10PCS USB 3.1 Type C Connector 24 Pins Male Female Plug Socket Receptacle Adapter to Solder Wire & Cable 24P PCB Board Support Module

After soldering some pins to the four pads and connecting them to my breadboard, the USB-A connection to the computer worked flawlessly with my project. However, when I tried using a USB-C to USB-C connection, power was supplied, but no communication occurred. Based on suggestions from Spica’s review, I soldered a connector wire from the underside pad to my breadboard, added a 5.1K resistor on the breadboard, and it worked perfectly. Given the difficulty of soldering the resistor directly onto the unit due to the limited space, I plan to keep it simple by extending the pad with a connector wire to the PCB pins and placing the resistor to ground on the final PCB board itself.

You have to have good soldering skills to make use of these as replacements for broken USB C ends. Other than that they word very well and are recognized by chargers and device. You do have to solder all 4 wires, both the two power wires, and the two data wires, to get it to charge. It does not have an internal shunt to allow charging without data being transmitted. The unit is tiny, so I want to reiterate, you need to be able to solder tiny things in order to make use of these parts.

I bought these for a charging cable repair. I now see they make a cover which I didn't buy at the time.

This review is for the receptacles (female). If you only use them with a USB A to C cable, they work just fine. But if you want to use them with a USB C to C cable, you need to solder a 0402 5.1k resistor. The solder pads are already there and A5 and B5 are already connected together, so only one resistor is needed which is convenient.

Este es un regalo para mi sobrino que necesito hacer cambio de entrada para un video juego

I purchased this board to convert a USB A device for use on a USB C port. I got it to work, but it took a more head scratching and work than I had anticipated.First issue: The resistor installed on the board is a ~51K pull-up resistor, which configures the USB C port it's plugged into to accept power. This means that you won't get power out of the port that you plug this into. I was expecting this issue but the board design made this more complicated than it needed to be. I removed the resistor, and added a 5.1K pull-down resistor between CC1 and Ground. I had to scrape off some soldermask on Ground to make this connection. After I made this change, the port delivered 5V to the board!Second issue: Despite having power to the board, none of the USB 2.0 devices I connected were working. I eventually figured out that I could get them to communicate if I connected USB- on one side of the board to USB- on the other side of the board, and the same with the USB+ pads. This connection could have been made on the board instead of forcing me to solder them manually.In short, I was using this board in a configuration that it is not intended, but should and could be easily configured to be used. I see a lot of people trying to do exactly what I was using these for and some pretty simple changes to this board layout would accommodate that.

so I'm using a atomic pi which only has 2 usb ports and 1 of them has to be a keyboard. so i split 1 usb + and - ports to 2 Arduino Nano with c connections. and i put a 6 pin switch for the D+ and D- lines. this allowed me to flick a switch and program each Arduino while both having power. and its always nice to have extra usb-C connections

If you're reading this: the female ports are probably not what you want. Noted by other reviews, these are configured to be host or upstream devices and not a sub or downstream device. I can't really think of a good use for these.