PC Products PC-Woody Wood Repair Epoxy Paste Kit with Mixing Tool, Two-Part 12 oz in Two Cans, Tan, 63320

PC-Products Wood Repair Epoxy Paste and Wood Hardener Kit is a wood rot remedy to use in order to avoid a major repair job. It is an easy enough product for a DIYer to use and work with. No real special tools are needed. The PC Woody paste is a 2 part epoxy (part A and part B) wood resin which has a chemical cleanup with acetone. The PC Petrifier is a liquid type glue which has a H2O cleanup with regular water. The hardened epoxy is easy to sand, by hand and using regular sandpaper. The epoxy doesn't sag very much and has a long enough working time, even in 85 degree sunny weather, when using it in small mixed batches. You fill holes, crevices and depressions with a glob of the epoxy but it will take longer for it to set up, dry and begin curing. You can build up the epoxy in layers, even after sanding it. It takes primer and paint well. The PC Petrifier is to be used after exposing the rotted wood area and cleaning out as much rot as you can reasonably do with out taking out everything or at least cleaning and prepping the area as if you were going to just be painting it--meaning, get it to reasonably sound and clean state which may involve sanding, removing the debris, then wiping down with isopropyl alcohol. The PC Petrifier is a liquid and the best way to apply it if it is not a flat horizontal surface is to paint it on with a small sponge brush from a disposable plastic cup. Be warned that it can get messy and dries like hardened glue to whatever it gets on so tape off the sounding areas and really tape off below the area with perhaps plastic sheeting overlaid with newspaper to soak up the drips and have a rag and bucket of water nearby toe wipe if necessary. The PC Petrifier will soak into the wood as much as the wood will take and then dries to a darker hardness. Here is what I used (and recommend to use) for repairing about 10 window sills on my house that had various degrees of weathering/aging conditions, the worst being on the south side: disposable gloves, multiple pairs; a rectangular 5"x8" or so piece of thick plastic or plexiglass that is smooth to mix the 2 part epoxy on and use as a pallette to apply the epoxy from; a 1 1/2" putty knife with the corners slightly eased or at least not sharp pointy to mix the epoxy, apply it to the surface and shape with; 2 popsicle sticks or a pint stir stick cut down to similar size,then clearly mark one A and the other B (for each of the epoxy parts); acetone, at least a quart to start; paper towels, lots; painter's blue tape, enough to tape off areas where you don't want epoxy to get on and may want to use paper in conjunction with the tape to cover more as needed; wax paper if filling crevices next to surfaces you don't want epoxy to get on and bond to; paper to tape off surrounding areas as needed, any paper but newspaper or painters paper work well; a small wood rasp, like Stanley tools small 8 inch that is shaped with flat side and a rounded side, each side is half rough and half finer for rapsing and can easily knock down the dried high edges and boogers left from applying the epoxy; sandpaper in 60/80 grits and 100/120 grits to smooth out the dried epoxy; and, acetone, or isopropyl alcohol to wipe the finished sanded surface. Things to remember about epoxy in 2 parts: READ the directions, watch some videos to see how people do it and suggestions, even the dumbs one, so you get an understanding of the product and what to do with it; the size of each epoxy container is going to be doubled in totality so 6 ounces of part A and 6 ounces of part B equals 12 ounces; it is better to get only as much as you think you need but always prepare to get a bit more; the PC Petrifier seems to go a long way in comparison to the epoxy but definitely use what the repair area can soak in; keep each epoxy container well marked, like a A on one lid and B on the other, and closed when not scooping some out; only take out small amounts of epoxy to mix at a time because it does start to get harder to work with in 20-30 minutes time and you can always mix more; when you measure the PC Woody epoxy parts for mixing, use one popsicle stick for only that container of epoxy and wipe it clean with a paper towel soaked in acetone after getting the epoxy part off the stick and set it aside then do the same with the other epoxy part--scoop, deposit, clean and set aside; mix thoroughly the two parts of epoxy for at least 30 seconds to 1 minute, it should like light brown like fluff-n-nutter/peanut butter mixed with marshmallow; smear on the mixed epoxy and smooth it out as much as possible--PC Products says you can smooth it out with acetone to minimize sanding later but I found it to be a little difficult to not make a bigger mess so using the putty knife and layering was better for me even if it took a little more time to get to the final sand; warmer air and direct sunlight cuts down the epoxy work time so you may have to move faster at applying it during certain times of the day/season; let the dry fully,which is 24-48 hours before sanding because it will gum up and ruin the epoxy layer you had put on and need repair; if doing multiple layers, perfecting the smoothness of the repair, and sanding in between, wipe the surface down with acetone or rubbing alcohol to remove the dust; use wax paper, not parchment paper, to stick between the areas where you are putting the epoxy and where you do not want to end up with epoxy (see photos 4 & 5 show where I had to fill in missing wood at the bottom of the sill but I did not want it to seal or get on the siding below); CLEAN your plastic palette and putty knife after each time you apply the epoxy with acetone and paper towel so that you take off any residue and refresh those surfaces--your tools will not get gummed up and you will be able to mix more epoxy without issues; and, take your time. Also, if you need to attach something to what you are repairing, PC Products make a 2 part epoxy adhesive in a syringe for that--it worked great, did not sag and held a 1/4" piece of wood good as I went nailed it. I have used the PC Woody Epoxy and PC Petrifier years ago and I think the repair made then, although on wood in direct contact with the gravel on the ground, is still holding up. I am banking on that what I accomplished with the window sills will be as effective or more so because I don't want to revisit this particular house maintenance issue again. I can definitely tell you NOT to use Bondo on wood as was recommended to me years ago because it does not hold up at all. Bondo is actually more difficult to work with in my opinion, too. I recommend PC Woody.

