---
product_id: 84391951
title: "Dorman 419-602 Idler Pulley (Pulley Only) Compatible with Select Models"
brand: "dorman"
price: "₱7205"
currency: PHP
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 5
url: https://www.desertcart.ph/products/84391951-dorman-419-602-idler-pulley-pulley-only-compatible-with-select
store_origin: PH
region: Philippines
---

# Heat & shock resistant OE-certified fit & function Steel construction for durability Dorman 419-602 Idler Pulley (Pulley Only) Compatible with Select Models

**Brand:** dorman
**Price:** ₱7205
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> ⚙️ Upgrade your ride with the pulley that keeps you moving—durability meets precision!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Dorman 419-602 Idler Pulley (Pulley Only) Compatible with Select Models by dorman
- **How much does it cost?** ₱7205 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.ph](https://www.desertcart.ph/products/84391951-dorman-419-602-idler-pulley-pulley-only-compatible-with-select)

## Best For

- dorman enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted dorman brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Built to Last:** Crafted from premium steel to withstand heat, shock, and corrosion—engineered for longevity.
- • **Precision Engineering:** Manufactured under strict quality standards ensuring perfect OEM compatibility and seamless installation.
- • **Lightweight Powerhouse:** Compact design at just 249g delivers robust performance without adding bulk.
- • **Trusted Brand Assurance:** From Dorman, a leader in automotive parts, guaranteeing reliability and peace of mind.
- • **Universal Compatibility:** Fits a wide range of select models with multiple OE part numbers for hassle-free replacement.

## Overview

The Dorman 419-602 Idler Pulley is a steel-constructed, OE-certified replacement part designed for select vehicle models. Engineered to resist heat, shock, and corrosion, it ensures long-lasting performance and precise fitment. Lightweight yet durable, this pulley is manufactured to strict quality standards by Dorman, a trusted name in automotive components.

## Description

This accessory drive belt tensioner pulley is designed to match the fit and function of the original pulley on specified applications. Made of quality materials, it is engineered for reliable performance and durability.

## Features

- Steel construction for long-lasting durability against heat, shock and corrosion
- Manufactured to strict engineering quality standards
- Original Equipment (OE) Number: 5L3Z8678BA, XW4Z8678CA, XW4Z8678DA, 10129569, 12555244, 12555245
- International products have separate terms, are sold from abroad and may differ from local products, including fit, age ratings, and language of product, labeling or instructions.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| Manufacturer | Dorman Products |
| Brand | Dorman |
| Model | 419-602 |
| Product Dimensions | 11.43 x 3.56 x 11.43 cm; 249.48 g |
| Item model number | 419-602 |
| Exterior | Machined |
| Manufacturer part number | 419-602 |
| OEM Part Number | 36275; 36299; 38001; 45975; 49001; 49154; 5975; 89006; 89097; GM1413162; KR-139032; SK89006; 10067479; 10069964; 10124631; 10129569; 10141997; 10187662; 10229114; 10237275; 12552358; 12552361; 12552509; 12555244; 12555245; 12555609; 12563084; 12564505; 12564510; 12580771; 12580773; 12669569; 14102645; 15662645; 166200W100; 166200W101; 1L2Z8678AB; 1L2Z8678AD; 22521201; 25527750; 2F2Z6C348AC; 31170-P8A-A01; 31170-P8F-A01; 3543027; 4483214; 4483469; 4536074; 4536154; 4536154AB; 4536173; 4556027; 4612894; 4612894AB; 4612894AC; 4792112; 4792112AD; 4792112AE; 4792410AC; 4792410AD; 53002905; 53030958; 53030958AB; 5L3Z8678BA; 6L2Z6C348A; 8-14102-645-0; 8101419970; 83505475; E7TZ6B209A; E7TZ6B209D; E9SZ8678A; F0ZZ6B209B; F1ZZ6B209C; F2TZ6B209C; F2UZ6B209A; F2UZ6B209B; F4CZ 6B209 A; F5RZ6C348B; F7CZ6C348AA; XS4Z6B209AA; XW4Z6B209AA; XW4Z8678CA; XW4Z8678DA; YS4Z8678BB |
| Position | Centre |
| Item Weight | 249 g |

## Images

![Dorman 419-602 Idler Pulley (Pulley Only) Compatible with Select Models - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91THQJ3Jx2L.jpg)

## Questions & Answers

**Q: what is the diameter of this pulley in millimeters?**
A: The precise diameter of the pulley tensioner is 3.54" wide x 1.18" deep or 90mm x 30mm ... I just now noticed that this question was posted and even answered 8 yrs ago! .. so I'm hoping that within the 8yrs since the original post the person was able to get the information they were seeking

