Smart Switch by Martin Jerry, Single Pole, Smart Home Devices That Work with Alexa, 2.4G WiFi, Need Neutral Wire, Not Dimmer

I purchased the Martin Jerry Smart Switch to replace a battery-operated switch timer that actually moved the wall switch up and down - great idea but past its time. It arrived quickly and the instructions were clear. The switch itself seems well-made and the 4 wires coming from it had wire nuts attached and were clearly labeled. I had some trouble with installation, with which customer service was very helpful (the problem turned out to have nothing to do with the switch or wi-fi, just my own stupidity; it is KEY that all neutral wires in the electrical box itself - the white ones - are touching both the smart switch wire AND each other), but while I was waiting for the electrician to come and tell me that, I contacted customer service to see if they could offer any help and they responded quickly and offered to send me another switch to try out. Instead, I installed the switch in another location to make sure it was working and that I could connect it to my network and Google Home, which was a snap with the SmartLife app I use on my other smart plugs in the house, very easy!.It's now up and running in the location I wanted it for, and I'm going to purchase another for another room.I assume it's as easy to connect to Alexa as to the Google Home.Some tips for installation:1. although the electrician didn't do it, I would recommend turning the power off to the switch at the breaker box to be safe, and invest in an inexpensive voltage tester just to make sure no juice is going to the wires in the box.2. the white wire from the switch goes with the white wires that are probably pushed in the back of the electrical box and aren't usually used for a single-pole light switch. MAKE SURE THEY ARE ALL TOUCHING EACH OTHER and the wire from the switch.3. The green wire goes to the bare copper (or might be green) ground wire(s), also pushed in the back of the box.4. The black and brown wires are a bit trickier - one is the LIVE (or line) and one is the LOAD. In simplest terms, the LINE (or LIVE) wire is the one coming from the breaker box and the LOAD wire is the one going to the fixture. It's sometimes pretty easy to tell when you look at the side of the box each wire is coming from but not always. You might need to try both.5. Turn the power back on before pushing the switch into the box and screwing it in, in case you need to swap the black/brown wires, and test the switch.6. When the switch works by pressing on it, turn the power off again and finish the installation and attach the switchplate, which snaps on.7. Use the SmartLife App to find the switch (little light on the bottom of the switch should be flashing blue) and add it to your system.DONE.

Whenever I buy smart products as affordable as these light switches I'm skeptical. I'm skeptical about the functionality, I'm skeptical about the quality, I'm skeptical about everything. If you're anything like me, then you are too.Well, let me put some of your fears at ease.Physical installation: Provided you were intelligent enough to read in the description that a neutral wire was required installation is a breeze. Flip off your breaker, unhook your old switch, hook up your new switch, and bingo. I had one snag here. There's a live and a load connection, unfortunately, on regular old switches these aren't labeled. Live is from the breaker, Load goes to the load/light you're switching. I hooked mine up backward the first time, oops. Was hoping that was the case and I didn't get a dud. Flipped the breaker, swapped the connections and was back in business quickly. Yes the box is large, yes the household wiring can make things a tight fit. This seems to hold true for all smart switches, as such I was expecting it. No problems there, open the switch you're planning to replace before you order and make sure your box has enough room inside before ordering. As far as the plate goes, yes it is removable/replaceable with a standard decora type plate using the standard mounts as shown in the second picture. I was concerned when I first opened the package despite others saying it was removable. Let's face it, not everyone who reviews products is accurate. At first I was concerned the plate was welded to the switch, it's not, the manufacturer just made sure it was really snuggly on there. A little more prying than I cared for (but ensures a snug fit when you put it back on) and it popped right off. The back of this plate with its clips are shown in the third pictureDigital installation on Google Home: At first I was really disheartened when I opened the manual for where to find their app. I don't use a QR code reader and prefer to look things up myself. Well there are two apps on the PlayStore with the same name and only after scrutinizing the picture was I able to determine the publisher of the one this switch needs is Tuya. I had a little difficulty getting them to pair up because the first time I tried I was closer the router than switch in my home. Walked over the switch and tried it again and the app found the switch. The app doesn't seem to have any strange stand out permissions. Once you've set up everything in the app pairing things up with Google Home was the standard experience. I have had NO issues with the wifi connection dropping on it.The verdict? It's been over a week since we ordered the switch. At first it seemed that the physical operation of the switch felt a little cheap. I talked to my brother-in-law about his switches and had a personal revelation. We don't touch the switch itself much and that really isn't important to us. All in all, we're happy. If anything happens I'll come back and update my review, but we're hoping that is a non-issue. No news is good news.

Really disappointed with this. The first thing I noticed is that if I set the dimmer for the night-light to a low amount, it flickers like crazy. It basically needs to be all the way on or all the way off.Then I noticed that the switch will randomly decide not to turn on or not to turn off both manually or using voice commands through my Alexa. It will work great one moment, then later it just simply will not work at all or it will have an insane amount of delay. Literally minutes after I ask Alexa to turn it on or off it will finally do what I asked. Sometimes it won’t respond at all.Then I found that when I secure the switch in the junction box it twists the switch frame (or something?) which causes the switch button to get stuck.I don’t know if the issue is that the relay inside is getting pinched and cannot move or if the electronics are just junky. I hadn’t seen them before, but after reviewing the comments for this, I now see other people having similar problems.