Works incredibly well! The peanut butter consistency is excellent for getting into crevices and it sticks well and stays in place even in a large area. It cured slower than I expected but the final result is hard and durable. Couldn’t be happier! It is a little difficult to mix up but because of the slower set time, there is no need to rush it. Just take your time to thoroughly mix it.

I used this to refurbish some old windows and it does a fantastic job. It is kind of like bondo, but without the horrible toxic smell. I found it to be a little sticky and tough to work with at first, but after letting it dry for a couple of hours, I can easily shape it. Sanding it is easy as well and I was able to get a really smooth finish.

I have ordered this item 4 times now for various projects. This stuff is strong, cures solid, and adheres well even in "thick" sections since it is a 2 part epoxy (in contrast to some DAP wood filler I tried, which didn't cure when in thick sections, was not sticking well). I used this outdoors to repair termite damage and damage from dry rot on doors and window frames. Note, it is pretty messy to work with because it is so thick and sticky, and starts curing after a few minutes. I ended up putting it on and not worrying too much about uneven surfaces, and doing LOTS of sanding. I also found that if I used some sturdy plastic packaging to make "forms" for edges and corners, and applied those "forms" onto areas where I had applied the PC Woody, the forms would come off easily after curing a day and be close to the final shape. From there you either sand or fill more.I removed one star because two of my orders had issues. The first one, the cap on the white Part A jar had loosened, and the contents had started to dry out. A hard crust had formed on the top. It was still usable. The second issue was the bottom of the Part B jar had cracked. I used tape and plastic cling wrap to seal it up so it wouldn't leak or dry out. For the price, they really need to package it better. Lesson: check the bottles thoroughly when you first receive from Amazon, make sure they are not dried out, tightly capped, and the bottles are not damaged.

Saved me from having to replace a whole panel of fiberboard siding from water sprinkler damage. As an old man without a truck to haul siding and not enough strength to want to rip off and replace the whole board, this seemed like a good option. Used a styrene backer under the rotted edge and applied it per instructions. First the petrified, and then the next day the epoxy. There is a learning curve but for first time use I’m satisfied. To prevent droop, per the website, I used a support 1x2 wrapped in wax paper. Applied two layers, with two days I between. Sands well, and I then painted. No, it’s not a perfect job but you can’t tell the panel was damaged unless you know where to look. I was a little worried about the second layer as I didn’t do a perfect mixing ratio, as evident by color. But I gave it 3 days to cure and it’s hard and didn’t prevent sanding. Both products, the petrifier and the epoxy are very good. Next project is a window sill. There is no obnoxious smells and cleanup was easy with water for the petrifier brush and alcohol for the putty knife. The color is a light tan that is easy to hide with paint.