**Q: would like to know if this will fit the passenger and driver side i have a/c and i have a ford 2008 f150 stx 4x4 4.6L  extended cab need driver side**
A: I'm not sure why you are asking about if it will fit driver/passenger side because it's just a tensioner pulley. I apologize if I missed something nor am I trying to be disrespectful in any way.. anyhow I hope you got your question answered by the right person. Have a blessed day

**Q: Does it a fit a 2007 ford taurus se i seen someone on youtube say it will fit but on here and on dorman's website says it doesn't**
A: Sorry it will not work for that vehicle

**Q: what is adjustable on it? and it mentions steel or plastic, can I be sure i get steel?**
A: Not sure why it states steel or plastic. There is nothing adjustable on it.It fit great. No problems installing

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 







  
  
    Fit perfectly, no problems!
  

*by J***. on Reviewed in Canada on 26 December 2022*

Replaced the idler pulley on my Ford Taurus.  Easy to install, fits perfectly & havehad no issues with it at all.  Would definitely recommend this product.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 







  
    Mismas dimensiones qué la pieza original. Buena calidad
  
  

*by A***S on Reviewed in Mexico on 2 May 2022*

La use en mi jeep cherokee sport 1999.Le quedó como la original, pieza de buena calidad.La recomiendo.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 







  
  
