Posi Lock110 10" Reach, 1" - 15" Spread, 20 Ton Capacity 3 Jaw Puller, 20 tons Capacity, 9.2/3" Reach

We got this for our shop. Total beast, if you can't get a shaft out of the bearing/hub with this, your probably going to need to torch it out. Between this and the "hub shocker, tool" , our shop has never come across a wheel bearing it couldn't handle. With have this 20 ton & the 10ton. If you live in the rust belt and you turn wrenches this is a awesome tool to have. Makes easy works of frozen axles to bearing and hubs. Also used on a few frozen on rotors & drums. Well built, heavy piece and replacements parts readily available.

What's not to like? Posi-lock pullers, when properly used can be used for a variety of pulling jobs. This time I used it to pull a bearing hub rusted to an axle shaft. Rust was no match for Posi Lock.

Purchased this item to remove the brake rotors from our Sonata's, which I swear become welded to the wheel mounts. Have used a dent puller in the past to provide the force required to dislodge the rotors, but had been faced with a far greater challenge this last fall. Tried the idea from U-Tube using the screw and nut trick, but failed miserably. This Jaw Puller was a bit pricey, but taking the car to the brake shop would have been far worse. The first try with this puller worked great - being slow and gradual while keeping the torque at about 20-40 ft-lbs provided excellent results. My second approach on the other side was also successful, but not without breaking the rotor first, due to being less gradual and more forceful. Conclusion: Soak the rotor/wheel mount interface with penetrating oil, use gradual torque [20-40 ft-lbs] on the Jaw Puller (WELL BELOW THE SPEC LIMIT), be patient, and use a hammer to tap the rotor during removal - it helps to loosen the bond between the interface and gives you something to do so as to not get bored. Good Luck!

I used to have a big problem trying to hold a 3 finger puller together , I used rubber bands but it still was hard to hold it in place until it tightened, those days are gone , it was expensive compared to the other pullers but a lot easier and safer to use, no more flying apart when one of the jaws slipped off, I will never go back to the old pullers without the ease and safety of this type of puller

Expensive tool, but only way I found to remove a 22" spoke flywheel I'm restoring on a 5hp Fairbanks Morse hit and miss antique engine. Read a blog on oldiron website that someone used it for same purpose.

This is a high-quality, well-made HD tool. Their customer service is friendly and helpful.The problem I face is the plate I needed to pull off a hub is 14" in diameter and it was very, very difficult to get the jaws to spread that far. Very. Even then the jaws sat well above the plate or you could say the center screw was too long.Oh, order the extra long arms. 3 extra long arms cost more than the puller.It would be nice if they gave you a planning guide on lining up the job with the puller and offered the extra long capability as separate models.I hope it works. This has been a very, very expensive tool.

Had some stubborn pulleys to remove and it is much safer than putting in a hydraulic press. I've used many regular "cheap" pullers in the past, but was glad when I had this to remove a pulley. It had a much higher capacity rating than the cheap pullers, too and it can lock in place without falling off. In our press, I've had pieces go flying when they moved a little. This puller was able to remove a pulley that the press couldn't so I'm happy with this even though I've never spent this much on a hand tool before.Furthermore, I didn't have to go to town to pay at the local machine shop and additionally, have to possibly wait a few weeks until they had time to get to it since they're usually a few weeks behind on work anyway.

Perfect 🥰