Signstek Borosilicate Glass Plate for MK2 MK3 Heated Bed 3D Printer 213x200x3mm

Used on a stock ANET A8 3D printer. Works perfect---perfect size, super smooth surface-- no more tape, no more glue! I have two little pinch-type paper clips holding the glass sheet directly on top of my stock bare aluminum heat bed. I'm printing with inexpensive PLA filament and running the heat bed with the attached glass between 59 to 63 degrees C. The actual temperature I set depends on the size of the print. Note: Bigger prints require less heat to stay attached, and benefit from cooler temperatures-- less heat = less distortion to the bottom layers over the period of the print . That being said, I run the majority of my prints at 60 degrees C. PLA print objects hold firm with this glass while the heat bed is held at 60 deg. After printing and letting the bed cool to about 40 degrees C, my prints pop right off with a very light pull or push--- no more scraping or prying required-- it is almost like magic! (Disclaimer: I haven't tried printing with ABS filament.)

As the review title states, I bought this for my BIBO Touch 2 3D printer. I emailed BIBO asking if they sold glass plates for their printers here on Amazon, to which the BIBO representative who has been helping me told me that BIBO doesn't, but she told me this Signstek plate would fit, and she's right. This plate isn't precisely the same dimensions as the plate that comes with the BIBO Touch 2. In comparison, this plate is the same length as the BIBO plate, but a bit narrower in width AND in thickness. The difference in width is negligible, it only makes it that much more obvious if you accidentally load the build plate in wrong. However, the smaller thickness means that you will have to re-level your build plate every time you swap between these two glass plates. But again, this doesn't affect me much, since 1. I liberally smear my glass plates with glue stick and 2. I remove my from the printer to let the glass cool down and facilitate print removal. This means I'm constantly re-leveling the build plate in my BIBO anyway. But, I'm aware some potential buyers here may have a solid build plate setup that doesn't require much leveling, so the smaller thickness of this plate may be a deal breaker (at least in regards to BIBO printers in my experience).

I have a Monoprice 13860 Maker Select 3d Printer V2 . Comes with a heated bed. I put down a layer of 400mm x 205mm x 0.5mm Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink on top of the heated bed and then put the glass over it. The glass fit well, a tad bit smaller than the bed but that's okay otherwise it would bump into the four corner screws. The first print went better than I expected--bed temperature was set at 50C and the print took about 20 minutes. I loved how smooth the first layer looked. On the second print the first few lines had issues adhering to the bed. Checked the bed level and had issues leveling it. Thought that was odd, but then I noticed the glass was peeling up the thermal pad on two opposite corners. I took the glass off the bed, put it on a level surface, and sure enough it was warped. It's so warped I can see-saw the glass back and forth like a chair with uneven legs!

This glass works amazingly well with the purple elmer's glue. I initial was using blue painters tape but that would peel away from the glass if the part's edge was near the tap's edge. Once I switch to the purple elmer's glue I've had zero bed warping issues. The best way I've found to use the glue is to use a fresh application for each print. It only takes a few seconds to apply and wash off so its not an issue. My process is first clean off any left over glue/residue from previous prints with a wet cloth, and dry. When the bed is cold (e.g <30C) apply the glue stick in a parallel zigzag patterns along an axis. I apply three coats this way, all at once without waiting for the previous to dry. I then let the glue dry completely before start heating the bed and start printing. The glue drys pretty quickly so I generally use this time for a quick bed leveling check.

I bought this glass sheet for use with my Prusa Mendel i2. I have been using it for some time, and thought I was having troubles with my bed leveling.I would make sure each of the 4 corners were at the same height, but my first layer always seemed to lay down unevenly. I was able to compensate, but it was really irritating and blew up quite a few prints! Finally, I checked this glass sheet with an accurate straightedge and discovered that the center of the sheet is bowed up nearly 0.2 millimeters! When I print things with a 0.05mm layer height, that is a huge problem! And if I compensate with the software, on a large print where the center is a good height then the outer edges won't stick and always peel up and curl. Maybe I just got a bad sheet, but I am very hesitant about trying to get another glass sheet for fear I will pay ANOTHER $15 and still have a bowed surface. *EDIT* - I bought an 8" square of borosilicate glass from McMaster-Carr for $30 and it is dead flat in all directions. Makes for an awesome print surface!

Pretty good so far, seems flat, but more precise measurements are required. Fits perfectly on my MK2B PCB heatbed. Print out glass holders or use those big office clips (the black ones with 2 handles) to attach to PCB.