    Some tips on installation
  

*by S***R on Reviewed in the United States on 5 January 2019*

I put this idler pulley on today, and it stopped the squeak in my 2001 Ford Taurus wagon with 3.0L V6 (Vulcan) engine. I bought this brand because several reviewers said it had good life span, and the price was right.I can't speak to the life span, but thought I'd share some tips I discovered on installation procedure. This is the long version, with anecdotes. So if you're a slow reader or in a hurry, this is not for you. But if you have the time, perhaps this can save you some aggravations and give you the confidence to do the job yourself. It's not a hard job, if your handy. The main problems you are likely to encounter are (1)  diagnosing the problem, so you know you need an idler pulley, and (2) finding a way to release the tension on the tensioner pulley, so you can slide the belt off and then on again.I spent a long time watching videos on diagnosing belt squeal problems. I found one by ChrisFix on YouTube to be very helpful. It's called “How to Fix a Squeaky Belt (figure out where the squeak is coming from).”When I first looked at this car in 2014, I heard a chirping sound that I thought was a belt. But on analyzing the problem after I got the car, I discovered it wasn't coming from the belt area. It turned out to be the camshaft synchronizer. It's a pretty common problem on these Tauruses. When a similar sound reappeared a few weeks ago, I thought the cheap, non-OEM replacement I'd used had gone bad already--even though I only put about 400 miles a year on this car.But when spraying the drive belt with water made the sound go away, I knew it was somewhere in the drive belt area. The Good Year Gatorback belt looked pretty good, and the previous owner's records showed it was less than 10,000 miles old. (The car has just 101k miles on it). I decided to remove the belt to be able to examine it and have a look at the various pulleys it passes over. The most likely culprits are the tensioner or idler pulleys.The first problem you face in belt removal is how to get enough leverage on a 15mm wrench to be able to pry the tensioner pulley towards the front of the car, while you slip the belt off the alternator pulley. You can't use any normal-type socket and extension handle, because the space your working in between the crankshaft side of the engine and the wheel well is too narrow. A shallow socket will fit on, but you'll never get the handle in there as well. There are specialized tools, including an $18 one from HarborFreight, but many reviewers reported breakage or bending of this on first or second usage. And I didn't want to spend the money for a better one that I'd rarely use.I found a helpful videos by Mike Green from 1AAuto that shows replacement of the idler pulley, including belt replacement and reinstallation. He's got a lot of clear and well-made videos to help you install the parts he sells. I feel a little bad using them to put on parts I've bought from other sources (but not bad enough not to do it). He uses the closed end of a 15mm combination wrench to grab the bolt on the tensioner. Then, to add leverage, he hooks in a second, larger wrench. (If you're really strong, you don't need the extra leverage, but I'm 73 and not a bruiser.)  After a few tries, I got Mike's method to work well enough that I could remove the belt.Then I went through the process of examining each of the pulleys. By far the loosest was the power steering pump. It had end play (in-and-out motion) of almost 1/8-inch. But after googling this, I found a number of posts on Taurus Club of America that said this is normal. So I looked some more. and discovered that the idler pulley made a grinding noise as you spun it. It also had a little end play, though nowhere near as much as the power steering pump. So I was pretty sure the idler pulley was the problem.Just to be sure, I took the belt all the way off (after taking a photo to remember the routing), and started the engine. There was no squealing sound at all, which told me the problem was definitely in the drive belt area, and most probably the idler pulley. The pulley came off pretty easily. It's held on with just one bolt with a 16mm head.Well, I was about to order this Dorman replacement pulley, when I saw a review by a guy who had discovered that the bearing is a standard 6203-2RS (17x40x12mm) . He simply knocked out the old bearing and put in a replacement one for a cost of $3.That sounded intriguing, and that way I'd also be able to reuse the original Ford pulley body which was in excellent condition. But when I went to knock out the old bearing using a 3 lb. hammer and a hefty 26mm socket as a punch, I couldn't get it out. You'd need a socket  in the 45mm-plus range (or maybe a piece of steel pipe of 2 to 2.5 inch i.d.)  to hold the body of the pulley, while you hammered out the bearing with a socket of less than 40 mm diameter. The cost of the oversized sockets, or of a proper bearing press kit, would be way more than the $15 Dorman replacement part. So with a mighty act of will, I overcame my cheap gene and pulled the trigger on this Dorman replacement part.Now it was time to install it . First thing, I compared it to the original Ford part. I was worried that the surface that carries the belt was going to be a little narrower than the OEM part, as one reviewer had mentioned. But I found this wasn't true of the part I received. Both surfaces are 1-3/16 inches wide. The original Ford part may be slightly heavier than this replacement, but the Dorman replacement feels plenty sturdy enough. The only thing that is going to wear out again is the bearing, and there's no telling what the quality or longevity of that is. By the feel of it, there is plenty of grease packed in there, so I'm not really worried about it, especially given the low mileage I put on this vehicle.The part comes with a brass insert that goes inside the pressed in bearing and sits between it and the engine wall. It looked like an excellent part and had the right thickness to hold the idler pulley away from the engine and provide plenty of clearance. The part of it that sits inside the bearing would provide a nice axis for turning, and brass makes a great bearing surface. I probably should have used it, but as I'd read some reviews by people who said it didn't work, I decided not to. Instead, I just reused the odd-looking washer that was on the original part. This is a steel washer with 3 teeth that bend in and grab the thread of the mounting bolt. I am talking about the inner (closer to the engine) side of the idler pulley. On the outer side of the idler pulley there is a larger, normal-shaped washer that goes between the bolt head and the pulley. Of course, I reused this as well.The idler pulley went on easily. I just tightened down the bolt with my 3/8 inch ratchet with 10-inch handle until it was as firm as when I took it off. Don't see a need for a torque wrench for this application.Then came the problem of rerouting the belt. I found a routing diagram in my Chilton's manual, which is a lot easier to read than any photograph you can take down into that black hole. Rerouting is a little tricky the first time you try. As your arm can't squeeze in all the way down around the bottom of the crank shaft and AC compressor pulley, you need some kind of long tool to maneuver the belt. (I ended up using the 30-inch steel shaft of my longer adjustable wood clamp.) After a few false starts, and some frustration,  I got the belt routed right.Then came that pesky tensioner release. I tried again using the 15mm combo wrench with a 17mm wrench hooked into it for added leverage. You've got to work this with your right arm, while you use your left hand to maneuver the free end of the belt around the alternator. Although it worked for removal, I could not get this to go for the reinstallation. The wrench came off the bolt head several times and dropped down onto the under-car engine protector, requiring a magnetic pickup tool to fetch it out. I was getting frustrated.One problem seemed to be that my Husky wrench has a good sized offset. The space between the tensioner bolt and the wheel well is narrow, and the other end of the wrench ends up hitting against the radiator overflow tank. (I had earlier started to remove this. But after removing the two small hoses, I realized you'd have to drain fluid to get the larger hose at the bottom off. Seemed like too much trouble.)Thinking that the offset angle on the Husky-brand wrench was the problem, I tried an old cheap set of metric wrenches I've had since the '80s. These had less of an offset, but the open end of these, where you have to hook the leverage wrench, is just too short to get a hookup. Then I thought of the old pipe trick for getting extra leverage. I knew I had a piece of steel gas pipe somewhere that might fit, but couldn't find it. I found a 20-inch length of 3/4 M copper pipe in the basement. but feared it might be too large and too soft. (Copper pipe for plumbing is graded K,L and M, with M being the thinnest walled). But to my surprise it worked. To make it easier, I duct-taped the pipe onto the 15mm wrench, so it worked like one piece, instead of two. I thought I felt a little bending, but I was able to work the free end of the belt around the alternator, keeping those little finger tips out of the way in case my improvised tool should bend or snap.Started the car up, and that annoying sound is gone—forever we hope. . . .If anybody has gotten to the end of this screed, I hope it helps. For the rest of you, good luck.

## Frequently Bought Together

- Dorman 419-602 Idler Pulley (Pulley Only) Compatible with Select Models
- ACDelco Gold 38158 Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly with Pulley, Aluminum w/ Black Pulley

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*Product available on Desertcart Philippines*
*Store origin: PH*
*Last updated: 2026-01-31*