Low Cost, Low Volume Resist, Electrically Conductive Silver Epoxy Adhesive, AA-Duct 906, 2.5gm kit

The solder had broken lose on the rear window defroster of my Jeep Wrangler. The jeep dealer wanted $235 to repair it. I checked with my regular mechanic and he was afraid he would damage the window trying to resolder it. Since I wouldn't pay the jeep dealer the unreasonable price I started checking around for other alternatives and found this silver conductive glue and decided to give it a try. Long story short it worked great. BE SURE TO FOLLOW DIRECTIONS THAT COMES WITH THE GLUE!!!! After preparing the glue I applied a small amount on a small piece of cardboard to let it cure some (let it get a little tacky). In the case of my Wrangler there is a small button that can detach from the wire so that made it much easier to glue and hold with the tacky glue. I used a toothpick to apply the glue which prevented any major mess. I didn't have to use any tape as the glue held fine after I pressed it in place with the toothpick for a couple of minutes. If tape is needed to hold in place I would recommend blue tape. Be sure you wait the full 24 hours to let the glue completely cure. I highly recommended this product.

I bought this (AA-DUCT 906) to repair a broken (cracked) carbon trace in a volume control (20 Kohm potentiometer). It's a single use product, even at 2.5g it was more product than I needed. The mixing instructions were straight-forward and the 40X-edge-of-the-desk mixing technique was easy. Material was viscous enough to easily apply to a small area and not have it "contaminate" nearby items, really a no mess application. So I had a small crack in the carbon trace in the POT. I used a toothpick to apply a smooth layer of the product across this crack bridging it to the metal tab (which eventually will get re-soldered on to PCB). I left this for 24hrs in a 68F room (suggested time is 24hr @65F for proper cure). In addition to the repair I had a large test sample left over (plan was to use this sample to test the cured product for conductivity in addition to the POT). So end result is I have a solid bond on my POT but it's high resistance...in the Meg Ohm region. Not the solution planned. Was hoping for a low resistance (<10ohm) connection. The test sample seems to be almost insulated on the outside. Only when I roughed up the sample did I get a high MegOhm value reading on my DMM. I used needle tip probes to jab the test sample. So not sure where to go from here, but this product was not the correct solution.

When my rear window defroster connection broke, I thought that I might need a new window. Then I found this electrical epoxy. I had a question about the epoxy and emailed the company late in the evening. I noticed in the package that there was a tiny amount of clear hardener liquid. I wondered if it was enough. I thought that I would get a response the next day, but they responded within 30 minutes! The technician assured me that it had the correct amount of hardener. The instructions noted that the epoxy needs to cure at 60°F or more. Fortunately the rear window is removable on my Bronco. So I was able to bring it inside. I cleaned up the connections with 220 grit sand paper and rubbing alcohol. There was plenty of epoxy to apply and I put some extra around the other connector on the other end of the window. After curing for 24 hours, the epoxy was hard. I reattach everything. It's been 2 weeks and the defroster is working perfectly fine!

Product worked well. Had a older wrapped wire reostat that the wire broke and as such broke the circuit. Used material as directed to paint over the top of the wire and the substrate the wire was wrapped on. Used home made kitchen clay (2 parts baking soda + 1 part corn starch, add water and heat until thickened) formed a dike around the broken area, used broken tooth pick to fill the dike and coat the area of concern. The unmixed base material was not conductive. Mixed material did not become conductive until it started hardening. Sped up hardening by preheating item in 150 F oven and returning after treatment. Cured in about an hour and used razor blade to remove excess epoxy material from unwanted areas. Issue was not enough technical information was available. Had to figure it out myself through experimental design, so took much longer.

Rear window electric heater defroster grid repair. This is a one time use that is a permanent repair and electrically conductive, suitable for your rear window defroster. The electric tab broke off from its adhesive at the window, leaving a slightly rough surface at the window and on the metal tab. I sanded the back of the metal tab with 120 grit to make it about 90% flat. Very careful and slowly sand the area that the tab is to be reattached to, also with 120 grit the repair area is about a half inch square and you need that 90% flat and the epoxy will fill in the gaps and firmly reattach the tab permanently. Don’t sand outside the area or damage any of the grid lines as this will all be visible when your repair is complete Very carefully apply a strip of sensitive surface blue painters tape over the repaired tab and let it sit in the sun for 24 hours as the heat will help cure. Don’t try to reattach the wire yet, wait 24 hours, and when you take the blue painters tape off, if it doesn’t move, you did everything right and you can reattach the connector this is electrically conductive edit will fix your defroster if the broken tab what is the problem

Reattached the (originally) soldered on connector to rear window defogger glass. Not used to trying to mix epoxy within a sealed package, but it seemed to work ok, just too early to tell after 1 week. The amount provided seems insufficient to complete even the smallest projects.

I used this to repair a high-grade antenna. The adhesive was easy to use, mixed well, and created a solid bond that has resisted 45-60 mph winds. This was just enough for my need, so I didn't have to purchase a larger amount that would just sit and go bad from disuse. I'll buy more of these, no doubt.