Dynamat Xtreme Tech Pack Sound Deadening Car Insulation – Noise Dampening for Floor, Doors, Panels, Hood, Engine or Trunk – Easy Self Adhesive Install – Made in USA – 7 Sheets, 18”x32”, 28 sq ft total

It dramatically reduces road noise. It’s heavy stuff. 1/2 pound per square foot. I tried some of the cheaper alternatives (dynoskin, nogevo) and they do not even come close to 10% of what dynamat can do. Its really worth the money.—-Definitely invest in different sized rollers to make it stick to the bumpy and tight areas.—-

I bought a Fluance RT83 turntable for my adult granddaughter (she's new to vinyl). The thin aluminum platter rang like a bell when I tapped on it with my knuckle, not good.So I found this Dynamat Xtreme Sound Deadening material and cut and applied it to the underside of the bell, I mean platter. Wow this stuff did the job. Now all I get is a dull thud when I knock on the platter.After cleaning the platter with Acetone, the deadening material sticks really well. I'm going to keep the left-over piece to dampen amplifier cases etc. Two thumbs up Dynamat.

Excellent product!!!

Perfect transaction and product.

I did quite a bit of research before deciding on Dynamat. There are some cheaper competitors that people swear are just as good and they may be, but I just don't trust them as much. If you do your research you will even see that some people chose to use roofing material that you can buy at Home Depot. Someone would have to be OUT OF THEIR MIND to put $20 worth of roofing tar into a $20,000+ vehicle. The only negative thing people have to say about Dynamat is that it is priced high, but if you buy the bulk packs on Amazon you will save yourself a ton of money and is actually a pretty cost effective solution for DIY work. I have looked around and Amazon has the best price anywhere.Main competitors and my impressions of them. I have not purchased or used these product, but this is an idea of why I chose Dynamat over them. I am not a car audio professional by any means. This is the first time I used deadening on my car and I am writing this to help anyone else who is thinking of doing this.1) RAAMAudio RAAMmat + Ensolite Foam - Most cost effective "legitimate" option.2) Sound Deadener Showdown - "CDL Tiles" + Mass Loaded Vinyl. SDS would be an interesting choice. If you look through forums you will see some people who really like this stuff, but I found the website to be confusing and I could not truly make an informed decision one way or another.3)Fatmat: Cheapest of all automotive dampeners, but one Google search of "fatmat smell" is all you need to know. Some say it smells awful and some don't, but there is no chance I risk it. This stuff is super cheap, does not deaden as well as competitors and stinks. I would use home depot roofing material before this product. Move on.And to the "REAL" competitor.4) Second Skin Audio- Damplifier Pro + Closed Cell Foam (CCF)- Although I decided on dynamat, based on reviews and forum comments, I think that Second Skin Audios product line may in fact be superior to Dynamat, but I decided against it for a few reasons. Damplifier Pro is a good bit heavier than Dynamat extreme. For most, this isnt going to make a huge difference, but I am lining a performance car with more emphasis on performance than sound. I want an improved sound system, but if the increase in weight is only going to improve things very minimally it is just not worth it to me. A lot of people say that Dynamat is the most expensive, but a 36 sq. foot pack of Damplifier pro costs $204+ shipping. They do have some coupons occasionally, but it is more expensive.The fact is Dynamat is proven to work and is trusted by professionals. I do not think you can go wrong with Dynamat because the only bad thing people have to say about it is that the price is high which is a bit of a myth. If you drive a big truck or SUV, want the absolute best sound and aren't as concerned with weight, I would think about the 80sq foot Damplifier Pro shop pack and CCF foam.I turned my trunk into a enclosure with Dynamat Xtreme. I lined just about every surface, doubling up in a few critical areas and was able to line my trunk with this kit. If you want to really go out and line an entire car, you will need 100 sq ft+ of this stuff. If you are doing the trunk and doors like me, you'll need 50-80 sq feet depending on whether or not you plan to cover the entire door. I would use the bulk kit for anything but the doors. You can surely use the Dynamat in the bulk kit on the doors, but the door kit strips 12" x 36" and make for a cleaner install because they will run the full length of any door. It would not be the end of the world to have extra, but I would try to make a good estimate of how much you will need so that you arent leftover with a whole box of this stuff.One final recommendation as I try to unload all of the information I have learned. Dynamat claims that you do not need a heat gun to install Dynamat Extreme. That may be true, but after using a heat gun to put the finishing touches on the trunk, I would have to strongly recommend using a heat gun for trouble areas and difficult corners. I was able to put the Dynamat down so much flatter and nicer by heating it up a bit and rolling it down. it especially helps to heat corners and tight spots where you cannot get the roller in, because it makes it easier to mash the Dynamat down with your fingers. I am not going to use the heat gun on the doors however, as I believe that there are more heat sensitive components in there and do not want to chance it Dynamat claims it is not a necessity.I plan on using Dynaliner on top of the Dynamat in the doors (and trunk I think) as well as by itself in a few areas. I really hope this helps someone. If you have anything to say about my opinions, or would just like to comment on what I have done, please let me know.

