Detroit Axle - Front Tie Rods Kit for Toyota Camry Sienna Avalon Solara, Lexus ES300, 4 Inner & Outer Tie Rod Ends, 2 Rack & Pinion Boots & Bellows, Replacement

Heavy and substantial — fit my 1997 Toyota Camry perfectly. Came complete with lock washers for inner tie rod and inner metal bellows clamps (you’re expected to reuse the small outer bellows clamps).I am not a professional mechanic and had never replaced tie rods before so I spent time reading and watching online videos. Most videos are very helpful, but I found some bad advice so I will list a few of my recommendations below.Each time I drive this 240K miles Camry out of my neighborhood I encounter a long slow left-hand curve. Over the past few months I’ve noticed what felt like a slight wobble in the right front wheel. I had also noticed that steering was not precise at highway speeds. So I jacked up the right front wheel to see what I could discover. With my hands at 9 and 3 o’clock positions, I could rock the wheel back and forth slightly. Removing the wheel, I could see the bellows of the inner tie rod was ripped. Ripping it further so I could see the ball joint on the inner tie rod, I could see all the movement was in that ball joint. It appeared that the hole in the bellows had allowed water to get into the ball joint and compromise the lubricant.I chose this kit primarily because it included new bellows. I figured that if I had to remove the outer tie rod anyway, might as well replace it too. And, if I did one side, might as well do both sides and make it a complete tie rod overhaul. I am writing this review because at the time I’m writing it there was only one other review offering no details other than the buyer was apparently satisfied with the product.If you have never replaced tie rods before, watch as many videos as you have time for, and I offer the following recommendations:First, you need the following tools:• tie rod tool• torque wrench (1/2” recommended)• large channel-lock type pliers• screwdriver at least 12” long with typical 3/16” to 1/4” flat blade• hammer or tie rod puller• grease gunThe tie rod tool, torque wrench, and puller are available for free rent at most auto parts stores.Mistake #1 —I figured that turning the steering fully to the left would give me more room to work on the right tie rod. It turned out this was not only not necessary, but made it impossible to stretch the bellows enough to attach the inner clamp. I had to leave the bellows unattached and complete the outer tie rod installation, then replace the wheel and lower the car so I could start the car and turn the wheel straight ahead to get enough slack in the bellows to attach the inner clamp. Learned— setting the steering straight ahead still allows plenty of room to work, allows enough room in the bellows to attach the clamps, and makes it unnecessary to reposition the steering to replace the tie rods on the opposite side.There is probably some advantage to putting the car on a full lift, but not that much. I used a jack and jack stands and found I had plenty of room to work. At no point did I need to get underneath the car so there’s no need to jack it up more than needed to raise the tire off the ground for removal.Removing the old outer tie rod can be easy or difficult. Rather than getting a tie rod puller, I chose to use the hammer method. After removing the cotter pin and castle nut, whack the side of the steering knuckle with a few solid hits to loosen the tie rod end. Assuming you’ll be replacing it anyway, also whack the bottom of the bolt to knock it loose. Or, you can use a tie rod puller. I had a little difficulty using the hammer method and was starting to wish I had rented a tie rod puller before it finally broke free.Surprisingly, the most difficult task I encounter in replacing the tie rods was removing the inner metal bellows clamp. If it’s original, there will be a small loop just large enough to get a standard size flat screwdriver bit into, then you have to twist to break and remove the clamp. On both sides I found this loop on top towards the rear of the car, probably impossible to see if under the car, and maybe impossible to get to from that direction. This would have been quite easy if I had a long screwdriver as described above. I had several very long screwdrivers which would easily reach, but all had blades too large to get into the clamp’s loop. I was finally able to use a standard flat-blade screwdriver, extended by a pair of pliers, to twist and pop the clamp. Removing the inner bellows clamps was by far the most time consuming and frustrating part of replacing the tie rods. As is typically the case, the right tool would have made it quick and easy. As much trouble as I had with the inner clamp, I chose not to use the replacement metal clamps provided and instead used a large zip-tie (as many tie-rod replacement kits provide).Speaking of having the right tool, you MUST use a tie rod tool to remove the inner tie rod! Use a flashlight to see where the lock washer has been crimpled. Place the blade of a long strong screwdriver on the crimp and tap the screwdriver with a hammer to bend the crimp back off the flats so the inner tie rod can be removed. The tie rod tool and torque wrench are necessary tools to do this job correctly. I’m not sure you could even do it without the tie rod tool — which looks like a tube with one end connecting to the inner flats of the tie rod and the opposite end typically a 1/2” socket for which you would use a breaker bar for removal and a torque wrench for installation. Again, these are available for free rental at auto parts stores. Or you can buy them and still save money over what a auto repair shop would charge to replace the tie rods.When installing the new inner tie rod, many of the videos said to use red Locktite to lock