe spray it a second time and let sit. PATIENCE IS THE KEY!3.Get a size 5 extractor and hammer it into it. As I said no hard hits just tap it in as Happy Gilmore would say.4. Find a good socket that fits the end of the size 5. For me it was a 13 mm 16 point socket. Turn it and see if it gives. If not try soaking longer and if needed use heat. I personally did not need to use a torch to heat it up.5. Have an iced tea or Beer and feel relievedGood luck and don't question the product it works great!

Seems well made, worth its weight in gold when you need it. Have used the left handed drill bits to remove broken exhaust manifold studs.

I really didn't expect this product to work as well as it did. I had considered the cone shape easy out but I heard it compresses the threads more so I chose this style. I am not sure if that is true or not but it made sense. The half inch drive short one worked for my 2006 Jeep 4.7. You need to tap this in with a hammer. I used a flooring hammer that was around 5 lbs. If you use a regular hammer you are going to need to hit hard. Just enough to make sure it is set, no need to get crazy. I also blew out the hole with an air compressor to make sure no shavings got caught in there. I suppose you could use some type of vacuum but consider there is gas and oil in there, not much but some. A thread chaser would be good after you get it out as I did have more than normal resistance getting the new one in. I ran the spark plug in and out a couple of times to reset the threads and it was much better. Make sure to put some wd 40 or pb blaster or seafoam on the threads before trying this for better results.