It's amazing how much a difference this makes on the large unsupported sheetmetal panels on my van. There's a noticeable difference in the noise when rapping on a panel with a bare fist; it turns a high pitched knock to a low pitched thunk.I have a Ford e350 cargo van, with a 4x4 conversion, and I'm working on putting insulation in it so I can use it as a camping van. My previous van had foil-backed jute insulation, backed by some reflectix bubble wrap. For my new van, I'm starting out with dynamat, then the jute, and then the reflectix.Installation has been a big learning curve for me.* At the beginning of the process, I was doing all of my cuts with a tape measure, and a straight edge. But over time, I found that I can put a piece of the dynamat over the panel I want to line, and then I can use the back of my razor blade to trace the contour of the panel than I want to line, which will leave a divet in the dynamat. Then I can use the sharp edge of the razor to cut the outline of the divet I just traced. This gives very nice panel-shaped pieces of dynamat.* Keep the box it comes in! There's a large flat piece of card board in there, that's the same size as the dynamat. This makes a perfect backing for your cuts.* In my case, since I was working on a van, I was able to leave the box flat in the back of the van, and do all of my cuts there. Having a good large work table is key to doing this comfortably.* I was unsure as to whether I should overlap the pieces, or try to butt them together. I contacted dynamat, and they said that either work. At the beginning of my project, I had been trying to butt the pieces together, but found that there were always gaps which looked bad. Since the, I've been doing overlaps, which I find to look nicer.* When covering a panel that has holes for trim clips or seat bolts, etc, just install the dynamat normally, then you can cut out a small piece where the hole needs to be. If you cut the piece out shortly after laying down the dynamat, it peels up fine. At the beginning of my project, I was trying to pre-cut the holes in the dynamat before installing it, but ended up having a hard time getting it to line up exactly. Cutting out the hole afterwards is much easier. If you're worried about not being able to find it, because it's a small flush hole, then put something like a penny or dime over the hole. You'll be able to see the shape of the coin through the dynamat.* The more contoured the surface, the smaller pieces of mat that you should be using. In my van, the floor has a small area with a few dozen half-inch-wide ribs, and it's hard to get the mat to follow the shape if you use a large piece. And you don't want the air gaps in there, or you'll get rust, and it will supposedly not work as well. Multiple small pieces of mat, perhaps big enough to cover 2-3 ridges at a time, are much easier to manage.* Use the rubber roller to get the mat to stick down. It will save your knuckles versus doing it by hand. I found that I use the dynamat roller mostly, though I also have a j-handle roller with a longer handle -- that unit is less good in tight spaces, but the j-hook does let it edge better, and the longer handle is nicer when doing the roof.* Buy some bandaids -- when you're doing hard-to-get places, you're going to end up with bloody knuckles and such. The insides of the doors have been my hardest area so far.