the threads. I mentioned this to several mechanics prior to commencing the replacement and they all recoiled in terror. All said they simply used the appropriate torque and used the lock washer. After some studying, I found that breaking threads secured with red loctite requires heating the bolt to at least 500°F. That seems to be extreme, but I did use blue loctite for a little insurance. I haven’t read of any inner tie rods unscrewing, but the resulting complete loss of steering is not a situation I would like to face. Or, a less dire result, a loose inner tie rod would prevent secure alignment. One video instructed to put red Loctite on the outer tie rod screws – Gads! I’m sure the alignment shop was happy with that!Mistake #2 —This product includes new lock washers which are just like the originals. They have a tab which fits into a grove in the steering shaft, then is crimped over the flats on the tie rod to prevent it from turning. You must slip the lock washer over the steering shaft, align the tabs with the grooves, and hold the lock washer in position as you hand-tighten the inner tie rod onto the shaft. I positioned the lock washer in the grooves, but failed to continue holding it in position as I tightened down the tie rod. Something didn’t feel right as I tightened the tie rod and I feared the tabs had not maintained alignment with the grooves, so I removed the tie rod and as I had feared, the tabs had been smashed and mangled and wouldn’t have kept the tie rod from loosening. I felt lucky to have not used red Loctite! I grabbed the second lock washer and held it in position, learning from my mistake, and it didn’t feel like I was crushing tabs when I tightened it down.Don’t forget to crimp the lock washer to the flats on the new inner tie bar. Some people recommended unnecessarily complex measures to do the crimping, including the extreme measure of removing the entire steering rack so they could do the crimping on their workbench. All you need is a large pair of Channellock type pliers to bend the washer over the flats. If the outer part of the tie rod gets scarred up in the process, that won’t hurt anything. If there are more than two flats, you only need to crimp your choice of two opposite flats. Since I had mangled one of the lock washers, for the second side I chose the better of the two old lock washers and flattened the previous crimp using a hammer and anvil, being careful not to damage the lock tabs.Most instructions say to count the number of turns used to remove the old tie rod end from the inner tie rod and to use the same number of turns with the new tie rod, and I would say that is a good method to get the alignment close enough to enable you to drive the car to an alignment shop. You can double-check the length by assembling both the old and new tie rods using the counted number of turns and laying them side by side to adjust the length of the new to match the old.You will need a grease gun and grease. These tie rod ends have zerk grease fittings which is good because that allows grease selection and maintenance. But it does not come pre-loaded with grease so you will need a grease gun to pack the outer tie rod ball joint with grease. I don’t think it would be a good idea to try to drive it anywhere dry, not even just to the alignment shop. I suggest paying a little more for a decent grease gun with a flexible hose and pistol grip (I paid $20). The lever type can be a little less expensive but is cumbersome and you may not be able to position it for some fittings. The mini grease guns are cheaper but get a lot of complaints. One more tip – there are many complaints that grease gun tips get stuck on the fittings and require prying off, sometimes breaking the fitting. There’s a simple solution to that – the grease gun tips screw on and loosening the tip slightly allows the tip to slip on the fitting easily, tighten to seal the connection, then loosen to remove from the fitting.Having never replaced tie rods before, I allowed myself plenty of time, and took my time. The first side took about 4 hours (almost an hour of that to get the inner bellows clamp off without the proper tool); the second side about 3 hours. I had checked around to find what replacing the tie rods would cost and found the range was $300-400. When getting the alignment done, I asked what they would have charged. They said $600 for both sides – it turns out that the prices I was quoted were for only one side. Not only that, but they said that price did not include alignment (another $80). Some people say the job should take only about an hour, and that’s probably true if doing it for a living. I could probably do it again in less than 2 hours if I had the necessary screwdriver.Did I notice any improvement? Heck yeah! The steering is now so tight and precise it drives like a new car!

It's been a year and they are still working well

Fit and function is good.

Decent quality, the only reason for 4 stars is that the boots on the outer ends aren’t actually attached to the body of the tie rod end and one of the included metal bands for the bellows was broken in the box.A positive is the included zerk fittings so you can add grease as it leaves the ball jointInstalled easily on my 94 Camry station wagon

Feels like it will last, wasn’t a struggle to put them on. Fit my 1999 Camry Le perfectly.

Installed on 2000 Toyota Camry LE and ride, steering greatly improved. Nice fit, easy install. I ordered several times from Detroit Axle and am happy with the quality of all their parts.

The quality of the product was never in question its not My First part or parts. I've Bought online from the seller the Cuztomer Service From My view She acted like once my payment went thru they don't try to accommodate the customer...

Complacido con la entrega y el artículo