AbatronWoodEpox Kit - 2 Gallon - 2-Part Structural Epoxy Adhesive and Wood Hardener - Wood Filler Putty

Our house has cedar siding. We priced it out to replace cedar boards and it was crazy expensive. Decided to try this first. Works great. Had to get a solid stain to cover repairs but looks beautiful.

I use this for wood repairs all over the house. Works great. We have painted cedar shingle siding that develops rotted areas from water damage over time and I have used this many times for repairs. I sand it smooth and then paint over it. Excellent product.

This is a very good product, and a fantastic deal for this quantity (about 2 gallons by volume) for such a strong epoxy. It is a little different than other epoxies I've used. It is clearly strong enough for structural use, (this is not explicitly stated,but PSI endurance is obviously very high), and it is completely weatherproof, after a few hours, and becomes drill-able, sand-able, & paint-able.It's not exactly like other epoxies I've used: when you start to mix it, it is more like cake, so don't try to stir the ingredients together. It is best to place equal parts of each onto a piece if tin foil, and pick them up an repeatedly fold the two parts by hand, until the colors have blended completely. After blending, it will be like a firm putty, but a little too firm to "spread" like peanut-butter would. So it's better to form the shape you want in your hands, and press the shape into place. I suggest testing how it works with a golf-ball size test-sample to see how it cures and shapes.When you make your first batch, start with about the total size no larger then two hamburgers (a burger from each bucket). You can always add more as you go. Be advised that the mixing of the two parts generates its own chemical-heat (the directions mention this), and so thicker pieces generate and retain more heat, and therefore thicker cures quicker. Doctor's latex gloves would be fine. A trowel or spackle-knife didn't work very well for me, because it does not spread well. It is very good for vertical applications, because it will not slump the way softer putties might.A small con is that oil-base paint dries very slowly on it, (the directions mention this) and so the paint will dry but might never cure/harden optimally. You might try sanding to rough up the surface before applying oil-base paint, and do some trial-and error with your sample pieces to get a feel for how paint takes to it, if that is critical.Overall, I am very pleased with this, but like I said, it takes a little experience to get a feel for it. Definitely play with a small sample or two. It cures in a couple hours, so not a huge time-investment, to learn it, and worth it. If you are using this to repair rotted wood, buy their liquid wood product, and read all instructions carefully. This stuff saved me thousands, offsetting possible structural repairs in a complex application.

I was looking for something as an alternative to Apoxie Sculpt. This stuff, although expensive, is pound-for-pound more bang for your buck. I got as much use out of a 2-gallon kit of this (between $145-$175) as five 4-lb Apoxie Sculpts ($250).It's super lightweight and versatile, and unlike Apoxie this stuff can harden in as little as an hour or two, depending on the thickness of the piece. (Chemical reactions for the win!)Speaking of reactions, I don't use gloves at all. The most I've ever felt is something like a "dryness" to my hands--think chapped skin in winter--and a little itchiness. But it's all gone away with soap and water. I have eczema / sensitive skin, so . . . Just in case you want to be glove-free, there's that? (Please be careful, though!)Definite learning curve for sculpting. Has the consistency of modeling foam (i.e. Crayola Model Magic) when "wet", hardens solid, about as light as balsa wood. It doesn't "stick" to itself intuitively (whether "wet on wet" or "wet on dry"), but you can sweet-talk it (water helps smooth and meld the pieces).Wish I took in-process photos, but--I made this guy with WoodEpox and will absolutely come back for more!!ETA: Unfortunately, the price on this has gone up enough to make it out of my range. HOWEVER, I found something better. I highly recommend JB Weld's Premium Wood Epoxy Putty (searching for "JB Weld 40007" should get you there). It's exactly like this stuff but much more adhesive (no sweet-talking!), far less crumbly (this stuff makes a mess), and it only dries in ONE HOUR, unlike WoodEpox, which can take . . . a while . . . especially if your piece is thin. (Ironically thicker pieces cure more quickly.)Still, this stuff isn't bad, and I still recommend it if you need something soft / squishy to mush into holes in wood or something of that ilk. :)

I bought this to repair rot in my sills, fascia and trim where water seeped into the joints and soaked into the end grain of the wood causing damage over the years. After digging and scraping out the rotted wood I let it dry and applied liquidWood to all the affected surfaces before filling the voids with WoodEpox. I found it easier to slightly over fill the voids then sand to shape rather than under filling and adding more after it dries because of work ability issues, although it can be done. I also used isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle for my putty knife making it easier to tool the filler. The filler is light weight, dries hard and performs very similar to wood but won't swell shrink or crack according to Abatron. Seems like a solid product, only time will tell and I'll update accordingly. Oh, there's a lot of info and video on their website and Youtube.

I can't live without this stuff. It's so strong when cured and so easily to work with. Great for restoration of complex shapes and vertical and upside down surfaces. Expensive, but worth it when compared to other wood restoration products.

The Part A bucket is 90% unusable. It is one solid rock in the middle .